do you rush shots with DA straight pull?

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roval

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i find that when i try to consciously not stage the trigger in DA shooting that i rush the shot , as in continue pulling even if the sights move slightly. with my gp 100 the pull is less linear compared to my smith 586. i think probably due to the larger mass of the cylinder, the initial pull seems heavier till you get the cylinder moving. i am used to staging the trigger but am trying to do less of it.
for people that just pull continuously do you stop when the sights move slightly?

i did a video of me shooting my gp 100. the first target was me trying to do a long continuous pull and the second was my usual pull sometimes straight sometimes staged. 25 yrds i always stage the trigger.

 
It looks like you are staging every time. The important part is most or the bullets ended up in the 10 or on the gong.
 
do you stop the pull as the sight moves? normally i pull then redjust the sights( staged).
 
Well it looks pretty good to me. These days with my eyes and getting over shoulder surgeries I can only do that from a rest at 25 yards or more.
 
Looks like trigger pull is the same on both targets, just at different speeds. I'm guessing this is just ingrained in your system. What happens when you do the equivalent of a mag dump? 6 rapid fire shots? It appears you are already a pretty good shot and my guess would be you would mostly be on target. In other words, you already know how to do this but you are overthinking it. Thinking to much is sometimes the bane of a good shooter.
 
I agree with Kidneyboy.

You are pulling and staging all the time.
In a smooth DA pull, the hammer does
not stop at any point.

Try dry firing with a steady pull, letting
the hammer fall as a "surprise." Not
when you think it should happen.

You'll find that with a steady, even pull
your sights won't wobble off by much
or at all.

Dry fire at a spot on a wall or a point
in a target or a nearby tree. The hammer
should not pause, stop, hesitate one bit
in its rearward journey.

Do it slowly, increasing your tempo as
you continue in dry firing lessons.

I note your grip is a bit down from the
top of your stock. Try gripping higher
as well. If it's uncomfortable, then
forget it but do try it with dry firing.
 
Last edited:
I always learned, and subsequently taught, accept the wobble and continue to press the trigger. Staging can sometimes lead to jerking the trigger the instant the perfect sight picture/sight alignment happens, then you end up dumping the barrel and missing low. YMMV
 
If you are meeting your shooting standards I wouldn't over think it.

I stage as quickly as possible, find the sights again, then break the shot.

If you shoot a USPSA match, where there is a timer and you are moving, this will add some additional stress, and you will likely learn a lot about your own shooting, which matters more than getting a good score / placing IMO.

-Stan
 
You've ingrained a bad habit, it's going to take a lot of work to fix it. You need to learn how to stroke the trigger so that the sights don't "move slightly".
A laser system and lots of dry firing and you can get the trigger finger to move independently from the rest of your hand.
 
UncleEd said:
I agree with Kidneyboy.

You are pulling and staging all the time.
In a smooth DA pull, the hammer does
not stop at any point.

Try dry firing with a steady pull, letting
the hammer fall as a "surprise." Not
when you think it should happen.

You'll find that with a steady, even pull
your sights won't wobble off by much
or at all.

Dry fire at a spot on a wall or a point
in a target or a nearby tree. The hammer
should not pause, stop, hesitate one bit
in its rearward journey.

Do it slowly, increasing your tempo as
you continue in dry firing lessons.

I note your grip is a bit down from the
top of your stock. Try gripping higher
as well. If it's uncomfortable, then
forget it but do try it with dry firing.
Click to expand...

I'll practice with the Smith 586 as the pull has the same resistance throughout. the 357 mag load at the end i thought was at a high enough grip. in fact the last shot i knew was not going to hit as the trigger finger was a little tired pulling up at an angle than more horizontally and i couldn't pull it back enough. i call it my trigger finger running out of gas.
 
UncleEd said:
I agree with Kidneyboy.

You are pulling and staging all the time.
In a smooth DA pull, the hammer does
not stop at any point.

Try dry firing with a steady pull, letting
the hammer fall as a "surprise." Not
when you think it should happen.

You'll find that with a steady, even pull
your sights won't wobble off by much
or at all.

Dry fire at a spot on a wall or a point
in a target or a nearby tree. The hammer
should not pause, stop, hesitate one bit
in its rearward journey.

