Damnit, 44/45 DA revolver question!

[Zantrin]

Having recently fired both a gp 100 and a python and finding my trigger finger to short for either(pulling shots to the right when firing DA), python was slightly better in this reguard

It looks like my plans to buy a 44 or 45 have to be scrapped, After all a 44 frames is bigger than a 357 frame, does anybody have any recomendations as to what I might buy(5 or 6 shot DA-revolver with 4" to 6" barrel in 44 or 45)

Z

 

[Standing Wolf]

I believe Smith & Wesson makes an L frame .44 special, and Taurus makes one of about the same size.

On second thought, are you sure you need a double action revolver? It might be worth your while to look at single action revolvers, many of which accommodate short fingers better than the double action type.

 

[Josey]

I second the single action. Ruger makes a Bisley Vaquero 44 Magnum that is sweet. I hesitate to even mention the Charter Arms 44 Bulldog. Taurus frames are easier to reach for me. I suggest looking at a S&W and having the grips replaced. There was a Lew Horton S&W 44 special run once.

 

[Stainz]

If you really want a .44 Special 5-shot with a dimunitive boot grip, look for the hi-tech S&W 296. It has an enclosed hammer (You'll definitely get your DA wish here!), fixed sights, mid-sized (L-frame), 2.5" SS lined barrel, and is made of Al, SS, and Ti... very low weight (~21 oz loaded). It is ammo restrictive - 200gr or less clad only. The excellent Blazer 200gr Gold Dot HP's in .44 Special, only $13/50 at the local (TX-AL) 'Academy Sports' chains, are perfect for PD.

The 296 was axed by S&W in 2001 - but persists in the supply chain at less than half it's original retail ($790!). CDNN Investments in TX still has them in their catalog for ~$370, for example. Mine - now with the larger backstrap-enclosing Uncle Mike's combat grips - a la the new 10's and 696's, etc - is my CCW - a definite 'keeper'. It has an abrupt recoil... mainly due to it's lite weight.

Stainz

PS The excellent all SS 3" .44 Special L-frame 5-shooter S&W made, the similar to the 296/L-frame 696, was also axed - but in late 2002. It's resources dried up quickly. S&W has always had problems marketing it's very own .44 Special round chambered revolvers... I am part of it's 'cult' following!

 

[caz223]

Think performance center or action job.
N-frames are the way to go.
I found a nice used .44 mag performance center trail boss (Magna-ported) with a light DA trigger that's butter smooooth for $500 a few weeks ago, I didn't take very long to think about it at all. Two days and she was mine.

 

[caseydog]

Thinner smooth triggers can help this for DA shooting for a lot of folks , try to find an N frame round butt with a narrow "combat" trigger to try. The big fat target stocks Smith uses won't be any good for you , look for a frame fitting round butt stock. Ray

 

[BluesBear]

After all a 44 frames is bigger than a 357 frame,

Yes and No.

You are comparing a Ruger and a Colt to...?

The overall frame size is different. In a S&W the height of the frame will be a little greater but the distance from the backstrap to the trigger will be just about the same.

If you have trouble reaching the trigger try an N-frame with grips that leave the backstrap exposed. Also you can get S&W triggers in different widths and faces.

There should be a combination of grip shape and trigger configuration available that would suit any sized hands.

 

[Jim March]

The adjustable-sight GP100s come with a large grip, the same one found on the SuperRedHawk.

Fixed-sight GP100s come with a smaller grip closer in size to the SP101, although not directly swappable.

That smaller GP grip can be fit to any GP *or* the SuperRedHawk, and might be the answer you're looking for. Or some aftermarket very small GP/SRH compatible grip.

 

[Sarge111]

Zantrin...

Nobody mastered the DA revolver in one or two range sessions. You'd probably need to shoot each of them quite a bit to-

a) get accustomed to the individual grip/trigger engagement dynamics well enough to actually shoot it well, and

b) begin to learn the gun's individual DA stroke well enough to shoot it well

I taught the DA revolver for awhile (still do occasionally) and unless you have really small hands, you can usually find a grip that'll work. The new N-frame S&W's are now being made with an adaptation of the old "K" round butt; this grip is downright tiny with service-size "magna" stocks installed.

I'm betting that if you tried a .44/.45 S&W "Mountain Gun", stocked as noted above and fitted with a Tyler "T-grip", you'd be pretty happy. Another good alternative is the old Pachmayer "Compac" grip, and Butler Creek's adaptation of the Spegel "boot grip" is worth a look.

One thing is for sure- if you're going to master it, you need to shoot it to the exclusion of everything else. The best shooters master a particular gun instead of taking a suitcase full of them to the range every trip- and not shooting ANY of them particularly well. Go to any public range on a weekend, and you'll see what I'm talking about. There'll be 2-3 guys on a station with as many different guns, and they'll have a rotation going. Two will be loading mags and one will be stepping up and blasting ten rounds as fast as they can shoot- repeat until ammo depleted. If they're 15-25 yards, their targets will look like they emptied a riot gun loaded with 00 buck, in the general direction of the target frames. These guys keep the ammo companies in business and they're having a blast- but they could shoot like this for decades and never improve their skill. Mastering the gun is more fun in the long run, anyhow.

Start with light loads, shoot lots of D/A from 7 yards to start, and then work your way back slowly until you're getting good hits at 20-25 yards. It is entirely possible to keep 5 of 6 shots on a playing card at 20 yards, shooting double-action. (We used to try it at 50) Strive for this kind of accuracy and don't accept anything less from yourself. Make it your goal.

If you want to learn to shoot a big D/A bad enough- you will. All you need is decent or correctable vision, good hand-eye coordination, and raw determination.

Well, a reloading outfit might help, too

Take care-

 

[Zantrin]

I sorta figured this one out on my own(eventualy :banghead: )
after coming across an article in an old guns@ammo entiteled secrets of DA shooting(or something like that)

I am now looking at the 4" taurus .44(does anybody have a link to a company that sells/makes slim wood grips for this one(without fingergroves))

Z

 

[Sarge111]

Just a word on the Taurus M44...

my brother went through two of these that both exhibited the same problem- cylinder unlocked upon firing with anything approaching a full factory-level 240 grain load. By unlocking I don't mean the cylinder fell out of the frame or anything like that, but it DID roll backwards far enough that the next cycle would bring up the just fired-primer. Disconcerting to say the least- deadly under some circumstances.

They are nice looking revolvers, and are said to be accurate enough; Jim's problem was 5-6 years ago and maybe the new guns are much better now. The whole thing, coupled with other problems with their DA's, has kinda soured me on their guns. In your shoes I'd save a little longer and find me a pre-lock S&W Mountain Gun or a nice old 29; the Redhawk is outrageously strong if you want to tote that much gun around.

If you DO buy a Taurus .44, let us know how it works out. I'd sure like to hear that they got their QC issues worked out.