Next step with K38

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velocette

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In my journey to having a revolver well suited for my club's PPC competition, I've been slowly and carefully working on my K38 revolver.
Today, I re-cut the barrel's forcing cone and slightly chamfered the mouths of the chambers in the cylinder.
I rented the proper tools from 4D Reamer Rentals LTD in Kalispell Montana. Got them in 2 days. They allow 7 days plus shipping time. I was done it 2 hours.
Now the 11 degree forcing cone is smooth, even all around and just waiting for that first wadcutter to force into the rifling, headed for the X ring (I hope). The chamber mouth cutter just took the edge off the mouths of the chambers to permit speedloaders to work better. (remember to remove the extraction star before you assault the cylinder.)
The work was easy and done gently, slowly and minimally removing metal until the desired contour has been achieved.
The revolver is now done as far as I am confident in taking it. Red dot sight, Re-crowned barrel, Re-cut forcing cone, Wood grips contoured for my (arthritic hands), chamfer of charge holes, new springs and internal action smoothing. Now the only thing I need for success is for the target to stop moving it's X ring out of the path of my bullets. :)
I want to comment on the service of 4D Reamer Rentals. Fast shipping, the tools were spotlessly clean and very sharp. I could ask for no better.

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I shot two basically stock S&W Model 686s in PPC. They were fine! Never owned a Model 14 nor the K38 predecessor. I heard good things about them but never found one.


Eventually went to a S&W Model 64-?, that was rebuilt by Davis into a competition revolver. It was okay also. My favorite was the S&W Model 15-4 and the S&W Model 25-2 for competing in PPC. Both put me on the winners podium.


Kevin
 
Cool!

Two quick questions; what was the cost of rental/shipping and did you have to pull the barrel from the gun or can you cut the forcing cone still mounted in the frame?

I have over a dozen S&W .38’s -.357’s and cleaning up the forcing cones and chamfering the cylinders is something I would like to do.

Thanks!

Stay safe.
 
Rio;
The forcing cone can be re-cut without pulling the barrel. It is easier if you remove the cylinder. Go very slow and carefully. NEVER turn the reamer backwards, if you do you will soon own a damaged reamer. Remember to remove the ejection star before trying to chamfer the cylinder mouths. Cost of the rentals can be had at 4D's website.
 
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