FL-NC
Member
If it gets your gun clean, I guess it works. After the cleaning part is done, I would re-lube all the metal with motor oil.
WD40 And Displacing Water
- Thread starter bassjam
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OP
OP
bassjam
Member
Why motor oil? Just because of the cost?
I use ALG Very Thin Grease on the slide rails and Eezox on the other bits.
csirre
Member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2022
- Messages
- 32
What category of oil in the world you believe is the most heavily researched and competed? What oil describes its specifications in the most detailed fashion? I believe it's motor oil. I was so surprised to find that it does not even have to be fully synthetic to outclass any gun oils. It not only lube very well, but oiling your gun with it also leaves longer lasting protection. (Car wax/sealant is great against rust too.)
OP
OP
bassjam
Member
Motor oils are designed to work in a specific set of conditions which are entirely different from the needs of a firearm. I used to be buddies with a mechanical engineer whose father was a chemical engineer specializing in lubricants. It was fascinating to talk to him about the specialized equipment he worked with, like gear housings you could stand up inside and the required lubricant for that application was solid enough to stand on at ambient temperatures.
Now I'm not going to say motor oil will cause any type of failure in a firearm, I myself have been using 10w30 in one of my AR's as an experiment. But it's not accurate to say they "outclass any gun oils". As you can see here Pennzoil doesn't fare so well in lubricity nor corrosion resistance compared to many gun oils:
https://dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
FL-NC
Member
It is cheap and it works as a lube and rust preventative. I buy a quart of the cheapest store brand motor oil at auto zone for the cleaning bench. No idea what the specs, viscocity, weight, etc. are because it doesn't matter. And a quart lasts a LONG time.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
Heh...I LOVE stories on the origin of WD-40, if only because they go against the history as documented on WD-40's own website!
Three employees of Rocket Chemical Company set out in 1953 to "createa a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry". Since water displacement is critical to corrosion prevention, it was called "Water Displacement" with the actual number associated with the successful formulation they came up with on the 40th try. Hence "WD-40".
First use was by Convair "to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion". Employees liked it so much they "snuck some cans out of the plant" (read: stole) to use at home.
After a few years, Rocket Chemical Company set about coming up with an aerosol can product to put on the market in San Diego in 1958.
https://www.wd40.com/history/
Every once in a while a thread starts up concerning WD-40, as well as various cleaners and lubricants that people use on their firearms.
The best cleaners and lubricants are, hands down, those designed specifically to be cleaners OR lubricants. Not both.
Lubricants, penetrants, and water displacers are not the same. Some products may have multi-function purposes, to be sure, but the combining of so many functions necessarily means compromise along the line.
To be a good cleaner, you need something that's going to REMOVE the dirt/oil/grease.
To be a good lubricant, you need something that's going to adhere to the metals long term and not evaporate or lose its viscocity.
To be a good penetrant, you need something that's going to very easily wick into tight spaces.
To be a good corrosion inhibitor, you need something that uniformly adheres to the metals long term and does not evaporate.
TO BE SURE:
Many things will work. Some will work better than others. Some will work less well than others. Some will flat out suck. Some might work short term, but gum up the works in the long term. Some are optimal under certain circumstances and less so in others. Some will work fine in some guns (like more forgiving revolvers) and less so in others (like pistols which moving slides and such).
If you want the best performance out of a lubricant, then use something that's specifically designed AS a lubricant. Compromise in the short term, if you must, but for long term use an actual lubricant. Same for penetrants, cleaners, etc.
And use it as frequently as is called for by practice/use. If you clean and store your firearms annually with no problems (operationally, corrosion, etc.), then obviously the product you're using is perfectly suitable. If not, then either change the product or change the environment.
I really don't get the bruhaha some people have over this or that "magic" product. To be sure, there's money to be made for the people advertising their brand of magic gun juice.
WD-40 is NOT designed, nor intended, to be a lubricant, cleaner, etc. That one can use it this way under some circumstances doesn't change that. It is something designed to displace water and coat metals with a corrosion inhibiting layer. It has volatiles in it and is not stable in terms of lubricating characteristics over the long term.
