Reloaded shells are more black...normal?

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Look in every case when placing the bullet!!! You will never have a squib again from lack of powder.

Or worse, a double charge.

Slow down and
LOOK IN EVERY CASE!!!

Yup.

Sounds like you solved the problem, Ironwill1406. Use the light and inspect every case! Weigh one out beforehand of every different load you do, eventually you will know what that load looks like in the case. Stay safe.
 
I would reiterate the concern about a squib. I shoot a revolver and a squib will not stop the action. The next shot will go right into the back of the bore obstruction. A semi-automatic pistol's action is not guaranteed to stop either and you can have a dangerous situation. I have reloaded something like ten thousand in the last couple years and had one squib when I first started using wet tumbling and did not fully appreciate the need for the primer pockets to be completely dry. I had to set aside 100 cartridges to have the bullets pulled. After that, I took concrete steps to prevent a recurrence. First, I don't rush cases from the wet tumbler to the press. I let them dry for at least a day. There's lots of good drying techniques, but that's getting off-topic. The reason I was rushing it was because I simply didn't have enough cases. I bought 500 or 1000 more. I also tumble the cases in dry media before I use them. This further assures that they're dry and it has some other benefits as well.

You didn't mention the type of press you're using, but from your description it would seem to be some kind of progressive press. I use a Lee Auto Breech Lock Pro and the Lee Auto Drum powder measure, so that is what I'm familiar with. I get good results with the Auto Drum, but I had to remove the screw that is installed by the factory that makes it so the user has to press the button before every powder charge. I did not want to forget to press the button, so I took the screw out and it throws a charge every time a case is inserted.

To catch no-powder and double-powder conditions, I use an RCBS Powder Checker die. I prefer this to the Hornady Powder Cop because it stops the press from continuing when conditions are wrong. I still visually inspect every case before I place the bullet with my fingers to be seated. I have a bullet feeder, but I don't currently use it. I found the case feeder is a better time saver.

One reason for black, sooty cases not mentioned yet is the primers. I find different primers produce different amounts of soot. Since you're comparing your handloads with CCI primers to factory loads that probably have a different primer, that could be part of the explanation. I found CCI primers to be very sooty. Remington a little less so. I mostly use Fiocchi lead-free primers that produce almost no soot at all. The inside of the cases are still shiny brass color after firing. Since my comparison is made with the same powder and same charge weight, I conclude the primer can make a big difference.
 
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You may want to consider taking out the indexing rod on the turret to make it a single stage. That way you can become more familiar with reloading and really inspect each case and completed round. It will take more time, but I hope you are enjoying the reloading process and not just doing it due to an ammo shortage.

Stay safe!
 
Welcome to the wonderful, oft confusing and frustrating world of reloading!

The most important suggestion I see so far is "look in every case before you seat a bullet". I had a squib in 1971 and learned from that (no tools at the "range" and had to drive about an hour back home after only 8 shots). I have been reloading, off and on, since 1969 and I still look in every case I charge with powder, just a step in my reloading, no big deal at all. If you develop safety habits now, after only one OOPS! you will have a very good chance of not repeating a mistake. Another thought; When I started reloading I used a dipper with a scale and weighed every charge, and now for some reasons I still weigh every charge (load work ups, "hard to meter" powders and near max loads). I figger if I only weigh one out of 10 charges, I have a chance of 9 being wrong so I cut the checks to one out of five max, better odds. It's no disgrace to go slow and weigh every charge, unless you need more ammo now, quickly, right now, (if so I'd suggest buying factory ammo) it won't hurt anything to weigh more charges (or even every one until you develop good, consistent measuring methods).

I'm fortunate that I developed good, safe reloading "ethics" early and made them habit just like I learn shop safety in the 7th grade that has stayed with me for 60+ years, and I have had one squib and no Kabooms (and my "looking" has caught some potential disasters!).

Go slow. Double check everything. Most important have fun...
 
I always look into the case to make sure it has powder and not too much. I know it's a lot of extra work but worth doing. Having a squib with no powder or an over charge of powder can have serious consequences.
 
I would reiterate the concern about a squib. I shoot a revolver and a squib will not stop the action. The next shot will go right into the back of the bore obstruction. A semi-automatic pistol's action is not guaranteed to stop either and you can have a dangerous situation. I have reloaded something like ten thousand in the last couple years and had one squib when I first started using wet tumbling and did not fully appreciate the need for the primer pockets to be completely dry. I had to set aside 100 cartridges to have the bullets pulled. After that, I took concrete steps to prevent a recurrence. First, I don't rush cases from the wet tumbler to the press. I let them dry for at least a day. There's lots of good drying techniques, but that's getting off-topic. The reason I was rushing it was because I simply didn't have enough cases. I bought 500 or 1000 more. I also tumble the cases in dry media before I use them. This further assures that they're dry and it has some other benefits as well.

