22LR Revolver choices

Frulk · Jul 6, 2020

gregp74.....I own 3 of the 4 guns mentioned in your original post. I would just point out that the GP100 is more than just a "little" bigger than the SP101. I've read quite a few comments from GP100 .22 owners that said they didn't enjoy shooting the diminutive round in a such a large platform. Overkill is what I think they meant.

All my SP101's had heavy triggers but that's easily remedied with a spring kit (even by a novice).

I much prefer shooting .22's out of single actions but that's not something you're interested in.

Have you considered one of H&R offerings? They're available for about $150-250 or so less than a new SP101. 9 Shot. The top break action is very convenient and somewhat unique. Frankly, I'm surprised that more makers don’t have this as an option in their .22 caliber line ups (might be a production cost/bottom line) issue.

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

Frulk said:
gregp74.....I own 3 of the 4 guns mentioned in your original post. I would just point out that the GP100 is more than just a "little" bigger than the SP101. I've read quite a few comments from GP100 .22 owners that said they didn't enjoy shooting the diminutive round in a such a large platform. Overkill is what I think they meant.

All my SP101's had heavy triggers but that's easily remedied with a spring kit (even by a novice).

I much prefer shooting .22's out of single actions but that's not something you're interested in.

Have you considered one of H&R offerings? They're available for about $150-250 or so less than a new SP101. 9 Shot. The top break action is very convenient and somewhat unique. Frankly, I'm surprised that not more makers have this option in their .22 caliber line ups (might be a production cost/bottom line) issue.

I've never looked at the H&R. That's interesting and different. I'll have to read up on those!

Frulk · Jul 6, 2020

Sorry... I should have pointed out they’re only available on the used market. H&R is no longer making them. They do show up in my area about once or twice a month on used gun sites. Gunbroker should have some listed to get an idea what they’re going for and what’s available.

aarondhgraham · Jul 6, 2020

The 4" Charter Arms Pathfinder is an okay little shooter,,,
It's very similar in size and style to a J-Frame S&W.

Very plain Jane in it's appearance,,,
Functions just fine.

You will want to paint the front sight though,,,
It tends to disappear in bright sunlight.

Aarond

.

sean m · Jul 6, 2020

gregp74 said:
That SP101 is still kind of on my list. Most of the reviews I've seen about that one are from like 2011 or 2012. From what I can gather they made some changes in 2015 but I don't have a whole lot of reliable information. Chances are I'll be shooting it single action most of the time.

I don't really want to go with anything smaller than the SP101. (I already have the 3" J frame S&W 63).

The improved SP101 has a 8 shot cylinder with fully adjustable sights and the early ones have a 6 shot cylinder with a windage adjustable rear sight. I had one of the early ones for a number of years and it was a good shooter but the full underlug barrel on the 4" was not at balanced as the the shorter underlug on the new ones. Probably won't see many of the old ones as they have been turned more into a collector's item and were never a popular cataloged item.
This it the old SP101

vs
the newer model

images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcT7uKU_PGcTjKmmAxGJ3wfBay1tTe1h6Y7gKQ&usqp=CAU.jpg

If you get one of the SP101's a set of Hogue grips or a set of the Pachmayr renegade grips really improves the balance as the give you a little more grip length.
I've prefer the Pachmayr myself.

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

sean m said:
If you get one of the SP101's a set of Hogue grips or a set of the Pachmayr renegade grips really improves the balance as the give you a little more grip length.
I've prefer the Pachmayr myself.

If I go that route I'd undoubtedly end up with a set of nice looking wood grips!

DDDWho · Jul 6, 2020

I paid $270 for this used Rossi Plinker a couple of years ago. I had to polish the cylinders making it easier to eject spent brass. I finally got it sighted in good enough to get close to what I’m looking at. After some heartache I finally made a keeper out of it.

Tallball · Jul 6, 2020

I have owned around ten 22lr revolvers in my life. Most of them had pretty bad triggers, including the SP101 and (surprisingly) the LCRx. I wasted a lot of time and money trying out bad 22 revolvers:

High Standard - one or two cylinders were always inaccurate
Rossi - same as above
Taurus - you needed strong fingers to shoot that thing DA
LCRx - same as above
Heritage - turned off by the weird safety, tiny sights, and plastic ejector rod knob
Tanfoglio - like a mini 1873, except much worse
H&R - A half a dozen people shot this thing and no one could get any accuracy

Only four of my 22 revolvers have been good:

The Charter Arms Pathfinder looks a little rough and cheap, but its DA and SA triggers are pretty good. Its functional accuracy for me is probably about the same as any other good-quality 22 revolver with 2" barrel and fixed sights.

The two Single Sixes I've owned have had good triggers, decent-sized adjustable sights, and have been very durable. They could both outshoot me easily.

