S&S Drop in kit

After reviewing the Brownells and Wilson Combat You Tube demos regarding 1911 disassembly/reassembly and spring replacement I gathered up the tools and opened the Cylinder & Slide drop-in Tactical II stainless kit (I got it on sale for under a hundred bucks a few weeks ago). It says it should provide a 4.0 trigger pull and should drop right in.



Brownells:


Wilson Combat:




My SA Ronin 9mm came with a 5 pound trigger pull that had a hint of creep. It shot well for me the first time I took it out, but I know the 1911 trigger can do better than that. (5 pull average.)



The Ronin trigger is not as nice as the crisp, creep free 3.5 pound factory pulls that came on my SA Loaded 5” or my Ruger SR 1911 4.25” .45 ACP’s. (5 pull averages.)





I won’t go j to the whole process, but take down was simplified with these how-to guides. I did make one error and fail to cover the Safety spring - plunger tube well enough with my thumb…so the spring and plungers launched onto my loading bench like a missile from a Navy frigate. At least the set didn’t end up under the bench or on a shelf so it was an easy find .

Reassembly took me a couple of tries to get the sear spring fingers correct, as first I had the longest one out of position. The best part is the thumb safety popped right into place and needed zero filing or other finish work to operate correctly.

Once all was set correctly in place and the safety checks confirmed the thumb and grip safeties were operating properly, I reassembled the Ronin 9mm and tried 5 trigger pulls with the Lyman gauge. It’s now right at 4 pounds and creep-free, which is a full pound less than the factory trigger setup.



I’ll be at the range on Wednesday for a full safety/function check and to see if my shooting is any better now.

I must say that slowly and carefully working on my own guns is pretty darn rewarding, thanks to all of you who have shared your tips, successes and mistakes here over the years.

Stay safe.

Steve in Allentown said:

It sure is. Just wait until you start doing your own trigger jobs and getting safe, reliable, smooth 3lb trigger pulls without having to buy new parts.

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Ya, I’ll need a few extra hammers, sears, triggers, etc so I can practice on them and learn the correct ways without ruining the good (to great) guns haunting in my safe…

Minor bits like these are fun. I’m not anywhere near the “hand filing/tuning” of these critical parts level yet.

Maybe someday…

Stay safe..

I’m simply a Glock and 870/1100 armorer so I can get those guns working again if something breaks, I’m not a gunsmith by any stretch. When I retire (in a couple of years) I’ll have the time to spend learning the proper way of working on critical action parts like sears, triggers and hammer interfaces. I wanted to improve the 1911 I had without messing up a perfectly functioning pistol with a Bubbaed up, risky trigger because I took off material in the wrong place or wrong amount .

Since many (Most) of us are capable of removing a side plate or popping a few pins to change a spring or swap a hammer, I thought I’d share the results in case someone was wondering how similar work on their guns should turn out. It’s not hard, just takes a bit of time to drop these parts in and get a noticeable improvement that is safe and reliable.

I’ll tackle these smaller and less skilled-labor intensive firearm improvements until I learn the much more advanced stuff you’re doing.

Stay safe.

I took it out and ran a quick 50 WWB 115 FMJ through it.

15 down to 7 yards, even with a magazine of fast double taps the gun kept them all in the 9 ring on a B-27 with no light strikes or other issues. (I touched the 9-8 line on a couple of shots )

If it wasn’t 101 in the shade when I got free to shoot I may have fired another 50.

Stay safe.