I was wonder if anyone Uses WD-40 after cleaning a gun? Just to displace the water. My idea is to clean the gun. Then WD-40 the gun in the ultrasonic cleaner. Let dry then lube with normal type gun oil as usual.
WD40 residue will eventually harden. Might be a concern for small internal parts. I would use Ballistol diluted in water rather than WD40 in an ultrasonic cleaner. Ballistol will leave a light coating after the water evaporates and does not harden when dried out. If you mix it with hot water it will dry out quickly. It’s really a guess since you say you will lube with gun oil after WD40. I guess my point is cleaning with Ballistol in solution does not require a second step. Let us know how it turns out.
They make a special lube for this already. Its expensive. Read a few things that it smells and feels similar to wd40 only its tinted red. This is a must I guess after a sonic cleaning to prevent rust in areas you cannot get too. For price reference a gallon of the hornady or lyman cant remember which one I looked at. Cost is 80 bucks a gallon Wd40 is 20 bucks a gallon.
i hear that is another method. however in hard to reach areas or trigger group type areas it isnt a guarantee i guess?
You should avoid using anything in an ultrasonic cleaner that has a flashpoint as low as WD40. https://lucasoil.com/products/out-door-line/lucas-extreme-duty-bore-solvent-ultrasonic-gun-cleaner https://www.ultrasonicsdirect.com/guncllu.html https://iultrasonic.com/gunlube-l5-ultrasonic-firearm-lubricating-solution-1gal/
Compressed air is what I use then CLP. I run my ultrasonic cleaner at about 200 degrees F. It cleans better and quicker when hot and water evaporates quicker when hit with an air gun connected to a compressor. After spraying with CLP I blow the majority of the CLP off with the air gun. I have never had a problem with residual water with compressed air and CLP... assuming the gun is field stripped. I remove wood grips before cleaning.
You can also put it in a toaster oven at about 120º for a few minutes. I clean my parts with a mixture of water and ballistol as it lubricates as well as cleans and it emulsifies with water. I've never had any rust issues doing it this way.
I'm never in that much of a hurry. Usually entirely let them air dry, sometimes blow off with shop air. That will get into anything, but especially when very clean, easy to see water beading or skimming, so you can tell if it's dry under the air pressure or not. When dry, re-oil as usual, wipe excess, look for dry spots, re-oil until all good to go. I don't think I even own WD40 anymore. Most things have their place, but I have grown to fully hate that stuff.
Well this looks to good too be true. https://www.ultrasonicsdirect.com/guncllu.html Have you used this?
A mild solution of hot water & Dawn or aircraft safe Simple Green for cleaning. Hot water rinse. Isopropyl alcohol for removing any residual moisture. Lubricate as needed.
I use "EDs RED" in mine to clean pistols and small parts. I put small parts in a glass beaker to keep them separated, I don't put wood grips in it but everything else goes in when I remove it I wipe everything down with a cloth and reassemble lubricating as needed, it makes cleaning the barrel easier.
I agree, and I sonicate disassembled parts to avoid unintended parts rubbing due to the sonic waves. And I NEVER sonicate sights.
While I benefit from an Arizona climate - it still may apply elsewhere. I find that using my U-S cleaners with the high heat leads to almost too fast and full evaporation as it is. Todd.
