Bolt lock for 10/22?

Status
Not open for further replies.

bernie

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2003
Messages
898
Location
The great state of Arkansas
I am wanting to get a host for a suppressor that I am ordering and I really like the 10/22. However, I really want something that will shoot from a "locked" bolt just to keep it somewhat quieter when squirrel hunting if I choose to do so. Does anyone make some sort of device to lock the bolt closed, yet still shoot semi auto if you so desire?
 
A hobbyist was selling a magnetic bolt stay a few years back. When I saw it, I was struck by how easy it would be to make. All you would need is a piece of plastic with magnetic tape on one side, contoured for the recess created by the closed bolt and the eject port.
 
My Savage Model 7 (that makes it ooold) does that with the bolt handle. The action can be locked open with one hole, closed with the other. It is not threaded however. I like the above suggestions.


C57730FD-8D80-4A2F-A09B-242DEBD22D14.jpeg


36949AF0-6185-43B3-AC53-57BA8E4F0A01.jpeg
 
Drill a small hole through the side of the receiver into the bolt then stick a nail in there.
I would place the hole directly behind the closed position of the bolt where it blocks rearward movement, tap it, then use a small wing bolt to make it easy to use. I don't think I would drill the hole directly into the bolt because blow-back actions can be really finicky about bolt mass. Whether that comment applies specifically to the 10/22 I have no idea.
 
Some folks just make a steel bit to fit in the ejection port snuggly behind the charging handle and some claim that only works with like CB Longs and such and not full power .22 LR

I had a bud that used to hold the bolt closed on a Ruger Mark whatever Amphibian with his thumb (I thought he was nuts but it seemed to work for him) so I have to think a fairly light bit of steel in the ejection port might work well with Standard velocity in a 10/22 and if not keep spares for when it bends.

Replacing the steel bolt stop with a nylon one or "rubber" covered one seems to help a good bit with action noise. I carried my Bolt stop pin to Ace hardware with me and the Helpful Hardware Man (TM) assisted me in finding a white nylon carriage bolt (two to the pack) that fit perfect when the threaded bit and bolt head were removed with a single edged work razor. Or order a prettier one from any number of folks on line.

You may find that the 10/22 without a steel bolt stop pin to hammer against is quiet enough.

DO NOT as some have recommended remove the bolt stop pin and shoot the rifle anyway. The actual purpose of the bolt stop pin is to not allow the bolt to go back far enough to align with the disassembly cut outs in the receiver. Dirt and grit in there may cause those cut outs to get burred edges and lock up a bolt to the rear.

-kBob
 
You may find that the 10/22 without a steel bolt stop pin to hammer against is quiet enough.
I have the bolt buffer pin sold by Volquartsen and, yes, I think that might suit the OP's needs. I now remember a guy at the range shooting a suppressed 10/22 in a tactical stock and was suprised to notice that the loudest noise I noticed was coming, not from the rifle, but from downrange: the "sonic boom" made by the bullet. So, if the OP's 10/22 will cycle subsonic ammo, that plus the polymer bolt buffer might be enough to do the trick.
 
I've experiment Ted holding the bolt closed with a mkii, and thumb pressure held it shut no problem. I don't see any reason why you couldn't shoot left-handed and use your right thumb to hold the bolt closed that's easy for me to say, because I'm already left handed.
 
I just hold the bolt forward with my left hand.

Or you can:
just make a steel bit to fit in the ejection port snuggly behind the charging handle. . .

Also as @kBob mentioned, replacing the steel stop pin with a rubber pin makes a noticeable difference.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top