Scope rail on 10/22 coming loose

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Scout21

Scout21

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About a year ago I put the stock scope rail on my 10/22 and mounted a scope. Shortly after I began to notice the scope rocking ever so slightly back and forth, I removed the scope and found that it was the rail that was loose. I removed the rail and reinstalled it with blue, medium strength Loctite. It remained tight for a longer period of time, but it has finally begun to loosen again. Both times I tightened them to a point that I felt comfortable that they shouldn't back out. I've got a 12 ounce scope on it and I'm not throwing the rifle around, so I'm quite surprised that I'm having issues with it coming loose. Any suggestions?
 
Pretty common problem with the 10-22. How many screws are you using? What size? If 6-48 then going up to 8-40 might help. Also consider bedding the scope base. The top of the cast receiver is often irregular and offers limited contact with the base. That is also true of more expensive centerfire guns, too.
See this link for instructions - Scope Base Bedding (murphyprecision.com)
 
BBBBill said:
Pretty common problem with the 10-22. How many screws are you using? What size? If 6-48 then going up to 8-40 might help. Also consider bedding the scope base. The top of the cast receiver is often irregular and offers limited contact with the base. That is also true of more expensive centerfire guns, too.
See this link for instructions - Scope Base Bedding (murphyprecision.com)
Click to expand...
I'm using all four screws. I don't know what size screws, they should be whatever Ruger provided with the rifle. I sorta wish they used hex screws instead of slotted screws.
 
I would check what screws you have, can buy hex if that is what you prefer for not much $$. Make sure to degrease the holes also before installing.

I rarely have things back out with lok tite on it (even the weaker version which is almost all I use) but it happens.
 
Ohen Cepel said:
I would check what screws you have, can buy hex if that is what you prefer for not much $$. Make sure to degrease the holes also before installing.

I rarely have things back out with lok tite on it (even the weaker version which is almost all I use) but it happens.
Click to expand...
I cleaned the holes with alcohol and cotton swabs before each installation. Given that even Loctite isn't holding them in I'm a bit perplexed. I've never had this issue with a centerfire rifle before. I'm tempted to crank down on the screws, but I'm leery considering the action is aluminum.
 
Verify the length is not too long, bottoming out as the base tightens. If so shorten the screw. If your not using a torque wrench your just guessing. I thought I was torquing some to spec till I actually checked with a torque wrench and found I only about 3/4 of what I was shooting for.
 
Blue68f100 said:
Verify the length is not too long, bottoming out as the base tightens. If so shorten the screw. If your not using a torque wrench your just guessing. I thought I was torquing some to spec till I actually checked with a torque wrench and found I only about 3/4 of what I was shooting for.
Click to expand...
The length is perfect. It sits flush with the inside surface of the reciever.

I've never needed a torque wrench before, tightening by feel has always been sufficient. I'll probably look into getting one, though, it can't hurt.
 
I worked in a gun shop for a couple of years. 10/22’s came in a few times with this issue. All of them were a result of the receiver being stripped. Alloy receiver and steel screws. Check to make sure that isn’t the case here. Off the top of my head I don’t know what the torque setting is for that set up but as a start to solving the problem I’d use a torque wrench like a Fat Wrench and torque to Ruger specs using the Loctite if everything else is ok.
 
Frulk said:
I worked in a gun shop for a couple of years. 10/22’s came in a few times with this issue. All of them were a result of the receiver being stripped. Alloy receiver and steel screws. Check to make sure that isn’t the case here. Off the top of my head I don’t know what the torque setting is for that set up but as a start to solving the problem I’d use a torque wrench like a Fat Wrench and torque to Ruger specs using the Loctite if everything else is ok.
Click to expand...
The threads didn't appear to be stripped when I reinstalled the base last time. I was concerned that that was the issue, but, fortunately, it didn't seem to be. The screws thread right in with relative ease.
 
Alcohol is not the ideal solvent for that application. Try lacquer thinner, applied a couple times, after the first application has thoroughly dried. Lacquer thinner has several solvents in it, one of which will do the trick. And treat both the holes and the screws. Talking about blue Loctite here, of course. With at least a couple hours to cure.
 
Scout21 said:
I'm tempted to crank down on the screws, but I'm leery considering the action is aluminum.
Click to expand...
Don't do it.

