"Drop in" 1911 action kit disappointment...paging Tuner

[trbon8r]

I just got done doing some work on a project Springfield 1911 GI pistol. I installed a "drop in" action kit from a reputable vendor. The workmanship looked top notch and used quality bar stock components for the hammer, sear, and disconnector. The kit also included a mated sear spring and mainspring. The trouble is my trigger pull isn't much better than with the factory Springfield parts. It may even be a touch harder, but with less creep.

During the kit install I also installed an original GI small shelf safety, checkered GI trigger, and checkered mainspring housing. The trigger does have a fair amount of play, both up and down and side to side. I'm not sure if that would have any affect on the trigger pull? Basically, I'm looking for ideas on what other things I should be looking at as the culprit besides what I've mentioned. Thanks.

 

[olyeller]

GI small shelf safety, checkered GI trigger, and checkered mainspring housing

these are NOT drop in, nor are any parts, in all guns.

 

[trbon8r]

Thanks for the inevitable lecture about "drop in" parts. Like I didn't know that was coming. I never said the safety, trigger, or mainspring housing, are drop in parts. Only the action kit was described as a "drop in", which we all know isn't exactly a foolproof proposition.

I was simply trying to provide as much detail as possible about what was changed on the gun. The thumb safety fit and was used in the gun without issue using the stock fire control components. The mainspring housing took a small bit of relief work to fit, and the new in wrap GI trigger as I pointed out is rather loose and went in without any mods at all. If need be, I can remove certain parts one by one and return the stock components to help isolate any problems. Before I do that I just want to know which components could possibly be a source of the problem.

 

[highorder]

The trigger does have a fair amount of play, both up and down and side to side.

Trigger slop has to do with the physical dimensions of the trigger pad in relation to the broached trigger channel in the frame.

I bought a Wilson trigger for my RIA, but the pad was too small. It was sloppy top to bottom, so I changed it for a trigger with a taller pad.

 

[Jim K]

In GI guns, GI parts are normally "drop in", even safeties. On current pistols, that is not always the case.

But even if parts do "drop in", it is never certain they will work better than the originals, no matter what the "kit" maker claims.

Welcome to the world of the Model 1911. We have a zillion people making guns and parts and kits and every other accessory known to man, so we should get it right any century now.

Jim

 

[Eric F]

So I take it that you kept the stock main spring right?

Try getting one in the 18 pound range..........be sure to do all of your safety checks when done.

 

[trbon8r]

Eric F,

No, there was a main spring that came mated with the action kit. That is what I used. Thanks for the suggestion. I could always try swapping in the original spring and see what happens.

 

[Eric F]

hmmm......I might try bending the leaf spring some but my memory fails me as to which leaf to bend and I am at work with out my books......I will get back to this tomorrow but I will eagerly follow this thread to see what turns up. Did the kit say what the main spring was rated at?

 

[krs]

Less creep, a crisp trigger. Despite using a slop fit trigger with, presumably, no overtravel adjustment.

You were expecting magic?

 

[Nowhere Man]

If you used a C&S kit, the mainspring is 18lb IIRC. Too light to be reliable in my SA Loaded. I switched to a 19lb.


Dave

 

[trbon8r]

Eric F,

Unfortunately the kit didn't say what pound spring was used. I can try to email the guy I bought it from and ask. Thanks for the suggestions.

KRS,

I don't recall saying I wanted a trigger blessed by David Copperfield. All I want is a usable service grade trigger pull. My goal with this gun was to install some original GI parts to give it more of an authentic WW2 look, and put an action kit in to clean up the trigger pull while getting rid of the factory MIM guts. That shouldn't take magic, voodoo, or witchcraft.

 

[krs]

That shouldn't take magic, voodoo, or witchcraft

It will be that, or a certain knowledge and a modicum of skill.

 

[trbon8r]

It will be that, or a certain knowledge and a modicum of skill.

Feel free to enlighten us with your knowledge. I thought it was pretty clear that was why I posted in the first place, or are you just here to provide us with sarcasm?

 

[Eric F]

did you ever get the problem fixed?

 

[loadedround]

I wonder what the trigger pull results will be after firing 200 to 300 rounds. I would also consider getting rid of the sloppy GI trigger and buying a quality one with an overtravel adjustment screw from a reputable vendor like Brownell's This trigger may have to be slightly fitted but should be an easy job.

 

[olyeller]

sorry for being curt with you.
by saying

GI small shelf safety, checkered GI trigger, and checkered mainspring housing

these are NOT drop in, nor are any parts, in all guns.

I was trying to tell you that all three of these parts that are not drop-in, interact with your "drop-in" ignition parts.

Any one or more of these can influence your trigger pull.

My suggestion would be to put all the stock parts back in along with the ignition kit, and then fit the trigger, then the mainspring, then finally the thumb safety.
This will help seperate where you might be having issues.