The K22 puts most 22 revolvers to shame. It DA trigger is so smooth that it's almost as easy to shoot it that way as SA. The "pencil" barrel balances well. The sights are nice. It's one of my most accurate handguns.

I frankly should have bought a nice S&W K-frame 22 in the first place and not wasted my time with the other half-dozen or so that had stiff triggers and/or I couldn't hit a barn with them.

tallpaul · Jul 6, 2020

the smaller framed guns tend to b harder to shoot asaccurately as the larger framed models... the k frames tend to shoot great

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

tallpaul said:
the smaller framed guns tend to b harder to shoot asaccurately as the larger framed models... the k frames tend to shoot great

I think the stocks help too. I put the Altamont Battleurs on my little J frame 63 and I seem to do ok with it. (For plinking)

My K frame 66 combat magnum feels big even with those combat grips, but I am not used to holding it. I reckon if I get a 22 in the same size it's going to get a lot more use and I'll get accustomed to it. (I'm actually not sure I'm going to hold on to the model 66. I don't use it and I'm sure I could get a good price for it these days. And I could keep the grips to put on the 617 if I get that.)

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

I found a model 18-3 (what's the difference between -3 and -4?) made in 1974 which happens to be the same year as me. Price is good at under $700. Appears to be in good shape?

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/871216295

sparkyv · Jul 6, 2020

I absolutely agree. My M63 J-frame just doesn't fit right in my meaty clubs. The Pachmayr helps, but a M617 K-frame will probably be a better solution for me.

tallpaul said:
the smaller framed guns tend to b harder to shoot asaccurately as the larger framed models... the k frames tend to shoot great

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

sparkyv said:
I absolutely agree. My M63 J-frame just doesn't fit right in my meaty clubs. The Pachmayr helps, but a M617 K-frame will probably be a better solution for me.

I have the opposite problem I've got midget hands or something with short stubby fingers lol

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

I think I'm starting to gravitate to the K frames. The question now is do I go with an old model 18? Or a 4" 617. I really do dig that classic wood on blued steel look. On the other hand, even one in good shape is 40-50 years old (or older) and used.

J-Bar · Jul 6, 2020

gregp74 said:
I think I'm starting to gravitate to the K frames. The question now is do I go with an old model 18? Or a 4" 617. I really do dig that classic wood on blued steel look. On the other hand, even one in good shape is 40-50 years old (or older) and used.

My model 18-4 was made in 1981. I have shot it and cared for it for nearly forty years and it’s hardly broken in.

I double dog dare you to wear one out.

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

J-Bar said:
My model 18-4 was made in 1981. I have shot it and cared for it for nearly forty years and it’s hardly broken in.

I double dog dare you to wear one out.

One of the ones on my radar is a 1981 -4.

I really don't know much about them. Are there things that should be replaced just for safety's sake on something that old? I cringe buying used autoloaders and usually end up taking them apart and replacing springs, etc as a precautionary measure.

Also not sure about the sights on these. They appear to be all black. Not sure how good that's going to be for my old eyes lol. Can they be changed out?

J-Bar · Jul 6, 2020

I’m 76 with early cataracts and arthritis in my hands. My heart leaps with joy when I shoot that 18-4 as it came from the factory.

You are not going to improve it. Buy it and shoot the hell out of it.

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

J-Bar said:
I’m 76 with early cataracts and arthritis in my hands. My heart leaps with joy when I shoot that 18-4 as it came from the factory.

You are not going to improve it. Buy it and shoot the hell out of it.

Another question. What do I need to know about -2 vs -3 and -4 variations?

J-Bar · Jul 6, 2020

I’m sure the information about the model variations are out there somewhere. I am a shooter not a collector and am not concerned with those differences. If you find a Model 18 of any stripe that has been cared for at a reasonable price, buy it. It will likely be the most accurate revolver you own.

Driftwood Johnson · Jul 6, 2020

gregp74 said:
One of the ones on my radar is a 1981 -4.

I really don't know much about them. Are there things that should be replaced just for safety's sake on something that old? I cringe buying used autoloaders and usually end up taking them apart and replacing springs, etc as a precautionary measure.

Also not sure about the sights on these. They appear to be all black. Not sure how good that's going to be for my old eyes lol. Can they be changed out?

Sheesh. I have to laugh when guys think a revolver made in the 1980s is old.

My K-22 Combat Masterpiece left the factory in 1953. You can do the math. Four years before S&W changed over to the model number system.

I have replaced nothing. NADA. It shoots great.

I paid $800 for it a few years ago.

Yes, the sights are dark, dark blue. That's the way they made them back then.

I am 69 years old and I can see the sights fine.

gregp74 said:
Another question. What do I need to know about -2 vs -3 and -4 variations?

The K-22 Combat Masterpiece was what is called a S&W Five Screw revolver. In the top photo you can see there are 3 screws securing the side plate. There is one more screw hidden under the top of the grips. And there is one more screw in front of the trigger guard holding the bolt spring in place.

