Barrel joining on Stevens 311 and derivative models

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BBBBill

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Anyone know if they are soft soldered, silver soldered, or welded together? I have one with a troublesome dent on the top left side (about 10 o'clock) on the left barrel that will not come out with my hydraulic dent raiser. Thinking of applying some localized heat using heat control pasted to keep as much as possible away from the mating area. Still need to plan for any possible surprises or other necessary steps.
 
I do believe that those are soft soldered, quick test is to take a pointy thing and scrape between the rib and barrel,if it brings up a shiny silver like curl it's soft soldered. I would probably treat it like it's soft soldered anyway just to be sure. Is there a way to maybe add a thick pad to your dent raiser shoe and get a better push with it?
 
I have a Ranger O/U which was gifted to me. Pretty sure it was a Sears model back then, and was most likely made by Stevens. I looked at the muzzle end and the two barrels are joined by a silver-bearing soft solder. (I know how to tell because I made surgical instruments with many solders/brazes. Scratch test, essentially.) The solder is covered by a couple of thin steel "gussets" which are blued, so that the solder is not visible except at the very end of the barrels. Regarding the dents, this one had a dent on the upper barrel (you don't want to know how it got there) before I got the gun, so I made an expanding dent remover (mechanical) and using light hammer taps was able to remove the dent, over some time. I gave away the dent remover to someone on this forum (I think in 2015). No heat of any kind involved. Just a fair amount of time and caution with a light brass-faced ball-pien hammer. I'll try to post a pic of the barrels' muzzle end if my short-term memory doesn't fail me.
 
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beag_nut, good procedure, but I have the uber expensive English made hydraulic dent raiser that should get the jo done. It's worked for me many times before, just not this time. I used a hammer with the dent raiser with no luck.
jackrabbit1957, I tried the shim already. The problem seems to be the extra thick barrel tubes and their hardness compared to other shotgun barrel that I have worked on.
If the solder is silver bearing then chances of success without having to re-solder are better than if it is soft solder. I will investigate a little further.
 
beag_nut, good procedure, but I have the uber expensive English made hydraulic dent raiser that should get the job done. It's worked for me many times before, just not this time. I used a hammer with the dent raiser with no luck.

jackrabbit1957, I tried the shim already. The problem seems to be the extra thick barrel tubes and their hardness compared to other shotgun barrel that I have worked on.

If the solder is silver bearing then chances of success without having to re-solder are better than if it is soft solder. I will investigate a little further.
 
BBBBill, if you used the tapping technique with the hydraulic dent raiser, that may be why it didn't work; The tapping simply was passed onto other metal without doing anything, because it (the dent raiser) is hydraulic, and distributes the forces. The expanding mechanical dent raiser I used (made) doesn't allow the forces to dissipate. I could see my progress as I went along, tapping. But eventually you'll get it done, hopefully without any heat. I really considered the hydraulic dent raiser, despite the cost, then thought, WTH, I'll try the homemade mechanical one instead first. And it worked.
 
if you used the tapping technique with the hydraulic dent raiser, that may be why it didn't work; The tapping simply was passed onto other metal without doing anything, because it (the dent raiser) is hydraulic, and distributes the forces.

You may have a point there. I'll cogitate on that a bit. My lathe is inoperative right now, so no way to turn a dent raiser. May look for a rental, although I expect most will have the hydraulic ones these days. I will probably call Brownell's tech support, too.
 
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