Your "leeriness" is completely correct as the receiver is softer aluminum. (Don't ask me how I know :oops::p)

In recent years, I have done quite a bit of scope testing/comparison and have stripped my share of aluminum threads and finally bought an inch/lb torque wrench (Mine is $44 Tekton brand but $19 Harbor Freight brand should work as well) to properly torque scope rail/mount bolts with blue Loctite.

I am using larger, heavier 20-24x50mm scopes and no more loose bolts - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...a-while-recommendations.908019/#post-12351937

If threads are stripped, then you need to tap and use larger diameter bolts.
 
LiveLife said:
Don't do it.
Click to expand...
That statement was a bit tongue-in-cheek. I've stripped enough aluminum threads in my life to tread carefully. In fact, I may not be tightening them tight enough. I'm pretty certain that the threads are in good shape. I'll be checking soon to make sure.

This is irritating, though. Squirrel season is right around the corner so I really need to get this fixed.
 
Scout21 said:
I don't know what size screws, they should be whatever Ruger provided with the rifle.
Click to expand...

6-48 is standard across most manufacturers. 8-40 requires retapping the holes to the larger size,but they are stronger.

Scout21 said:
I'm tempted to crank down on the screws, but I'm leery considering the action is aluminum.
Click to expand...

This reply for anyone reading this thread - Don't! 20" inch pounds is the max torque for those screws in steel to avoid snappint the head off. A bit less in aluminum due to the risk of stripping the hole threads. If you don't have a torque wrench/don't want to but one (I strongly recommend you do), then turn till snug with finger tip pressure only, then go 1/4 turn more and STOP!
I cannot stress enough just how uneven the top of a 10/22 receiver can be even though it may not look like it. When you have uneven contact it increases the stress on the screws and can cause them to walk out if not snap off (unlikely on a 22). Bedding can solve that.
 
Is the OP running the small base that came with older 10/22's?
Junk it and get a Weaver or similar.
Also, don't overtighten the screws.
As has been mentioned its very easy to strip em on a 10/22.

Going 8-40 may require modifying your 6-48 equipped scope base.

The solution for stripped 10/22 holes can be found at Brownells.
Its a slightly larger screw. They sell a tap also. That does not mandate a scope mase mod.
If the base was for 6-48 it will work w these screws.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-48-screws-12-pack-sku080719212-795-3104.aspx

I have fixed a couple, my kit now at a buds, using it to fix a non 1022 w a boogered 6-48 hole.
 
The threads aren't stripped. The screws thread in just fine. I've again remounted the rail with some Loc-Tite and tightened the screws a little more tightly than I did previously. I'll see if it holds this time.

I emailed Ruger and they immediately told me to send it in. I'm going to give it another chance before sending it in.

Just to reiterate, I'm using the Ruger supplied rail with what I believe are Ruger's slotted screws. After some looking around it appears that Ruger now uses hex head screws for the rail. Can anyone else confirm that Ruger used to use slotted screws?
 
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The ultimate solution is to go with a new receiver that has an integral rail. Brownells puts theirs on for around $120.00 every once in a while. Money well spent IMO.
 
I think they make a purple loc-tite. It's stronger than the blue. But not as permanent as the red. The semi-auto cycling is rough on keeping things tight. On my Marlin 60's. The rings would walk on the dove tail. I put red where the rings squeeze the dove tail. It worked i was happy.
 
The purple is the approx the same strength as the blue, but it's designed for small screws, < # 5. They make a wicking grade that is high strength (green). Normally the blue will hold if every thing is clean and the screws torqued properly.
 
I have had the same thing happen. This is the nature of Aluminum. It expands and contracts with heating/cooling more than steel does. Letting it cool between mags will help, so will going to a larger screw, as already mentioned. A torque wrench is a must to keep from under torque or stripping out the threads. I think Ruger uses slotted screws so you are likely to strip the slots before stripping the reciever. I also plan to get rid of the slotted screws and use hex or torx screws the next time I tear mine down. I'll just have to make sure I don't ever try tighten them without using the torque wrench.:cool:
 
The last ruger I bought used torx screws for their rings I'm guessing they may have the same for the scope base.
I bought bases for my 10/22 that uses Ruger rings had the rifle for ages neither the rings or bases have moved.
 
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