Will it HURT a firearm? No. Can it foul it up over time? Yes. Will it help with corrosion prevention? Yes. (But then, so will cosmoline.)
This is a thread about WD-40 and displacing water. It will certainly perform that function, and the OP described a perfectly acceptable way of addressing the issue he is most concerned about. There are several ways the OP could accomplish his goals, but in the end he's got a clean, dry gun that he's properly lubricated. Personally, under the circumstances he described, I would have cut out the middleman (not used WD-40) for the reasons I described earler.
Three employees of Rocket Chemical Company set out in 1953 to "createa a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry". Since water displacement is critical to corrosion prevention, it was called "Water Displacement" with the actual number associated with the successful formulation they came up with on the 40th try. Hence "WD-40".
First use was by Convair "to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion". Employees liked it so much they "snuck some cans out of the plant" (read: stole) to use at home.
After a few years, Rocket Chemical Company set about coming up with an aerosol can product to put on the market in San Diego in 1958.
https://www.wd40.com/history/
Every once in a while a thread starts up concerning WD-40, as well as various cleaners and lubricants that people use on their firearms.
The best cleaners and lubricants are, hands down, those designed specifically to be cleaners OR lubricants. Not both.
Lubricants, penetrants, and water displacers are not the same. Some products may have multi-function purposes, to be sure, but the combining of so many functions necessarily means compromise along the line.
To be a good cleaner, you need something that's going to REMOVE the dirt/oil/grease.
To be a good lubricant, you need something that's going to adhere to the metals long term and not evaporate or lose its viscocity.
To be a good penetrant, you need something that's going to very easily wick into tight spaces.
To be a good corrosion inhibitor, you need something that uniformly adheres to the metals long term and does not evaporate.
TO BE SURE:
Many things will work. Some will work better than others. Some will work less well than others. Some will flat out suck. Some might work short term, but gum up the works in the long term. Some are optimal under certain circumstances and less so in others. Some will work fine in some guns (like more forgiving revolvers) and less so in others (like pistols which moving slides and such).
If you want the best performance out of a lubricant, then use something that's specifically designed AS a lubricant. Compromise in the short term, if you must, but for long term use an actual lubricant. Same for penetrants, cleaners, etc.
And use it as frequently as is called for by practice/use. If you clean and store your firearms annually with no problems (operationally, corrosion, etc.), then obviously the product you're using is perfectly suitable. If not, then either change the product or change the environment.
I really don't get the bruhaha some people have over this or that "magic" product. To be sure, there's money to be made for the people advertising their brand of magic gun juice.
WD-40 is NOT designed, nor intended, to be a lubricant, cleaner, etc. That one can use it this way under some circumstances doesn't change that. It is something designed to displace water and coat metals with a corrosion inhibiting layer. It has volatiles in it and is not stable in terms of lubricating characteristics over the long term.
Will it HURT a firearm? No. Can it foul it up over time? Yes. Will it help with corrosion prevention? Yes. (But then, so will cosmoline.)
This is a thread about WD-40 and displacing water. It will certainly perform that function, and the OP described a perfectly acceptable way of addressing the issue he is most concerned about. There are several ways the OP could accomplish his goals, but in the end he's got a clean, dry gun that he's properly lubricated. Personally, under the circumstances he described, I would have cut out the middleman (not used WD-40) for the reasons I described earler.
Reloadron
Contributing Member
Well figure it this way, WD 40 has been around since 1953 and was likely commercially available shortly after. Does it remove rust, displace water and prevent corrosion? Yes, absolutely it does. How great it is for use on guns is one of those things which gets debated over and over again on any gun forum. If WD40 works for you then by all means use it, if you believe WD40 will gum up your gun and render it less than optimum then don't use it. There is no shortage of gun solvents and lubricants out there. If Mobil 1 oil or grease trips your trigger than by all means use it.
If that works then stick with it. Seems OK to me but then too not my gun.
