my new to me old smith and wesson model19

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roval

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i found a model 19-5 at my LGS. It was priced at $619.95. it had some finish issues but seemed to be in good working order. i traded in my old gp100 blued 6inch half lug. i bought it used for $400 about 5 yrs ago and he gave me $500 for it so i traded it in. i noticed that he ended up charging me $650 for the smith on the final receipt but i let it go.

in spite of all the wear and the significant turn line the gun counter guy goes " it doesnt look like it was shot much". Aaargh! Why insult our intelligence.

I went to the range the next day and shot 38 spcl wadcutters , swcs and a few 357 mags. trigger was nice but i may end up replacing the trigger rebound spring later.

this satisfies my want for a model 15 for now.

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Nice! Everything is good about this post. I love my 19-3 with 4” barrel, bought this year. Mine is just a little rougher than yours. I still want a model 10 though. I would probably put a spring kit in mine but I have a 66-8 that is my primary. I put a Wilson Combat spring kit in my 66 and I can recommend it. With the kit, mine has 100% fired 5 or 6 different factory rounds and hand loads with 5 different primers including CCI.
 
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Nice gun, it's just seen the inside of a holster a lot. Good groups on the ranger, too. It's probably seen a lot of target shooting, but, that's what you wanted it for, right? Great gun, and I love the Patridge front sight.
 
Man, I wish Id kept my 6" M19!

Great gun, though it looks like its definitely got some mileage on the odometer.

Im sure youve done your homework about light bullets, magnum loads, and cracked forcing cones?
i had some 125 gr xtp loaded up and definitely decided this wasn't the gun for it. i shot some 158 gr powder coated over 14 gr 2400 but i think i will stick with 38 special or milder 357 mag like 158 gr and CFE pistol.
 
I have a never-sell -2 4 inch Cop gun and my 66 as the core of my .357s.

I've been so completely happy with my used S&Ws that I've either sold or loaned out my previously coveted Rugers.

Todd.
 
Howdy

Very nice.

I bought my Model 19-3 brand spanky new in 1975. Still have the box and all the goodies. I paid $125 for it, but that was 1975 dollars, which was a lot of money back then for a kid in his twenties.

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Yours actually has a little bit more wear and tear than mine does. It appears to me the hammer spur on your 19-5 is slightly longer than on my 19-3. Also, you will notice the grips are slightly different. Yours are cut for a speed loader, mine are not.

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It is pretty much impossible to prevent putting a turn ring on any S&W revolver if you shoot it very much. Particularly if you play with it a lot and open and close the cylinder a lot, because the bolt will be up and rubbing against the cylinder every time you close the cylinder. Yup, with the wear present on yours, I suspect it has been shot a fair amount, particularly from the loss of blue on the backstrap and the frame behind the trigger. The loss of blue at the muzzle looks like holster wear, but the loss of blue on the cylinder looks a bit too scratchy to be from holster wear. The loss of blue on the high spots of the cylinder from holster wear is usually softer than that.

If you really want to know how much it has been shot, inspect the recoil shield. Every time it is fired, the round being fired will smack back against the recoil shield. Eventually this will leave a mark like a halo around the firing pin.

This 38 Military and Police left the factory in 1908, but it has actually been fired very little.

pmdNRsBzj.jpg




This K-38 from 1957 has been fired considerably more. Notice how in addition to the halo around the firing pin there are two more showing up. This happens because the rounds at those positions in the cylinder have not been fired yet and still have their bullets attached, so they still weigh a significant amount. As the revolver recoils, those rounds will bounce backwards in the chambers once your hand stops the recoil. Enough of that, and they begin to leave a mark in the blue on the recoil shield too.

plscLGMHj.jpg




This K-22 Outdoorsman shipped in 1932 and it has been fired a great deal over the years, judging by all the halos left behind from rounds in the cylinder over the years.

pnmX3wanj.jpg




This method will not give you an exact round count for your revolver, but it will give you an idea of how much it has been fired over the years, despite what the guy in the gun shop said.

By the way, if you pull the trigger with the pad of your finger under the fingernail, instead of nestling the trigger in the crease behind thr first knuckle, you will probably see less rounds hitting to the left of your aiming point. It takes practice to do this, and it does not feel as natural as placing the trigger in the crease, but it generally results in a righty not pulling the gun to the left as much. If you don't mind me correcting you, the proper name of the spring you are talking about is the rebound slide spring. That is the spring that shoves the rebound slide forward, which in turn pushes the trigger forward.
 
