Help with Wingmaster stock removal

Well, there is one way that comes to mind.

A long drill bit that will reach down to the what is left of the screw head is the first thing you will need. 3/8-1/2” would be best probably.

Then a steel tube to act as a drill bushing. Ideally the Tube will be close in OD to the inside of the stock bolt hole And also close in ID to the drill bit used.

Then drill what’s left of the screw head off. Remove the stock and get some vise grips or something to remove the rest of the screw from the receiver.

Can you see into the hole well enough to get an idea of how much surface area is left of your screw?
Been a while since I'd messed with one, but was it just a smooth, rounded straight slot screw?

Looks kinda rough. Like earlthegoat2 said, you'll probably need to drill the head off it. Doesn't appear to be enough material to get an extractor to bite. He gave pretty good plans for how to do it.
Doubt the 2nd hole is for storage but could be. Someone smarter than me may have that answer.
If it were me, I'd leave the stock completely stock...Wingmasters and 1100's deserve to wear Walnut. And if you mess it up, then worry about removing it.

Heres a different idea. Leave the walnut and blued Wingmaster alone and go buy a Maverick88 or H&R Pardner with synthetic stocks already on them. Either is under 200.00 on sale. The Hogue stock set is around 80 bucks and IF you have to take it to a gunsmith you'll be spending pretty close to the same amount. I have a mid 70s Wingmaster whith the nice walnut and deep blue. I also have the Pardner as my home defense shotgun. It,s a great copy of the 870. Just my .02. Good luck

The second hole may be for a recoil reduction tube.

These are usually tubes filled with mercury. The heavy mercury tends to stay put as the gun recoils and this reduces the amount felt by the shooter.

As above, about the only way to get the stock off is drilling the head off.
The reason you MUST use some sort of guide tube or bushing is because the drill will wonder off center and come out the thin side of the stock.

This is also why you should at least wrap a bunch of tape around a screw driver just behind the end to prevent the driver from slipping off the slotted head and gouging out the side of the stock.

Try a striped nut removal tool. I you're lucky one will just fit over whats left of that screw head and let you get it out.

mcb said:

Try a striped nut removal tool. I your lucky one will just fit over whats left of that screw head and let you get it out.

View attachment 921361

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That's what I was originally thinking but doesn't look like there's much left to grip. OTH, if it bites enough to break the other half of the screw head, drilling would get a lot easier.

Sorry, this does not help you now....for the future consider

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ools/shotgun-buttstock-bolt-bits-prod967.aspx

You may wish to pull that bolt anyway, since the head is snapped off. Earlthegoat's advice is solid, but before you go with it, pull the bolt and trigger group from the receiver and direct some Kroil onto the stock bolt. Those threads may well be seized, the Kroil my help. Don't use too much, just few drops will do. Too much may stain that walnut.

Get the hex socket that fits. Plug half the opening ..epoxy the broken half into the end. Long extension.

dak0ta said:

Here’s a picture. Why is there a second hole routed in the stock? Is that for storage?

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The stocks were made for both the 870 and the 1100. the 870 uses the hole yours stock screw is in. The 1100 uses the other one. Trap shooters often filled the other hole with lead or a mercury recoil reducer to add weight and reduce recoil.

Pick up a universal socket from Home Depot that will fie in the butt stock.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gator-G...VkobACh3wHgwfEAQYASABEgIARvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

GunnyUSMC said:

Pick up a universal socket from Home Depot that will fie in the butt stock.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gator-G...VkobACh3wHgwfEAQYASABEgIARvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Click to expand...

AJumbo said:

You may wish to pull that bolt anyway, since the head is snapped off. Earlthegoat's advice is solid, but before you go with it, pull the bolt and trigger group from the receiver and direct some Kroil onto the stock bolt. Those threads may well be seized, the Kroil my help. Don't use too much, just few drops will do. Too much may stain that walnut.

Click to expand...

Both give solid advice. I would soak the bolt with Kroil and try one of the universal sockets. After that I would the try the tool that MCB recommended.

I would want to get that bolt removed and replaced before I fired that shotgun. If might be fine and hold but then again with my Irish luck, it would break the first time I shot it.

I would not use anything like Kroil or any other penetrate. It will soak into the wood and show up under the finish. Probably will lift it. You want to save the walnut stock. Last thing you need is thin oil soaking into the wood. It will make it dark or black.

The old screw will be a challenge for sure. Lots of good advice given here for something to get a bite on it. I have a roll of nickles or quarters in the second hole of mine to add weight to the rear. It's been so long I don't remember which coins are there now. IF you are ever successful removing the screw, I would go back with one that uses a hex head so a socket will remove it in the future. Just don't over tighten it and crack your buttstock. Good luck and let us know what you used to get it out

The extra hole IS NOT for an 1100. 1100s and 870s use the same stock bolt/recoil tube set up. They used to drill the hole deeper for a Wingmaster so you didn't need as long a bolt and saved a little weight.
I would use one of those stripped nut removal tools and get that bolt out of there. A drop of Kroil inside the receiver isn't going to stain the stock - sheesh.
When you put the new bolt in put some Blue Loctite on the threads.

Virginian said:

The extra hole IS NOT for an 1100. 1100s and 870s use the same stock bolt/recoil tube set up. They used to drill the hole deeper for a Wingmaster so you didn't need as long a bolt and saved a little weight.
I would use one of those stripped nut removal tools and get that bolt out of there. A drop of Kroil inside the receiver isn't going to stain the stock - sheesh.
When you put the new bolt in put some Blue Loctite on the threads.

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Wingmasters did not have a recoil tube in the stock, the 1100 does...................

The hole for the bolt or recoil tube is in the same place.

870s still use the slotted bolt head. 1100s switched from a round slotted nut to a hex tubing coupling some years ago.

12Bravo20 said:

Both give solid advice. I would soak the bolt with Kroil and try one of the universal sockets. After that I would the try the tool that MCB recommended.

I would want to get that bolt removed and replaced before I fired that shotgun. If might be fine and hold but then again with my Irish luck, it would break the first time I shot it.

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I doubt there'd be any issue using the shotgun as is. The bolt is still threaded in and the shoulder of the bolt is still where it's always been, just half the slotted head is now gone.