Ron
If that works then stick with it. Seems OK to me but then too not my gun.
Ron
Col. Harrumph
Member
I haven't read this thread through to the end so pardon me if it's already been said, that if you lack an air compressor, your local camera shop sells "air in a can" for clearing dust off lenses.
tactikel
Member
Ziplock bag. When I fly fish, my phone, keys/fob, bug, wallet all go in ziplock bags. If I breach my waders they survive.
My LCP fits easily in a sandwich bag with a spare magazine.
My LCP fits easily in a sandwich bag with a spare magazine.
Last edited:
RetiredUSNChief
Member
This is an excellent idea, and in my experience the freezer bags are the absolute best for this. Name brand, like ZipLock, not generic.
Whenever I go fishing on the lake with my oldest brother, my phone goes in a freezer bag. On a canoe trip with another brother, it got doublebagged for the duration, just in case.
Sometimes I want a nice, soaking bath instead of a shower (like when I occasionally pull a muscle). I'll slip my tablet into a gallon freezer bag and relax in the tub while reading a book. (Touch screen still works through the plastic.)
chicharrones
needs more ammo
For those of us that change the oil in our cars, we always have some extra motor oil around. From back in the day with traditional dino oil or the modern synthetics, I've never had a problem using motor oil on guns. Some motor oils are kinda stinky, which may affect the needs of hunters, but not other shooters.
The only thing I like the super thin gun oils for (like Rem Oil) is how well it can work into tight spots. Like the triggers and hammers in metal framed autoloaders.
The real point is to use some sort of lubrication when lubrication is needed. I can't tell you how many machines I work on that never got lubed by the customer, and when I arrive to replace worn out parts they fret about the type of oil (or grease) they didn't use.
The only thing I like the super thin gun oils for (like Rem Oil) is how well it can work into tight spots. Like the triggers and hammers in metal framed autoloaders.
The real point is to use some sort of lubrication when lubrication is needed. I can't tell you how many machines I work on that never got lubed by the customer, and when I arrive to replace worn out parts they fret about the type of oil (or grease) they didn't use.
robin banks
member
- Joined
- May 15, 2022
- Messages
- 333
once they put a heavy coat of WD on the rocket it turned into a heavy wax which allowed the missile to slip thru the atmosphere a lot easier
AJC1
Member
Submerge in.paint thinner or mineral spirits, blow off with compressed air and relube. It's that simple and anything aerosol will drain the bank account for no reason.
lemaymiami
Member
Posted my concern about ammo sprayed with WD40 (or any spray lube actually) in post #28... Read every post since -and no response from a pretty educated crowd... Sure would like to hear if anyone has heard of this. Down here in south Florida we were warned about it in writing in the late seventies to early eighties era (technical bulletin widely disseminated) - Dade county alone had 27 different police departments back then (the number is larger now....)... Ammo that looks just fine but won't fire due to compromised primers isn't funny at all when you might be relying on it in the blink of an eye - yet still have to maintain a service revolver in a high heat, high humidity - nearly marine environment day after day... To this day I never use any kind of spray lube on ammo - just clean and polish each round carefully with a dry cloth. Any sign of corrosion that doesn't polish off means that round goes out of service...
RetiredUSNChief
Member
The question for me would be "why would someone spray down ammunition with WD-40 or any other lube in the first place?"
The primary concern is to keep the firearm in good condition. Simple, routine cleaning/lubrication commensurate with the environment is perfectly adequate for this. My EDC doesn't get cleaned/lubricated frequently based on the typical environment in which I carry. However, if my environment changes, I'll pre-emptively clean/lubricate based on that. An example is the time I went on a multi-day canoe trip with a brother of mine and I ended up immersed in the river along with my carry. When I got out, I unloaded my firearm, field stripped it, slung all the water I could out of it, and let everything dry in open air and sunlight, including my leather holster. When everything was dry, I reassembled my weapon, hand cycled to ensure it operated smoothly, and went about my business. Several days later, when the canoe trip was over and I was home again, I stripped, cleaned, and lubricated my carry and loaded fresh defensive ammo. The wetted ammo presented no problems at the range at a later date.