You didn't mention the type of press you're using, but from your description it would seem to be some kind of progressive press. I use a Lee Auto Breech Lock Pro and the Lee Auto Drum powder measure, so that is what I'm familiar with. I get good results with the Auto Drum, but I had to remove the screw that is installed by the factory that makes it so the user has to press the button before every powder charge. I did not want to forget to press the button, so I took the screw out and it throws a charge every time a case is inserted.

To catch no-powder and double-powder conditions, I use an RCBS Powder Checker die. I prefer this to the Hornady Powder Cop because it stops the press from continuing when conditions are wrong. I still visually inspect every case before I place the bullet with my fingers to be seated. I have a bullet feeder, but I don't currently use it. I found the case feeder is a better time saver.

One reason for black, sooty cases not mentioned yet is the primers. I find different primers produce different amounts of soot. Since you're comparing your handloads with CCI primers to factory loads that probably have a different primer, that could be part of the explanation. I found CCI primers to be very sooty. Remington a little less so. I mostly use Fiocchi lead-free primers that produce almost no soot at all. The inside of the cases are still shiny brass color after firing. Since my comparison is made with the same powder and same charge weight, I conclude the primer can make a big difference.
Hi,

Good feedback. I'm using a lee turret press with the auto drum powder measure. Lee carbide die set.
 
You may want to consider taking out the indexing rod on the turret to make it a single stage. That way you can become more familiar with reloading and really inspect each case and completed round. It will take more time, but I hope you are enjoying the reloading process and not just doing it due to an ammo shortage.

Stay safe!
Very much enjoy learning and eventually mastering the mechanics. I can buy the ammo but this seems to be a very satisfying and cathartic effort.
 
\
Standard practice when developing a load is to start 10% below suggested starting and “ladder” up from there, I’ll load 10 rounds each up to max and test those. Developing a load may take a hundred rounds or more and several trips to the range. Loading 300 below suggested starting, well some one was extremely optimistic....................
;)

Umm....no. It's a starting load for a reason. The 10% rule is for when you're only given ONE data point.

In fact your advice could be very dangerous with some powders in some loads. You NEVER reduce H110/W296 loads.
 
The correct term for a single projectile fired in a rifled barreled firearm is a cartridge.

No.
The PROJECTILE is a bullet. The Cartridge is the entire loaded round comprising case, powder, primer, and bullet.

I think the main cause(s) of sooty cases is used, reloaded cases. Even a maximum pressure load of a "clean" powder will black the brass more than the factory load did.

When you reload, the case has been fired, expanded in the chamber, partly sprung back, then resized, expanded, and the bullet seated. The brass has work hardened and does not put the neck tension on the bullet that the factory got with new brass. This affects powder burn. It does not seal the chamber as well, either, which will smoke up the outside.
Also, the factory seated its primer all the way to the bottom of a clean new pocket and gives better ignition than a hobby tool pushing a primer into a rough and dirty used pocket.

You can read of bullseye shooters using new brass for the 50 yard stage of an important match where consistency means better accuracy.
 
Everyone has the powder drop covered pretty well but I would ask are you sure that you cases were "completely" dry. If a little bit of water was still in the case it could easily cause ignition issues. Just one more process to think through. Best of luck moving forward.
 
Do you not remeasure as you go along to ensure that the pour has not changed?

I drop about 20 to get the measure set, then will check weigh some throughout the loading process to make sure everything is still good.
On thing to be aware of on a Lee turret is if you just to the powder drops without rotating the turret they will be lighter (most of the time) than if the turret rotates.

A semi-automatic pistol's action is not guaranteed to stop either
On all my semi auto pistols any load that is strong enough to insure function (eject and and chamber another round) is more than enough to get the bullet out the barrel.
Squibs are bad news, Had one when I first got my progressive, added a RCBS lockout die shortly there after.
 
Umm....no. It's a starting load for a reason. The 10% rule is for when you're only given ONE data point.

In fact your advice could be very dangerous with some powders in some loads. You NEVER reduce H110/W296 loads.
Your right of course, senior moment on my part using such a general statement.
 
Everyone has the powder drop covered pretty well but I would ask are you sure that you cases were "completely" dry. If a little bit of water was still in the case it could easily cause ignition issues. Just one more process to think through. Best of luck moving forward.
Hi, yes. I actually let them dry laying them all out on a towel in the garage fro 7 days before I loaded them.
 
So update to this post. I Made another 40 rounds today. I upped the load to 5.5 (5.3 is start, 5.9 is max). And the new light under the turret was HUGELY helpful. I could see inside every round and could see the powder each time.

Took those 40 to the range and the cases are much cleaner and needless to say, no squib issues. Will continue to visualize the charge in each round moving forward. Thanks for all the feedback! I have another question but will do a new post for that.
 
Good to hear that you appear to have solved the dirty brass issue.

Reloading have always been about attention to details for me. Take your time. Be safe. It's not about minimizing mistakes....it's about no mistakes at all!

Best wishes on your continued reloading journey!
 
No.
The PROJECTILE is a bullet. The Cartridge is the entire loaded round comprising case, powder, primer, and bullet.
I know that, Jim. I was trying to define it without using the word round to avoid further confusion. I think he's got it, though.




