Re crimping about 1500 rounds,

Palladan44 · Feb 7, 2021

Ive crimped by 10mm loads over the years enough to remove the bell and no more. Basically until they were just straight, or around .4195-.4200 at the neck. Crimping only matters for feeding purposes as projectiles are held in place by case tension on straight walled semi auto pistol cases.

They functioned flawlessly in my factory Glock 40 MOS barrel. But upon using them in my newer drop in Lone Wolf barrel, the have some FT/feed, stopping short of battery, etc. Polished up the chamber and ramp on the LW, but to no avail.

I ruled out the possibility of OAL (1.2550 plus or minus 10 thou) and determined they were just not crimped enough to feed reliably. Once re crimped, they feed in smooth like glass.

I have about 1500 loaded up, and have my dillon 550B progressive set up with only the crimp die on, so i can do 100 rounds in about 10 -15 minutes. I have the patience to maybe do 100-150 a day.... It is what it is

FWIW, i checked some factory diameters at the case mouth and i found SIG v crowns at .4185 and Magtechs at .4190. Thought id share this info.

rfwobbly · Feb 7, 2021

Simple diagnosis. Pain to fix.

Look at the bright side, brother. You could be disassembling 1500 rounds with a kinetic hammer !!

And end up like this....

.

myg30 · Feb 8, 2021

Can we ask your results with the replacement bbl. ? Is the accuracy any better or was this a longer bbl ? Looks only ?
Reason I ask, I also purchased a lw bbl yeas ago in a 6” glock 10mm and I have never had the chance to try it out do to health issues. I have thought to sell it but your findings might change my mind.

Sorry you have to recrimp all those but the post above is also true. Lol
I had same with replacing a g27 bbl yrs ago but only re crimped 35 test rds.

Thank you, Mike

SamT1 · Feb 8, 2021

I use a lee FCD for the final stage on all pistol cases. I don’t really crimp with it. Just make it kiss it. It’s like doing a plunk test on every round.
I load 100% cast in pistols have have found it to be the only way I get 100% function.

reddog81 · Feb 8, 2021

Seems like it'd be easier to reinstall the factory barrel to shoot them.

mdi · Feb 8, 2021

reddog81 said:
Seems like it'd be easier to reinstall the factory barrel to shoot them.

That's a thought! I love all the time I spend at the reloading bench so "re-crimping/deflaring" them wouldn't be a big deal for me, but shooting the majority of the handloads in the stock barrel, and re-crimping some for the Lone Wolf bbl would appeal to many...

Palladan44 · Feb 8, 2021

mdi said:
That's a thought! I love all the time I spend at the reloading bench so "re-crimping/deflaring" them wouldn't be a big deal for me, but shooting the majority of the handloads in the stock barrel, and re-crimping some for the Lone Wolf bbl would appeal to many...

I will say that the generous tolerances of the glock barrel allows the brass to bulge quite a bit, especially with the upper end loads (i load 10s to be 10s and not a .40) also some of the hard cast lead isnt supposed to go through the polygonal rifling of the Glock barrel. I forgot to mention that part.

reddog81 · Feb 8, 2021

FWIW you aren't supposed to shoot ANY reloads in a Glock... Lead bullets do fine in my model 20(10mm) and 41(45 ACP).

mdi · Feb 8, 2021

FWIW, I did a little research on cast in poly barrels a while back. I can only say my 125 gr RF cast bullets, running about 12 BHN do not lead the poly barrel of my 9mm Masada even with 1,100 + fps loads, as long as the bullet fits... I read this a few years ago; http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?33855-The-Truth-about-Glocks-and-Cast

SamT1 · Feb 8, 2021

reddog81 said:
FWIW you aren't supposed to shoot ANY reloads in a Glock... Lead bullets do fine in my model 20(10mm) and 41(45 ACP).

The lone wolf is not the same rifling as the factory barrel.
And reloads void the warranty of every gun in the world.

DukeConnor · Feb 8, 2021

Keep the lone wolf barrel and adjust your loads.
happy

reddog81 · Feb 8, 2021

SamT1 said:
The lone wolf is not the same rifling as the factory barrel.
And reloads void the warranty of every gun in the world.

True.

I have guns from multiple manufacturers with polygonal rifling and shoot lead in all of them. I also have a Lone Wolf threaded barrel and shoot lead in it. Better case support might be a valid reason to avoid the factory barrel, but the use of lead bullets is not a reason to avoid using the stock barrel

ms6852 · Feb 8, 2021

Thanks for sharing that information. I recently bought a 10mm TRP and that is good information to pass on to those starting in the shooting sports and reloading hobbies.

Hondo Kid · Feb 9, 2021

Palladan44 said:
Ive crimped by 10mm loads over the years enough to remove the bell and no more. Basically until they were just straight, or around .4195-.4200 at the neck. Crimping only matters for feeding purposes as projectiles are held in place by case tension on straight walled semi auto pistol cases.

They functioned flawlessly in my factory Glock 40 MOS barrel. But upon using them in my newer drop in Lone Wolf barrel, the have some FT/feed, stopping short of battery, etc. Polished up the chamber and ramp on the LW, but to no avail.

I ruled out the possibility of OAL (1.2550 plus or minus 10 thou) and determined they were just not crimped enough to feed reliably. Once re crimped, they feed in smooth like glass.

I have about 1500 loaded up, and have my dillon 550B progressive set up with only the crimp die on, so i can do 100 rounds in about 10 -15 minutes. I have the patience to maybe do 100-150 a day.... It is what it is

FWIW, i checked some factory diameters at the case mouth and i found SIG v crowns at .4185 and Magtechs at .4190. Thought id share this info.

Hondo Kid · Feb 9, 2021

I had the same issue - but with factory ammo. I bought some Herters 9mm 115 gr about 6 - 8 months ago. Ran fine in my Ruger Security 9 but when I tried in a newly purchased Security 9 the ammo would FTF. Got home and hand racked it and found that the ammo was hanging up on the lip of the case. I polished the new ramp but it did not seem help. I then used my Lee factory crimp die to nudge it a little tighter and they run fine now. I guess a new barrel (ramp) needs to be fed a few rounds to wear it down?

maxxhavoc · Feb 9, 2021

I second the Lee FCD. For right chambers and feed issues they solve 99% of issues.

If you have never needed one, that is normal. I did not need one until I got into 9mm revolvers. I found that autos have very loose chambers.

I still only use it for 9mm (as far as pistol calibers go), and only ones being used in revolvers

jmorris · Feb 9, 2021

I have a lonewolf glock barrel, have had two, sent the first one back thinking I got a lemon, the factory barrel shoots better than either LW did/does.

I suppose your situation is what it is and you know that in 2.5 hrs you’ll have them ready to go in the new barrel.

This is one reason I don’t like to load out everything I have. Never know when I’ll find another load or buy another gun, even in a different chambering and wish I had components vs ammo I don’t need ready to go or a pain to break down/reprocess.

Re crimping about 1500 rounds,

Palladan44

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mdi

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