Modern ammunition is pretty water tight. Temporary exposure to water, whether from rain or total immersion, has been proven not to be a concern. There is no need to do anything special to waterproof modern ammunition.
However, there ARE prudent actions one can take if things become wetted:
1. For general ammunition storage, keep it in a cool, dry place. You can accomplish this in any number of ways, which I'll leave up to the individual. While immersion for short terms may not cause a problem, long term issues which may lead to actual moisture penetration or corrosion are definitely concerns.
2. Keep your field ammunition separate from your stored ammunition.
3. If your ammunition (or firearm) get wetted, take the time to remove excess moisture and dry it out. Short term wetting may not be a problem, but long term may.
4. After a wetting, at some convenient point simply rotate your wetted ammo out with fresh ammo and relegate the previously wetted ammo to the range.
tws3b2
Member
Bought my Remington 700 30-06 new in 1975. Hunted usually 3 days a week during season. Rain, Fog, Snow, Ice, Temperatures down to 0, for over 33 years. During season it got sprayed and wiped down with WD40 pretty much every hunting day. Wiped down with WD40 every cleaning. I got old and had to give up hunting and shooting big calibers. I still have that same Remington 700. I keep it in a metal gun cabinet with no dehumidifier, no dry packs. Two times a year it comes out to be cleaned and wiped down with WD40 and nothing else.
It's Never had any parts repaired or replaced. It's Never failed in Any Way What So Ever. It's Never seen a speck of Rust. I would say the bluing and wood finish is over 90 percent. EVERY gun I own gets wiped down with WD40 after every cleaning or 6 months if not shot.
I don't need the internet Hog Wash.
I have the Real Proof. Nearly 50 years of it.
It's Never had any parts repaired or replaced. It's Never failed in Any Way What So Ever. It's Never seen a speck of Rust. I would say the bluing and wood finish is over 90 percent. EVERY gun I own gets wiped down with WD40 after every cleaning or 6 months if not shot.
I don't need the internet Hog Wash.
I have the Real Proof. Nearly 50 years of it.
Buzznrose
Member
I read this thread and learned a LOT about navy ships and zip lock bags….and a few things about WD-40!
Cool posts. But it’s an LCP. I wouldn’t overthink it.
I do think the post about the ammo was relevant. Didn’t see a good reply? Did I miss it?
Cool posts. But it’s an LCP. I wouldn’t overthink it.
I do think the post about the ammo was relevant. Didn’t see a good reply? Did I miss it?
Scout21
Member
Do you take care to keep it off of the wood? I'm always scared that the WD-40 may damage the wood finish so I stress about making sure it doesn't come in contact with the wood. It's not something I want to find out the hard way, but I'm curious if my fears are unfounded.
Scout21
Member
I've repeatedly heard of military members being barred the use of WD-40 on their service weapons due to the tendency of WD-40 to decommission ammo. At the same time I've seen at least one test where a guy thoroughly coated ammo as well as bare primers with WD-40 to no effect. I'm not sure what to believe. Although, frankly, I don't see a reason to lubricate ammo or protect it from corrosion in the first place, so for me it's a moot point.
Buzznrose
Member
tws3b2
Member
I do not intentionally spray it on the wood. Most times I will remove the wood on most guns so I can wipe wd on the under side of the barrel, breech and everything metal. On something like lever action I usually don't remove the stock. Just the wood forearm. If I do get it on the wood, no big deal. Just wipe it off. I wipe it on metal with one rag and lightly wipe off with another. I will usually use the wipe off rag to wipe down the wood.
I've Never had any problems or bad affects of wd on any gun finish.
Photo, My near 50 year old, wd protected
Remington 700 30 06.
Scout21
Member
Ah, I thought you were talking about getting WD-40 on ammo. My bad.
tws3b2
Member
This is my made in 1978 H&R 650. It too has always been protected by WD40. Nickle Finish. Never any fails or problems.
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