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Howdy

Very nice.

I bought my Model 19-3 brand spanky new in 1975. Still have the box and all the goodies. I paid $125 for it, but that was 1975 dollars.

View attachment 1000085




Yours actually has a little bit more wear and tear than mine does. It appears to me the hammer spur on your 19-5 is slightly longer than on my 19-3. Also, you will notice the grips are slightly different. Yours are cut for a speed loader, mine are not.

View attachment 1000086

View attachment 1000087




It is pretty much impossible to prevent putting a turn ring on any S&W revolver if you shoot it very much. Particularly if you play with it a lot and open and close the cylinder a lot, because the bolt will be up and rubbing against the cylinder every time you close the cylinder. Yup, with the wear present on yours, I suspect it has been shot a fair amount, particularly from the loss of blue on the backstrap and the frame behind the trigger. The loss of blue at the muzzle looks like holster wear, but the loss of blue on the cylinder looks a bit too scratchy to be from holster wear. The loss of blue on the high spots of the cylinder from holster wear is usually softer than that.

If you really want to know how much it has been shot, inspect the recoil shield. Every time it is fired, the round being fired will smack back against the recoil shield. Eventually this will leave a mark like a halo around the firing pin.

This 38 Military and Police left the factory in 1908, but it has actually been fired very little.

View attachment 1000088




This K-38 from 1957 has been fired considerably more. Notice how in addition to the halo around the firing pin there are two more showing up. This happens because the rounds at those positions in the cylinder have not been fired yet and still have their bullets attached, so they still weigh a significant amount. As the revolver recoils, those rounds will bounce backwards in the chambers once your hand stops the recoil. Enough of that, and they begin to leave a mark in the blue on the recoil shield too.

View attachment 1000089




This K-22 Outdoorsman shipped in 1932 and it has been fired a great deal over the years, judging by all the halos left behind from rounds in the cylinder over the years.

View attachment 1000090




This method will not give you an exact round count for your revolver, but it will give you an idea of how much it has been fired over the years, despite what the guy in the gun shop said.

By the way, if you pull the trigger with the pad of your finger under the fingernail, instead of nestling the trigger in the crease behind thr first knuckle, you will probably see less rounds hitting to the left of your aiming point. It takes practice to do this, and it does not feel as natural as placing the trigger in the crease, but it generally results in a righty not pulling the gun to the left as much. If you don't mind me correcting you, the proper name of the spring you are talking about is the rebound slide spring. That is the spring that shoves the rebound slide forward, which in turn pushes the trigger forward.


The clarification and the information is much appreciated. I checked out the firing pin area. no halos so that must be a good thing. there are some raised areas of bluing in the side plate that i can't rub out with oil i think the original owner didn't wipe the gun down with oil too often. i hope the notch in the grips i found means nothing , ha ha.

i probably need to change the springs to use the pad of my finger for DA but i will work on it .
 
Nice! The K frame is my favorite S&W even if they can’t eat a huge amount of .357 loads like the larger and sturdier L and N frame Smiths can. You’re on the right track shooting a lot of .38 loads through it, just remember to scrub out your chambers if you decide to shoot .357 magnums after a bunch of .38’s. :)

My 6” K frame .357 is a 66-2, the stainless cousin of your blued 19. The length, weight and grip size are just about perfect for anything you’ll ever want to do with it. My other K frame Smiths have shorter barrels; a 4” 67-1, 3” 13-2 and 2.5” 19-4.

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Congrats on bringing home a great revolver I’m sure you’ll have a lot of fun finding some loads it likes :).

Stay safe.
 
Thanks Driftwood, regarding the signs of firing. Very good info.

Roval, another indication of little use would be that nice looking extractor rod. My 19-4 looked like it rode a holster but the extractor rod had a lot of bluing loss. No matter, the revolver runs great. I enjoy mine very much.

Nice catch! I think you will grow to really like your model 19.
 
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Mine was a nickel -2 with TH, TT, and TG. Traded it on a stainless Ruger Redhawk.......stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid.

Honestly, Ive not been happy with the accuracy on any of the many DA Rugers Ive owned over the years, despite their overbuilt durability- Ive sold or given away most of them.

Kept the snubby, though.

Never sell a vintage Smith and Wesson revolver. Trust me on this.
 
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