As time went by, S&W reduced the amount of screws as a cost savings measure.

In 1957 when the name was changed to Model 18, it was still a Five Screw revolver.

Model 18-1 (1959): Change extractor rod from right hand to left hand thread. (remember we talked about that with your Model 63?)
Model 18-2 (1961): Cylinder stop changed. Delete trigger guard screw. (Making it a four screw revolver)
Model 18-3 (1967): Relocation of rear sight leaf screw.
1968: Delete diamond grips. (the grips on the revolver pictured above have a diamond shaped area surrounding the grip screw that is uncheckered. That is what is meant by diamond grips.
Model 18-4 (1977): Gas ring moved from yoke to cylinder.
1982: Eliminate pinned barrel. (on my revolver you can see the pin in the frame near the barrel that prevents the barrel from unscrewing. At this time S&W changed the method of cutting the barrel threads so the barrel would not unscrew.)
1985: Model 18 discontinued and replaced by the Model 17 with 4" barrel.

Somewhere in there the screw up near the hammer was removed too. Probably with the -3.

The Model 17 dashes pretty much parallel the Model 18 dashes as far as changes are concerned up until the Model 18 was discontinued.

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

J-Bar said:
I’m sure the information about the model variations are out there somewhere. I am a shooter not a collector and am not concerned with those differences. If you find a Model 18 of any stripe that has been cared for at a reasonable price, buy it. It will likely be the most accurate revolver you own.

Well I've got a few questions for some sellers that I'm waiting on but I think I'm going to end up getting one of these. Sounds like I can't go wrong. Trying to decide just how much it looking really nice is worth $$$ wise vs having a few scratches or blemishes. I found one that the price is significantly less on. The pics look nice but I'm not sure. And he only takes certified checks no credit cards or anything.

cfullgraf · Jul 6, 2020

gregp74 said:
Another question. What do I need to know about -2 vs -3 and -4 variations?

I do not know what exactly was changed between the -2, -3, or -4 models but they generally are some internal engineering changes to the revolvers. The changes could be for reduction in production costs or they could be for some design improvements.

The revolvers still function the same.

Some of the changes in S&W revolvers are deemed less acceptable by some folks such as when S&W did away with pinned barrels on the K-frame revolvers. Revolvers with pinned barrels and cylinders recessed for cartridge rims are deemed better by many than the later non-pinned barrels and non-recessed chambered versions. The dash numbers changed when S&W implemented the non-pinned barrel and non-recessed chambers.

Get yourself a copy of the "Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson" guns and you can learn all the engineering changes of the full line of S&W guns.

I have an S&W Model 17-4 with a 6" barrel and a Model 17-3 with an 8-3/8" barrel. Except for the difference in barrel length, I can't tell any difference between the revolvers.

gregp74 · Jul 6, 2020

Driftwood Johnson said:
Sheesh. I have to laugh when guys think a revolver made in the 1980s is old.

My K-22 Combat Masterpiece left the factory in 1953. You can do the math. Four years before S&W changed over to the model number system.

I have replaced nothing. NADA. It shoots great.

I paid $800 for it a few years ago.

Yes, the sights are dark, dark blue. That's the way they made them back then.

I am 69 years old and I can see the sights fine.

Thanks Driftwood you've been a big help!

Most of the ones I'm looking at are -3s and one or two are -4.

The prices on gunbroker sure do vary. Seems like the sellers who have several of them are a lot more expensive, but not necessarily that much better looking. The guy selling the 1974 one has a buy it now price of $649 which is way way way below any others. It kind of worries me. And I'm annoyed by him only accepting certified checks. I want to pay online and get this process moving! There's another place with several for sale between 900-1200. Obviously I'd love one that looks like it just got delivered from the factory but I'm not sure I'm willing to fork over that kind of money.

I've got a couple emails out to sellers inquiring about a couple things. I can sleep on it and hear back tomorrow and make a decision. I'm about 90% sure I'm going to go with the model 18. There's still a small chance I could change my mind overnight and get the 4" 617 but that likelihood keeps going down.

tallpaul · Jul 7, 2020

sparkyv said:
I absolutely agree. My M63 J-frame just doesn't fit right in my meaty clubs. The Pachmayr helps, but a M617 K-frame will probably be a better solution for me.

I have a sp101 8 shor .22lr and the bigger grip n trigger springs help but the light weight with the higher trigger pulls that tend to be needed on the small frames compared to the k and gp sized DA's they do tend to move around a bit more for most
I have k frames n single sixes as far as 22 revolvers go

Ernie Bass · Jul 7, 2020

The LCR22 is my favorite Plinker/Trainer. Shoot it often and have been for years. One Tough gun. Shoot this snubby well and you will hone all your skills especially POINT AND SHOOT.

22LR Revolver choices

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