Crickett vs Henry Mini Bolt

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Dan Forrester

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Any thoughts on the Cricket .22 rifle vs the Henry Mini Bolt? I’m looking to purchase one or the other for my 5 year old boy.

The Henry is better quality from what I read. It’s also 100% stainless which is worth it to me living in Florida. Weight is also an extra 3/4 pound. I don’t like the manual thumb safety however.

The Crickett has no manual safety which is nice. It also looks like you can purchase adult size stocks for the gun. I don’t like the internal keyed lock but from what I’ve heard the newer models don’t have this. Can anyone confirm? I have also read the build quality in these firearms is not that great.

What does THR think?

Thanks,

Dan
 
I the crickett, they installed an action lock on the bottom of the stock which goes up into the action stopping the bolt from moving forward. It is in a terrible spot and is very easy to accidentally engage the lock. The only thing the crickett has going for it is that it’s super simple, cheap, and plentiful.
 
I bought a Mini-bolt on a whim about 20 years ago and really like it. Build quality is excellent, as is safety with both manual cocking and sliding lever. When their adult-sized version (the Accubolt) was available, I bought a spare Accubolt stock from Henry and had a gunsmith put a second dovetail under the barrel to use either stock.

It makes an extremely light and rugged coup-de-gras gun for possums trapped in our neighborhood: short enough to conceal under a coat and very quiet with CB ammo.

Henry Mini-Bolt.jpg
 
Well after reading both of your responses I’ll be going with the mini bolt! It’s always nice to hear feedback from owners.

too bad that accu bolt stock wasn’t still available. Looks like they D/C that model back in 2010.

Thank you both for your responses.

Dan
 
I picked up a light blue cricket a few weeks ago for 20 dollars at a yardsale. Just before all this lunacy.
I plink at the 200 yds steel with the passable aperture sights on her. I haven't seen a lock on her and I'm looking into mounting a cheap red dot on her for the giggles.

Best 20 spent recently.
 
Go with the Henry. Cricket is ok. The front sight on my daughters is canted. It's worth what I paid I guess. $100.00
 
@Dan Forrester - I apologize for writing a wall of text here, but please do read and consider the advice below. These rifles seem like a great idea up front, but really aren’t.

Having owned a several of these rifles in the past for use in beginner rifle classes and 1 on 1 instruction, I recommend you don’t waste your money on either. I made a group buy with a few other instructors in 2003 to end up with a half dozen of them, and I have bought onsie-twosie here and there over the years as student’s parents have bought rifles from or through me. I have wasted thousands of dollars on these rifles in the past, and would never do so again, so learn from my mistakes.

First: a 5yr old child will have around 8.5-9” length of pull, whereas these “mini” models like the Rascal, Crickett, and Henry Mini are 11.25”-11.5” (Crickett shorter than the other two). Most kids won’t truly grow to an 11.25-11.5” LOP until about 12yrs of age, at which point, it’s a failure of personal discipline if a 12yr old kid really needs to be handcuffed by a (poorly balanced) single shot rifle. Kids at that age also tend to grow fast enough that the rifle really doesn’t fit them well within a year or so. And what becomes of the rifle when the kid outgrows an undersized, under-featured single shot? It gets stuck in the back of the safe and the kid gets a new rifle, rather than continuing to grow memories and skills with the same rifle they’ve used for years.

Second: Probably most importantly, at its core, the entire premise of “start them on a single shot,” is a logical fallacy. Mechanisms might prevent the consequence of lacking discipline, but they do not actually promote responsibility or discipline. If a kid isn’t mentally mature enough to follow instruction or isn’t sufficiently disciplined to have appropriate trigger control, they’re not ready to shoot any rifle. The same lacking-discipline which would drive a child (or adult) to recklessly rapid fire a semi-auto will drive them to also pull the trigger on a poor sight picture or alignment, yielding poorer groups than they’d otherwise be capable. Teach a child the appropriate discipline and they will be able to manage any action (for example, I started my son on a semi-auto 22LR Marlin 60 when he was 2 years old, and my niece when she was 3 - and many other children from 4-5 yrs old).

Third: Most of these feature poor sights, poor triggers. And poor balance. Some have gotten better in recent years, incorporating accommodations for scope mounts, but many do not.

