40 s&w bulge correction

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domainfitz

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is there something i can use to get the bulge out without using a factory crimp die? i can't find one of them anywhere. i'm using a lee loadmaster.
 
Make sure you sizing die goes down as far as you can. I have even filed some of the die body off my Dillon cabide die so the carbide sizing ring can get as close to the shell plate as possible. I do not have any issues with brass fired in Glocks after doing this.

Another option would be to find a lee under-sized sizing dies for a 40S&W. This does under sizes the brass by .001 and has a relatively short lead into the die and thus will size further down the case than many other sizing dies. This combination does a good job busting the bulge too.
 
I've reloaded many calibers but when I started loading 40 S&W a few years ago I found the almost straight walled 40 case to be a problem. I buy once fired pistol brass that's fired in many different guns. Some chambers must be large and the 40 brass swelled and my sizing die would not size close enough to the head to return 40 brass back to the original diameter. Bought a Lee U-Die which only made things worse as it left a radius where it stopped sizing and also looked to smear the surface of the brass? Bought a Redding GR-X carbide push through sizing die and it is perfect. Takes the entire case back to correct size from mouth to head. Wouldn't load 40 S&W without the carbide GR-X die. Expensive but worth every penny. Saying swelled brass from large chambers and NOT bulged brass that should not ever be reloaded. Check all your 40 brass for bulged "guppy belly" damage and scrap. However my Glock, Beretta, and carbine rifle does not swell brass like bought once fired or range pick-up brass but I still use the GR-X.
 
I have a couple of these that work well.

http://casepro100.com/

These are newer to the market.

https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/rollsizer


Then there are the push through sizers like the magma’s.

https://www.magmaengineering.com/case-master-rimless-case-sizer/

https://www.magmaengineering.com/case-master-jr-rimless-case-sizer/

Or the much cheaper one that Lee makes.

https://leeprecision.com/case-conditioning-tools/lee-bulge-buster-kit/


All of the above will size the portion of the case/rim that remains untouched if you have to pull the case from a die using a shell holder/plate. The roll sizers have the ability to clean up the rim in the extractor groove as well.

009BD4EF-C343-4271-B1ED-A0A65218EC06.jpeg
 
I competed with a pair of glock 22 with free to me .40 once fired LE brass. I never had an issue with any of it with no extra steps other than the fCD. Not sure it was necessary either . Got the brass in 5 gallon buckets. Mostly nickel but maybe 1/3 brass.

The service weapons used were mostly Glock 22s but the Troopers had sig 229 or Beretta 96. One city used the USP in .40. Toward the end one county used sig 320 in .40.

Then only problem I had with just dumping the brass in my hopper was the occasional 357 sig casing that the game wardens carried. When mixed in with 10k .40 casings they can be problematic .
 
I use the Redding G-Rx for 10mm AUTO and 40 S&W. Recommended. Sizes the base and cleans-up tiny burrs from the ejector.
 
rg1 said:
I've reloaded many calibers but when I started loading 40 S&W a few years ago I found the almost straight walled 40 case to be a problem. I buy once fired pistol brass that's fired in many different guns. Some chambers must be large and the 40 brass swelled and my sizing die would not size close enough to the head to return 40 brass back to the original diameter. Bought a Lee U-Die which only made things worse as it left a radius where it stopped sizing and also looked to smear the surface of the brass? Bought a Redding GR-X carbide push through sizing die and it is perfect. Takes the entire case back to correct size from mouth to head. Wouldn't load 40 S&W without the carbide GR-X die. Expensive but worth every penny. Saying swelled brass from large chambers and NOT bulged brass that should not ever be reloaded. Check all your 40 brass for bulged "guppy belly" damage and scrap. However my Glock, Beretta, and carbine rifle does not swell brass like bought once fired or range pick-up brass but I still use the GR-X.
Click to expand...

does the redding GR-X die fit in the lee press?
 
Is this an actual problem you are having or are you just getting started reloading and afraid that it might be an issue? I've reloading a bunch and have never had to get a bulge out. That includes 10,000+ 9mm rounds, thousands of 10mm rounds and a wide variety of others.
 
Encoreman said:
Great advice, I found this out long ago when started shooting USPSA matches, best accessory I ever purchased I believe. It takes a little time to check each round, but it is worth the effort for sure.
Click to expand...
I resisted for a long time because I didn't think it was "necessary," and it wasn't as long as I was shooting my brass from my guns and only reloading revolver rounds. But range brass from semi's? Nah, it's a HUGE time-saver. Thanks THR! You saved me aggravation again! ;)

EDIT: Wanted to add, for the OP, I have used the Lee FCD for a long time on all my pistol and rifle loads and it is, IMHO, a necessary product to have. It will correct most post-sizing problems with brass fired through over-size or Glockish chambers which tend to "belt" the base of the casing but it will not always correct all flaws. Also, having a gauge does not mean you can skip plunking your finished rounds. Your chamber is your chamber, not a generic chamber and a lot of European guns are not SAAMI spec chambers. Plunk and spin to get your COAL.
 
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My first batch of once-fired 40S&W brass has a bunch of them with obvious Glock bulges, The EGW 4-hole gauge is $18 today (6/9/21) at Midway. I just ordered one, along with a Redding G-RX Base Sizing Die Kit 40 S&W. I got the non-carbide one, it is half the cost of the carbide one. Since I will not be reloading for a Glock the cases will only go through it one time. I can lube them. I will sort the bulged cases out when I sort for headstamps.
 
Drill a 7/16 hole in a 1/2" steel plate. Chamfered input side of same hole. Lube case really good & drive base-first case thru hole w a 3/8 pin punch.
 
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