Bad load batch, my bad, and aftermath

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bangswitch

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I've been spending a lot of time at the loading bench lately, and I screwed up a batch of .357 Magnum loads from not paying full attention to what I was doing. I have a stack of storage bins I keep my ready-to load brass and bullets in. Everything is clearly marked, but I didn't look as closely as I should have when pulling out the bin with .357 bullets. I was planning to load 158 grain JHP (Hornady XTP), had my cases charged, and instead, pulled out the bin containing 125 grain XTP's. With the powder load I had charged the cases, 158's should have given me around 1300 fps. With 125's, though, it was off the low end of the scale, something like a mid power .38 Spl load. I had 50 of them finished before I realized my mistake. I load by the Hornady 10th Ed. manual, BTW. The powder was 300-MP.

Rather than tear down all the loads, I selected one at random, went to the lower end of the pasture with my M19 (4" barrel), single-loaded one round and fired it. It went bang, but there was hardly any recoil, a .38 Spl would have made more recoil. At any rate, the bullet cleared the barrel and hit the tree I aimed at, so I figured I could use these at the range and get rid of them.

Today, I went to the range, taking all three of my revolvers with me, and several boxes of ammo. I figured to get rid of these miss-loaded rounds using the M19. Loaded three, every other chamber, took aim at the steel hanging targets at 15 yards, and pulled the trigger single action. 1st round went Pfffft, and the gun was locked up. So, I put that box of ammo up, got out another I knew to be good, and took out the M28 and made some noise. I also had fun with the M57.

When I got home, I took the M19 and put a wooden dowel down the barrel and measured to see where the bullet was. It had almost made it through the B-C gap, and was lodged in the forcing cone with just enough of the bullet still in the cylinder to jam it. I've never had this happen, so I was at somewhat of a loss as to how to go about getting the bullet either back in the cylinder, or far enough into the barrel that I could get the cylinder open to get the two live rounds out and proceed with getting the bullet out of the barrel. I laid the pistol into my rifle sandbag, which has a long groove for the barrel. I took a plastic mechanic's mallet, tipped the gun down a bit, and smacked the muzzle a couple of good hits. This had the same effect as using a kinetic bullet puller, and the bullet lodged in the forcing cone was driven into the barrel far enough that I could open the cylinder, remove the two live rounds, and then clean out the partially-burned powder and remove the fired case. After that, it was a fairly simple matter of driving the stuck bullet backwards to the forcing cone by using the wooden dowel and mallet. No damage to the revolver, thank goodness.

So, I suppose I now have about 48 rounds of bad ammo to take apart and reload.

Note to self: pay better attention next time, it could have been much worse.
 
I bet it’s real easy to not tell stories like this due to Possible embarrassment. Others can learn from this. Thanks
Everybody screws up now and again. Hopefully we take a lesson from it. and when we screw up the next time, it won't be a repeated mistake. I've been reloading for ten years, have always tried to be very careful; this is my first big screw-up where I had to "fix" a firearm. I certainly don't want to repeat this one.

Next time (hopefully there won't be one) drive the bullet back into the chamber using the wooden rod and a mallet, rather than smacking the muzzle.

Been there, done that.
I tried driving the bullet back into the cylinder but had no luck. I only hit the dowel twice, then considered that I might do damage to the ejector and the lockup mechanism by forcing the cylinder backwards. A plastic mallet is designed to hit hard metal without damaging the metal; it deforms instead of what you hit. A gun barrel is a pretty tough piece of steel, so I figured trying to drive the bullet in the direction it normally moves would work better. It was mostly in the forcing cone anyway, so had less distance to travel to unblock the B/C gap and allow the cylinder to open.

After getting the bullet out and cleaning up residual powder, I did a thorough function check, including measuring the gap to see if it had been increased, meaning I had induced fore-aft play in the cylinder. Mine is a P&R M19-3 in VGC, and I certainly want to keep it that way.
Even though these rounds were improperly loaded, after thinking about how the residual powder looked, I believe this was a case of a squib load with a bad primer. Most of the powder charge had not burned; some of it was a crusty chunk that sat directly behind the bullet, but when I removed the old case from the chamber, a good bit of unburned powder was still in it. I used Federal #200 small magnum pistol primers for these loads; I usually use Winchester small magnum pistol primers, but the LGS had run out. Could have happened with them as well I suppose.

At any rate, I'm going to take these rounds apart and load them correctly. Good thing is, a kinetic puller won't damage the case or bullet, so I can reuse them. Only thing wasted will be the powder.
 
The first time you bust a wooden dowel in the bore and jam it to hell and back will teach you real quick why gunsmiths keep an variety of brass, aluminum and steel rods available for this duty. Skip wood, pretty for stocks but lousy for dislodging stuck bullets.


Kevin
 
I finally broke down and bought myself one of those one size fits all bullet puller, $30 at Runnings. I figure after pounding out 1200 Federal government contract ( thin case) .40 s using my buddies 1985 version . I owed it to both of us. I completely pulverized an 8’ 2x4 getting those offloaded again. It’s a handy gadget to keep around. How that plastic impact end keeps from splitting you do have to wonder......
 
Oooh boy I definitely have a story to tell about loading 125 grainers with the wrong powder...

thing is, I still have three of those left. Don't know what to do with them, I need a bullet puller.
 
bust a wooden dowel in the bore and jam it to hell and back

Yep been there and done that. Made the original problem ALOT worse.
I forgot what we did, I think I got a shaped enough metal rod and just pounded the hell out of the bullet in the barrel. And then had to pound again because there was a ball of splitered wood stuck in there too.