Fourth: they’re priced far too high for their features. These rifles are typically priced slightly below other standard models, but are featured far below the price point. For their limited utility and such short duration of actual fit to the child, it’s a poor investment.

The best advice I can give is to buy a bolt action or semiauto “Forever rifle” in a common model like a Marlin 60, Ruger 10/22, Savage Mark II, etc. Take-off stocks are available for $30-50, or aftermarket stocks are readily available (and I find kids LOVE picking their own rifle stock color, and do a better job of identifying with the rifle and carry better interest in practicing when they can personalize it). Cut one stock down now to 8.5-9” LOP, then replace it later with one 10-11.5” at 10-12yrs of age, and eventually, a full length stock (~13.5-13.65, typically). The rifle will retain utility throughout the child’s life, fully featured, rather than being outgrown so quickly and relatively discarded.
 
LOL, when don't you write a wall. But as usual you do make sense and offer good advice and I appreciate it. For very beginners I have a Daisy 22 LR. with and adjustable stock. It is too flimsy for anything but limited range use. Too bad they don't make similar and better stocks for 22 LR actions or an AR type stock.
 
LOL, when don't you write a wall. But as usual you do make sense and offer good advice and I appreciate it. For very beginners I have a Daisy 22 LR. with and adjustable stock. It is too flimsy for anything but limited range use. Too bad they don't make similar and better stocks for 22 LR actions or an AR type stock.
Ruger made a 10/22 with AR style stock, but it was too heavy for a youngster.
 
@Dan Forrester - I apologize for writing a wall of text here, but please do read and consider the advice below. These rifles seem like a great idea up front, but really aren’t.

Having owned a several of these rifles in the past for use in beginner rifle classes and 1 on 1 instruction, I recommend you don’t waste your money on either. I made a group buy with a few other instructors in 2003 to end up with a half dozen of them, and I have bought onsie-twosie here and there over the years as student’s parents have bought rifles from or through me. I have wasted thousands of dollars on these rifles in the past, and would never do so again, so learn from my mistakes.

First: a 5yr old child will have around 8.5-9” length of pull, whereas these “mini” models like the Rascal, Crickett, and Henry Mini are 11.25”-11.5” (Crickett shorter than the other two). Most kids won’t truly grow to an 11.25-11.5” LOP until about 12yrs of age, at which point, it’s a failure of personal discipline if a 12yr old kid really needs to be handcuffed by a (poorly balanced) single shot rifle. Kids at that age also tend to grow fast enough that the rifle really doesn’t fit them well within a year or so. And what becomes of the rifle when the kid outgrows an undersized, under-featured single shot? It gets stuck in the back of the safe and the kid gets a new rifle, rather than continuing to grow memories and skills with the same rifle they’ve used for years.

Second: Probably most importantly, at its core, the entire premise of “start them on a single shot,” is a logical fallacy. Mechanisms might prevent the consequence of lacking discipline, but they do not actually promote responsibility or discipline. If a kid isn’t mentally mature enough to follow instruction or isn’t sufficiently disciplined to have appropriate trigger control, they’re not ready to shoot any rifle. The same lacking-discipline which would drive a child (or adult) to recklessly rapid fire a semi-auto will drive them to also pull the trigger on a poor sight picture or alignment, yielding poorer groups than they’d otherwise be capable. Teach a child the appropriate discipline and they will be able to manage any action (for example, I started my son on a semi-auto 22LR Marlin 60 when he was 2 years old, and my niece when she was 3 - and many other children from 4-5 yrs old).

Third: Most of these feature poor sights, poor triggers. And poor balance. Some have gotten better in recent years, incorporating accommodations for scope mounts, but many do not.

Fourth: they’re priced far too high for their features. These rifles are typically priced slightly below other standard models, but are featured far below the price point. For their limited utility and such short duration of actual fit to the child, it’s a poor investment.

The best advice I can give is to buy a bolt action or semiauto “Forever rifle” in a common model like a Marlin 60, Ruger 10/22, Savage Mark II, etc. Take-off stocks are available for $30-50, or aftermarket stocks are readily available (and I find kids LOVE picking their own rifle stock color, and do a better job of identifying with the rifle and carry better interest in practicing when they can personalize it). Cut one stock down now to 8.5-9” LOP, then replace it later with one 10-11.5” at 10-12yrs of age, and eventually, a full length stock (~13.5-13.65, typically). The rifle will retain utility throughout the child’s life, fully featured, rather than being outgrown so quickly and relatively discarded.