I shoot a revolver and a squib will not stop the action. The next shot will go right into the back of the bore obstruction.

Unless it stops right in between the cylinder and barrel. I had one of someone else's reloads do just that, in a rare moment of lapse of reason, shooting someone else's reloads. Really jams up a revolver well.
 
Final piece of advice. Whenever you stop, or whenever you are interrupted, remove every case from the turret, dump any powder in any cases and start fresh. Too easy to think you are paying attention when you are not.

P.S. You seem to be having fun and paying attention to detail. Yay! That and a notebook full of details about each load will carry you a long way.
 
To add a bit to scwaters fine suggestion; I will not do any charging and bullet seating if I cannot be sure that I will not be interrupted, I must be able to sit down, charge, and complete the rounds or I will not start. I batch load and I often process brass up to the charging step; size, prime and flare, and store. Then when I have a load in mind all I have to do is charge, seat a bullet and crimp. (as of today I have 180 9mm cases cleaned, sized, primed and flared in a Beer Nut jar and another two or three hundred assorted caliber cases waiting to be finished :p)
 
What sbwaters and mdl said is good advice. Dedicate time so that you are not interrupted no matter what type of press you are using.
 
Okay. I'll run a few through before my next batch. I also installed a halo light under the press as it's in my garage and the lighting was low. This should also allow me to visually identify if the powder does not drop.
Welcome to THR! This is an Excellent addition to your setup so you can see what you’re doing, and visually verify a powder throw before placing the bullet on the case. Lots of others have said it, and I second/third/forth it. The other tool I use, and perhaps your press won’t support it, is the RCBS lock out die that’s designed to stop a progressive press if it detects a powder deviation like none or 2x powder charge. It should not replace your eyes and brain, but it does add a layer of QC to the process. Good luck with the addiction!
 
edwardware is correct...

You need to reevaluate your process to make sure you don't have another squib, I'm not hammering on you, it's just the facts. FWIW, when I got my first powder drop, I struggled with it dropping consistent charges of Unique until it was seasoned enough; something to consider. Further, the 9mm is a high pressure cartridge... you need to pay particular attention to your loading process to ensure it is correct.

Indeed, the sooty cases are an indicator of a poorly burned charge.

It's not always an indicator of a poorly burned charge.

CFE Pistol is a slow burning powder. When I first started reloading with it I encountered the same issue (and still do). What apparently happens with a slow burning powder is that the case doesn't expand fast enough to seal up and you get some blow back onto the case. Supposedly it cleans up if you go up to max (or beyond). I didn't go to max or beyond and as folks informed me it's perfectly fine, you just have dirty cases.
 
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Another thing you can do (in addition to the many recommended things regarding lighting and visually inspecting for powder) while you are still gaining experience reloading is weight all your reloads. Cases and bullets will vary in weight, but generally speaking they are usually within a few grains. If you see one really high or really low you might want to just pull the bullet and check them.
 
Cases and bullets will vary in weight, but generally speaking they are usually within a few grains. If you see one really high or really low you might want to just pull the bullet and check them.

No point weighing pistol ammo when you have a powder charge of lets say for example 5 gr.
With mixed brass it won't do you any good.
Grab some mixed 9mm brass, weigh them, bet you have 5gr between the lightest and the heaviest.
Grab some brass that is all one flavor say FC. Weigh them.
Weigh some bullets, good bullet you may have 1gr between high and low, more with some bullets.

It's a free country and if you want to weigh loaded pistol ammo go for it, but I wouldn't trust it, and if you are going to weigh every cartridge then you might as well weigh every powder charge.....
 
Another thing you can do (in addition to the many recommended things regarding lighting and visually inspecting for powder) while you are still gaining experience reloading is weight all your reloads. Cases and bullets will vary in weight, but generally speaking they are usually within a few grains. If you see one really high or really low you might want to just pull the bullet and check them.

No point weighing pistol ammo when you have a powder charge of lets say for example 5 gr.
With mixed brass it won't do you any good.
Grab some mixed 9mm brass, weigh them, bet you have 5gr between the lightest and the heaviest.
Grab some brass that is all one flavor say FC. Weigh them.
Weigh some bullets, good bullet you may have 1gr between high and low, more with some bullets.

It's a free country and if you want to weigh loaded pistol ammo go for it, but I wouldn't trust it, and if you are going to weigh every cartridge then you might as well weigh every powder charge.....

Dudedog has it right. Unless you have weight sorted your bullets and brass you're going to have a bigger spread in the weight than what the powder charge is. Don't forget that the charge weight in many pistol cartridges is only a few grains.

For instance, my 45 ACP charge weight is under 4 grains with most of my powders, 3.6 grains with Clays, and barely above it with a couple of others. My 9mm charge weight is 4 grains with the powder I'm using.
 
Yeah, probably not worth it. I'm just not running a powder check because it was pulling powder out of my cases. I just like adding as many layers of safety as I can. I do eyeball every case after the powder die.
 
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