Do it slowly, increasing your tempo as
you continue in dry firing lessons.

I note your grip is a bit down from the
top of your stock. Try gripping higher
as well. If it's uncomfortable, then
forget it but do try it with dry firing.
Click to expand...

I'll practice with the Smith 586 as the pull has the same resistance throughout. the 357 mag load at the end i thought was at a high enough grip. in fact the last shot i knew was not going to hit as the trigger finger was a little tired pulling up at an angle than more horizontally and i couldn't pull it back enough. i call it my trigger finger running out of gas.
 
Depending on the stocks, your hold may vary.
The 686 stocks might give you better
feel/angle than the Ruger stocks.

Finding the right stocks, including the
part that fills in the trigger guard well,
can be extremely important besides the
thickness of the stocks themselves.

The typical S&W target stocks are
atrocious, at least for me. I prefer
thinner stocks which also cover
the back strap.

Currently S&W is supplying "Uncle Mike"
style stocks with some of its K-frame
models such as the 64 or the Model
19 Carry Comp. I like these.

For the Ruger you might try the less
bulky rubber version with wood inserts
which are supplied with a number of
their models. I think Ruger sells them
on-line.
 
Last edited:
roval said:
for people that just pull continuously do you stop when the sights move slightly?
Click to expand...
No I don't. You have to accept that the sight will move during the trigger pull just as it does when you're just holding the gun out. If your perception of the sight moving bothers you, use a revolver with a shorter sight radius...it still moves just as much, but you won't notice it as much. What you need to do is learn to reduce the "wobble zone" that the sight moves in during your trigger press

As for your videos, you're staging on both targets, What you're doing is pulling the trigger back until the tip of your trigger finger reaches an index point and then you pause to refine your sight picture...then you snap off the shot. The positive side is that when you snap the shot off, it isn't disturbing the gun much...you're not jerking it down.

I don't know if you are aware of it, but you are readjusting your grip after each shot. What this usually indicates is that you're not applying correct force vectors with your grip
 
I usually do a straight-through, dynamic pull, with S&W and Ruger DA revolvers. Correction is done, if necessary, during the pull. The original-pattern, pre-Hogue GP100 grip fits my hands superbly, which might be why my hands do not shift, during recoil.

I originally learned long-stroke DA, during a police academy, in 1983 and 1984, and refined it in the following years. I do not claim to be an expert.

I bought a Colt Python, in the early Nineties, shortly after I bought my first GP100. I probably experimented with staging the Python’s trigger. That mechanism was a quite different animal, and the grip shape far different. I did not keep the Python very long, as it required its own distinct technique, and I decided to keep things simple. (Yes, in hindsight, I should have kept it, for “investment” purposes.)
 
The whole point of a DA trigger is to make repeated shots faster than single action shooting will allow. If I were taking 1 second or longer to pull the trigger all the way back I'd be firing in single action.

That being said, hold the gun tight and pull the trigger faster. Don't stop if the sights move a little, pull all the way through. Dry fire is the best way to figure out if the sights are being shifted off target during the trigger pull. Practice it fast. Don't jerk it, but it should be fast enough that you can't tell when the cylinder starts or finishes rotating.

That's my two cents.
 
ill go to the range next time with just the 586 and the gp100 and try out the tips with dry firing beforehand. i still have a few hundred wadcutters loaded.
 
If pulling the double action trigger as quickly as possible, without stacking, I find that best results occur with a firm firing grip and a secondary hand death grip.

-Stan
 
I think that making a continuous, firm and deliberate squeeze of not too fast and not too slow duration helps me to mentally commit to firing and to focus attention on and to fine tune the sight picture while squeezing.
 
It's impossible to hold any gun with the sights dead on the target unless you are using a rest. The secret is not to pull the trigger quickly when the sights are on the bull, because this just makes for trigger jerk. The secret is to anticipate the sights moving across the bull and timing your smooth pull appropriately. This is true with both long guns and handguns.
 
Good shooting. I just picked up a S&W 686 and felt myself wanting to stage the trigger before firing. I've got some work to do at 25 yards in DA though, hoping to get to where you. Keep up the fine tuning. A lot of good suggestions on this thread so far.
 
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