Hello everyone, I am new to reloading and I have a question concerning bullets

Within a bullet weight (within a few grains) and construction (cast, jacketed, mono), the manufacturer matters less than barrel-to-barrel variation. Find a recipe of the appropriate weight and construction, and start at the Start charge.

As Mr ware stated

edwardware said:

the manufacturer matters less than barrel-to-barrel variation.

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So, if you knew the maker and could find it in a manual, you would have a suggested over all length (OAL) for the loaded round. Since you don't have that piece of the puzzle, you have to figure that out. But, basically, the ideal OAL for your weapon(s) depends on your barrel(s) anyway. So, adopt one of the various methods for seating depth and you have that piece.

I've used seconds and pulls for everything but high precision needs. But, weigh them! I've had some with an odd bullet or three thrown in.

I know times are tough right now in terms of component availability, but as a new handloader, I strongly believe you'd be best served by choosing a bullet/powder/primer combination that matches your chosen load data exactly. There also many variables to consider and so much learning to be done. By using the exact same bullets, powder, & primer your published 'recipe' calls for, you eliminate a number of potential 'gotchas'.

Cemetery21 said:

. . . you would have a suggested over all length (OAL) for the loaded round. Since you don't have that piece of the puzzle, you have to figure that out.

. . . But, weigh them! I've had some with an odd bullet or three thrown in.

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@BobABQ , @Cemetery21 makes some good points!

For COAL, I'd survey the manuals for similar design's suggested COALs; that'll keep you out of the lands. Next is to learn to find jamb, and playing with jump.

And good pointed on weighing/looking carefully. A 180 in a pile of 168s could be no fun at all.

I've never looked at any of the "seconds" while trying to work up a load, mostly because without knowing (weighing, measuring, checking runout, etc...) Why they were seconds to begin with it's kind of a crapshoot on what sort of accuracy you can achieve. If your goal is just some cheap, safe blasting ammo then do as others mentioned and match up with like weight/construction and start low. I've used the sold by weight bulk 2nds in handguns quite a few times after I've settled on a load but never had much luck with accuracy. I imagine if you're loading for a rifle, it could be worse.

I bought some “seconds” from Berry’s. Just some slight blemishes in the plating is all I could find. Everything else is as it should be.

I have purchased "seconds" that were said to be Nosler. I measured and weighed the bullets and only found a rough edge on the hollow point (BTHP, 150 gr). I found data in my Nosler manual, but I could have used any data for a bullet of the same weight, length and shape. Don't know about today, but a few years ago there were differences between "seconds" and "blems". Seconds were not quite up to factory new standards, off a little on weight, dimensions, etc., but still very serviceable. Blems were sold with "cosmetic" differences from standard. I have purchased some blems (for the same gun, same caliber) and the only difference I could find was discoloration on the jacket. I thought about heat causing the color difference. but by my amateur testing I could not find any reason to think so. Both seconds and blems shot just as good as "firsts"....

Just got email they have seconds right now. I just look at the picture and compare what the bullet is, i.e. spire point, fmj, etc. As long as weight is correct they are good to go.

Honestly you can usually tell what manufacturer they are. If you need help post pictures on here and we’ll be able to tell you, generally speaking

BobABQ said:

Midway USA occasionally has “seconds” sales on bullets and while an individual can narrow the selection down to bullet weigh for any given caliber they do not provide any information about the manufacturer.

My question is how do I go about selecting a powder or powder charge without knowing the bullet manufacturer?
Which reloading documentation do I use?

Thank you very much.

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I don't buy blems or seconds but I do buy some brands - Everglade for example that are not in the books / load information. I match the bullet style/weight ( maybe FMJ RN 115 gr) to Hornady for example and use that load data and have never had a problem. I also never load past the powder mid range charge so a little bit of variance is not a problem.

Typically you can identify which manufacturer and model each of their factory seconds offering might be, and subsequently make judicious purchases, and correspondingly well-guided reloading choices.

Which ones are you looking at? Bet we can tell you what they are