Thank you for the wall of text! I’m at about the same place as the OP regarding guns for my own kids, and definitely appreciate the chance to learn from the mistakes of others.
 
A buddy of mine , keeps a cricket strapped to his four wheeler.. he has killed several coyotes and wild dogs , ground hogs , on his mountain ( yep mountain) .. it rusty , beat up .. but its a tool ..
 
Convenient coincidence today. Short Action Precision shared a video today of a young girl shooting one of these rifles. You can see that the stock is far too long for her natural LOP, such she has to throw her arm unnaturally on top of the comb, then crane her neck down to align with the sight (kudos to them for using a red dot, of course). No insult intended, of course, to SAP, the dad, or the little girl, but this demonstrates the poor fit of a ~11.5” LOP for kids in the 4-5ish age bracket. Similarly, consider how uncomfortably and unnaturally she’d be reaching if she had the rifle shouldered properly , placing the trigger that much farther out of reach.

FB124311-8A92-472C-92AD-F539EC308F4F.jpeg

Alternatively, here’s my son two years ago shooting a cut down 8” (or 8.5”, I forget?) LOP stock with a built up cheek riser. No concessions for poor position (other than a little excess trigger reach for his short fingers on the pistol grip). Much easier getting into appropriate position and focusing on fundamental techniques instead of fighting a poorly fit rifle to get comfortable in uncomfortable position. Rifle shouldered, solid, repeatable cheekweld, natural/comfortable bend to the arm - gotta fix his stance behind the sticks a little (much better now), but otherwise, the upper body position is far better. All because I took one pass with a radial arm saw across the stock, then stuck a chunk of foam rubber on top of the comb.

D5354A83-C460-484A-950F-99554EA1D1B2.jpeg
 
Savage also has the Rascal, which is in the same vein as the Cricket and Henry. Don't know much about it, but probably will look into it as a possibility for my little guy's first rifle (it'll be awhile, he's 2 years old).
 
Hi Varminterror, I really appreciate all the advice in your post. You made a pretty compelling argument.

I never thought about the 10/22. That was the first gun I ever fired back when I was 12. It was originally my fathers gun, and then became mine when he passed away and would be great for my son to use as his first gun. I could easily pick up some old wooden stocks on Gunbroker. I really like the idea that his first gun could also be the first gun I fired as well as his grandfather’s. I guess that thought never occurred to me until you mentioned it.

As of yet my son has never fired a gun but has handled pretty much every gun I own. He absolutely loves the guns and watching me shoot. I have thought him everything about safety which he knows very well at this point and I thought it would be really fun to let him start pulling the trigger on a well rested gun.

Are there any good tutorials you know about for properly measuring and cutting down stocks? Sounds like it would be a fun project I could do with him.

Thanks,

Dan
 
I really like the idea that his first gun could also be the first gun I fired as well as his grandfather’s.

I really like that idea too.

My son’s first firearm is a Marlin 60 of his own, but his first shotgun is an Iver Johnson Champion 410. It was my grandfather’s dove gun, then my father’s and mine - now his. Unlike finding stocks for a 10/22 or 60, the Champion stock took me a couple years to locate, and cost more than the little single shot would be worth. BUT! Instead of waiting until he grows into a 14 1/4” LOP, the replacement stock means he can grow up shooting NOW.

Are there any good tutorials you know about for properly measuring and cutting down stocks? Sounds like it would be a fun project I could do with him.

Put the kid’s hand in a conventional shooting position, bend the elbow to 90 degrees, and measure from the elbow to the pad of the trigger finger. Below is a trick I use to get the hand in the right position to make the measurement more reliable. Need a hammer and a playing die (dice).

• Have him hold a hammer handle in his hand, upside down, end of handle even with the top of the middle finger, head hanging down from the pinky side
• Place his thumb across the end of the hammer, flat so the tip touches the crease of the knuckle
• Set a playing Die (dice) on the knuckle of his middle finger against the tip of his thumb, and have him hold it in place with his index finger, gently pinching between the pad of the index and tip of his thumb - finger is bent at ~90 degrees such the pad just kissing the die
• Bend his arm to ~90 degrees
• Adduct his wrist so the top line of his thumb is flat with the top line of the forearm (tilt hand towards pinky until the thumb is straight in line with radius)
• Measure from the crease of the elbow to the pad of the index finger

For a rifle, that’s their approximate fit. For a shotgun, adding a half to a full inch to that measurement is about right for most people, kids included. Unless he’s super tall, at 5, he’s likely around 8.5-9.5”.
 