When you have a bullet stuck in the barrel, DON'T USE improvised tools to get it out. Keep a metal rod that fits down the barrel with a good solid hammer with you at all times in your range bag. My dad in fact bought three long steel rods (That fit in 9mm diameter) just so we never have that problem again.
 
Even though these rounds were improperly loaded, after thinking about how the residual powder looked, I believe this was a case of a squib load with a bad primer. Most of the powder charge had not burned; some of it was a crusty chunk that sat directly behind the bullet. . .
In my experience (based on fooling with dramatically reduced cast rifle loading), this is what an underloaded cartridge looks like. You had too much empty volume and insufficient primer to get the powder started. I guess the primer was fine, but couldn't light the powder over all that empty space. These can also be really inconsistent, with one out of ten failing to fire.

Nice recovery. I like how you solved the squib.
 
I once broke my now hard-and-fast rule about shooting other's reloads, and was rewarded with the same problem you had, but in my S&W Bodyguard38. I used a piece of an old, solid, aluminum cleaning rod I had got in a estate sale lot some years ago, clamped the gun in securely, yet protected, and started with tapping, and slowly increased the taps until I backed that bullet (148 DEWC) back into the case, and could open it. The other option is a thin flat file tip inserted between the ejector rod and the bullet used very carefully and slowly.

Good thing is, a kinetic puller won't damage the case or bullet, so I can reuse them. Only thing wasted will be the powder.

From what you describe, I'd suggest replacing the primers also.
 
Buddy of mine shattered the end of a wooden dowel in the bore of his rifle. He tried a 1/4” hardwood dowel in a 45-70 bore with a stuck lead slug. The dowel actually expanded the lead making things worse (tighter) before shattering in the bore. We got it out with an aluminum rod and a mallet.

After that I got rid of the wooden dowels I had on hand just for that reason.

Glad things worked out well, bangswitch.
 
48 rounds of bad ammo is a good number... plenty enough unloading that you won't make that mistake again but small enough that it is still manageable. 30 years ago when I first started reloading I had 300 rounds of 9mm that had to be unloaded. It took 2 years and an ammo / reloading component shortage before I actually unloaded them... using a kinetic puller for all of them.
 
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I once got a bullet stuck in the barrel of my .357 because I tried a powder charge that was too light. I picked up some empty .22 cases that were laying on the ground and dropped them down the barrel until the last one protruded. Then I pushed that against a hard object until it was pushed down flat with the muzzle. Then I put in another empty .22 case and pushed that down, and so on, until the stuck bullet was pushed out the back of the barrel. It was easy and only took a minute or two.
 
48 rounds of bad ammo is a good number... plenty enough unloading that you won't make that mistake again but small enough that it is still manageable. 30 years ago when I first started reloading I had 300 rounds of 9mm that had to be unloaded. I took 2 years and an ammo / reloading component shortage before It actually unloaded them... using a kinetic puller for all of them.
I disassembled 350 38sp after a squib when I first started reloading. Weighed every charge as I took them apart too. Did this before I reloaded another round just to make sure I hadn't made the same mistake multiple times. A valuable lesson for me.
 
When I was eighteen I accidentally blew my TV into oblivion with a Ruger Security-Six. Wait, were we talking about reloading? :D
Given the quality of programming, today that would be considered a mercy killing. I have no idea how long ago you were eighteen, but it probably was no different then. While this event doesn't qualify as "reloading", it certainly fits in the "unloading" category.
 
Howdy Again

I concur with the others here. I keep a few brass and aluminum rods on hand for slugging barrels, I never use a wooden rod because it may splinter or shatter. My favorite rod is a brass rod .312 (5/16") in diameter. I can slug the barrel of anything from 38 to 45 with that rod.
 
Don't feel to bad. Last year I had to pull down 1200 rnds of 9mm because I thought I might have double charged one. Never did find it but I got them all pulled apart and re-reloaded and was off to the races. I never let more then 100rnds get into the finished bin before I put them in a ammo can for holding.

WB
 
Here is a hint if you need to drive out a stuck bullet use a brass rod and light taps 50 light taps it will take far less usually like 10 or so Light Taps.

If you slam the rod as hard as you can with a big hammer you will cause the bullet to expand and make it much harder to remove.

So use a bunch of light taps and the bullet will come right out!!.
 
Only thing wasted will be the powder.
You can reuse the powder.

When I sold off my 357SIG's, I had around 2500 rounds of reloads I didnt sell, and figured Id just pull them down and use the components in 9mm. The boy I sold my factory ammo to has a commercial reloading business and I mentioned that the only real loss was the primers. He said just punch them out and reuse them. OK... never really considered doing that, but what the hell.

Everything worked out great. Bullets went into a coffee can, powder went into another coffee can, primers into old primer trays/boxes that were in the trash. Found 9mm a load using the AA #9 I was using in the 3457SIG, and I soon had pretty close to 2500 rounds of 9mm. :)

At the time, when I started, I was using one of the impact type pullers and realized right quick, that wasnt going to work. Got a collet type puller made by Hornady, and the game was on, and it was money VERY well spent. If you have more than a couple of rounds to pulldown, it or something similar is what you want.

One thing about reusing the primers. At one point, I had a bunch of 30-06 that Id inherited and the powder had gone bad and started to break down, which in turn, caused the brass to fail. I recovered the bullets and figured Id try the primers again with them. That too worked well, but on the next reload, I did have two cases that the bottom of the primer broke off, leaving a ring in the pocket, and you couldnt seat a new primer.

I dont make a habit of doing it, but if you have a lot of rounds, I think its still worth it to recover them, even if you lose a couple of cases in the long run. Every primer I punched out and reused, fired as expected too.
 
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