Can .30 Luger be made by necking down 9x19 cases?

You can do this but the real question is why would you want to?

I misread the question, my apologies. I was actually looking at doing exactly what you describe until I realized a new barrel and dies were not in the budget (yet).

Sorry miss read it.

The 30 Luger case length is longer than 9x19, 0.850" vs 0.754".

The case may stretch a bit once formed and it depends on whether the 30 Luger head spaces on the shoulder or the case mouth.

Also, you may need to thin the case neck as it would get thicker when reducing the case mouth from 9mm to 30 caliber. The thicker case neck may not fit the chamber.

RCBS sells 223 Remington to 30 Luger form dies but I'm not sure what all is included in the set. A search on the internet will turn up information.

I agree with cfullgraf in that 30 Luger cases made from 9mm Luger cases are going to wind up short. Also , I would suggest asking this question in the Handloading and Reloading forum. Those guys know their stuff.

I would go to the SAAMI site and print the case/chamber drawings for each cartridge. Then I'd sit down and compare critical dimensions; case head diameter, body diameter, rim diameter, case length, etc., to see if it was feasible. But my copy of Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions shows 30 Luger can be made from 9mm Winchester Magnum, trimmed, run through 30 Luger die and re-trimmed...

I certainly wouldn't shoot a semi-auto cartridge that is .096" short.

Chances are you could use a 223 case. Necked down and shortened.
Neck reamed to proper diameter. But case volume would be reduced.
What mdi has said makes more sense using a pistol case.

Or just order some from Starline, right length, right caliber, right headstamp.
https://www.starlinebrass.com/30-luger-brass

Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions syas to make 30 Luger from 9mm Win Mag. I haven't seen prices lately, but the Win Mag ain't cheap. 223 Rem is a possibility 1) depending on wall thickness and 2) if the smaller rim diameter works with your extractor. Best advice was given by @Jim Watson. Buy some new brass.

Absolutely will NOT work. 9mm made by cutting 30 Luger.

Midway has Star-Line brass for $22.99 / 100.

Jim Watson said:

Or just order some from Starline, right length, right caliber, right headstamp.
https://www.starlinebrass.com/30-luger-brass

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Yup, it's the solution I use! and they've lasted well.

Just order some Starline and get it over with. A bigger issue is going to be what bullets to use. The bore in my 1923 Commercial is over-sized, .312 plated 100 grainers work great, but everybody has stopped making them in the 100grn WGT. When my supply runs out I'm going to have to try some JHP .312s and the nose profiles don't look all that promising.

Bob Shell's blog on 30 Luger;
http://bobshellsblog.blogspot.com/2010/10/30-luger.html

PO2Hammer said:

Bob Shell's blog on 30 Luger;
http://bobshellsblog.blogspot.com/2010/10/30-luger.html

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Excellent! THANKS!

IF he got the 71's to shoot I can no doubt get the .312 71 grain plated's to work!

Out of stock at the moment but
Target Sports USA has
https://www.targetsportsusa.com/prvi-partizan-30-luger-ammo-93-grain-fmj-pph765p-p-81660.aspx
For $18 for 50, posible brass donor
I have had decent luck with Prive brass not Starline but not bad

jaguarxk120 said:

Chances are you could use a 223 case. Necked down and shortened.

Click to expand...

Definitely can!
I do this for 7.62x25

Take 223 case
Mark @ 1"
Using a pipe cutter I cut to 1" mark.
From there I reform in a 7.62x25 resizing die,
cut to .980" - this will be different for 30 Luger
reload as normal.

I seem to recall someone using a little Harbor Freight Chop saw to cut brass with a jig.
Can't remember which one but maybe something like this
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html


Might be faster than a pipe cutter if you want to do a bunch.

What about using 300 blackout case's, just resize and trim.
I pick them up all the time at the range when I'm there.

jaguarxk120 said:

What about using 300 blackout case's, just resize and trim.
I pick them up all the time at the range when I'm there.

Click to expand...

If ya don't need/want those 300 Blackout brass I'll gladly take them off your hands.

Texas10mm said:

If ya don't need/want those 300 Blackout brass I'll gladly take them off your hands.

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Agreed. I make 300 BO from 223 brass.

Jim Watson said:

Or just order some from Starline, right length, right caliber, right headstamp.
https://www.starlinebrass.com/30-luger-brass

Click to expand...

Yep, a far, far better solution. .30 Luger has been my toughest reloading nut to crack...thin case necks on R-P brass, make it tough to get a crimp strong enough to withstand cycling through a 1920 Luger feed cycle. And ya gotta be careful of setting the shoulder back which will end up as a headspace problem.

New cases were the toughest to get a decent crimp on. As the number of reloads increased,(another problem as my Lluger pitched them half way to Heaven), the crimp improved as the case hardened....Losing the brass was and is a major problem on my home/farm range.

Too, jacketed bullets at 93 grains with a canelure are hard to find and the smooth ones will telescope into the case. I've had good luck with Hornady's .32 cal swagged 90 grains LSWC's; crimping into the soft lead. Also had luck with Hornady's old JHP's at 85 grains...haven't tried the newer XTP's.

The Luger is a strong action and often takes high end loads to get feeding issues put to rest. So I needed a fairly strong load to work the action.

Accuracy, however, even with some cast bullets and the aforementioned Hornady swagged ones, was very good. Like 1.2 - 1.5 inches at 30 yds from a seated, gun held between the knees, position. The sights are abominable, a 'barley corn front' and a shallow notch rear, but the accuracy's there....and then there's the trigger....more like a breaking rubber band than any thing else...kind of like a Glock's.

YMMv & HTH's, Rod