@Dan Forrester - I’m sorry, man, I only mentioned how to measure for fit, not how to measure and make the cut...

The measuring part is pretty simple. Measure from the trigger to the butt edge, perpendicular to the butt. That should coincide to the published LOP for the stock. Subtract the measurement of your child’s arm from that measured LOP of the factory stock - that’s how much must be cut off. Measure from the butt edge perpendicularly forward in multiple locations. Either wrap a tape measure around the stock along those marks, or use a contour gage along the marks to scribe a full length line. I score around this line to help prevent surface chipping during the final cut.

For the cut itself, you have options. A bread saw in a miter box works, as does a radial arm saw or band saw. How you hold the stock is what makes a big difference. I’ve built jigs which screw to the buttstock from the end side, holding the jig flat on the table (90 degree jig, screwed to the end of the buttstock. I’ve also simply wrapped tape around the wrist of the stock to level/square the butt to the workbench, then used the power tools for the cut. Options you have, depending upon which tools you have. Fine toothed blades, moving slowly and steadily.
 
Thank you for all the info Varminterror! I’ve got off the next few days so I’m going to start tracking down some old wooden 10/22 stocks.

Thanks again,

Dan
 
I've started both of my oldest kids on semi-auto's with red dots when they were 5 and 4, respectively. The consensus on forums like this typically says do the opposite, but I'd rather "hook" them by just letting them have fun and making it easy and then teach them to use irons and bolt actions later. I've found that once they get the basics of shooting its an easy transition to learn the rest. I've used my SIG 522 with the stock all the way in just because it's the best I had but Varminterror has me thinking about trying to buy a second stock for my 10/22 or Marlin 60 now.
 
Varminterror writes:

..they’re priced far too high for their features. These rifles are typically priced slightly below other standard models, but are featured far below the price point. For their limited utility and such short duration of actual fit to the child, it’s a poor investment.

I agree. I bought a Crickett and a Mossberg 720 both at the same time. The Mossberg, an amazing value in a lightweight, reliable rifle, was $20 less.
 
For others buying youth rifles, I’ll offer the following sight for consideration. This isn’t a top of the line, Mil-spec, 2,000 yard capable optic, but it does have a semi-unique combination of features which works exceptionally well for training kids into rifle shooting. I had used red dots for kids for many years, and had bolted on independent lasers to allow me to watch their hold on target, but I found this sight about 7 years ago and find it to be a perfect concession of low cost and integral features.

The Sightmark Dual-Shot integrates a red dot & laser sight together in one unit. Regardless of brand, this combination is fantastic for anyone training kids. First, red dots are, bar none, the easiest sights to learn to use. No sensitivity to eye position, no multiplanar alignment, just put the dot - or the circle or the cross - on the target and squeeze the trigger. Kids can focus on other fundamentals of marksmanship before tackling what might be more difficult eye alignment in a scope, or more difficult sight alignment AND eye alignment behind irons. Hand in hand, the instructor can watch the shooter’s hold on target with the laser sight, advising both to ensure they’re on target at all, but also observe trigger stroke stability (slapping, jerking, flinching, punching) while still observing the target. I can tell instantly if my students are missing because of poor trigger control or because they simply didn’t shoot at the target. With kids, I put EXTREME importance on being able to determine when/if a kid is simply pulling the trigger to make noise (one warning, then session is over), or honestly attempting to hit the target.

2403E91D-C1F3-41AF-8EC5-00B7E7FF3883.jpeg

Also, for Marlins with integral 3/8” dovetails, there are multiple options to adapt to a picatinny based optic, but many are rather tall, and are oversized for mounting a red dot sight. Leaper’s/UTG make a simple adapter which I have found works very well. Again, not a super-grade, high cost, precision or military grade item, but my son has beat the hell out of his Marlin with this mount, and we haven’t seen any zero shift.

A1F91932-8312-498F-A55C-4E2C9C729232.jpeg

The combination of a “proper rifle” with a cut down stock and this integral RDS+laser are what I consider perfect for training young kids into firearms.
 
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