DeepSouth
Random Guy
My tip, either stick to 7 round mags or spend a lot of money on the 8 rounders, they are finicky unless they’re expensive. At least that’s been my experience, with The 8’s you get what you pay for.
Thanks for the info. I will check with the GS tomorrow. The guy who ordered the part is into 1911s and builds them. I think he understood I was looking for a drop in, and maybe that is not the case. If not, I will cancel. Not important enough to monkey with filing on the gun. I have a leather glove with no fingers that I wear and it handles the GI style fine. I actually had some reluctance as the beaver tail style will affect the GI look of the gun, so either way I am happy with it. Not even sure the image I posted is the one he ordered. It was a Wilson Combat.
Avoid filing on the gun...if you must file, do that to the part you are installing. Opt for oversized parts that you can sand/file a tiny bit at a time and fit/function check. Filing on the frame or slide can be an expensive mistake.
Just curious if you have seen "that" part installed on an unmodified 1911 frame. You might take a close look at it before you pay for it. I've found that it leaves a lot of gaps and sharp edges exposedI think it must be this one, which is "drop in," though a video says minor fitting of the trigger engagement area will be required. Well surely the minor fitting would have to be on the part because I definitely am not filing on the gun.
Good point. However it may be the only way to get a beaver tail without custom work by a gunsmith. So might be worth a shot. So long as the sharp edges don't impact my hand when shooting, it might be workable, though it could look a little funky.Just curious if you have seen "that" part installed on an unmodified 1911 frame. You might take a close look at it before you pay for it. I've found that it leaves a lot of gaps and sharp edges exposed
I've never measured any of mine. I go by feel...how deliberately do I need to grip the frame to depress the grip safety enough for it to disengageSo that means the grip safety only has to travel 0.03" to disengage the trigger. That seems pretty slim. I would think if the travel is 0.12" the ideal spot for disengagement would be around 0.06 or even 0.08".
Avoid filing on the gun...if you must file, do that to the part you are installing.
Before trying to add a beavertail safety to a frame and slide designed for a GI safety and hammer, try changing the grips. A grip that fits your hand and allows greater control over the pistol can make a world of difference. The Wilson drop in beavertail and commander style hammer will not fit on the Tisas GI or Tanker pistols.Thanks for the info. I will check with the GS tomorrow. The guy who ordered the part is into 1911s and builds them. I think he understood I was looking for a drop in, and maybe that is not the case. If not, I will cancel. Not important enough to monkey with filing on the gun. I have a leather glove with no fingers that I wear and it handles the GI style fine. I actually had some reluctance as the beaver tail style will affect the GI look of the gun, so either way I am happy with it. Not even sure the image I posted is the one he ordered. It was a Wilson Combat.
This is a Colt MK IV "Enhanced" Commander from back in the 90's. It came with one of the silly and very annoying, not to mention, painful to shoot with, "Ducktail" grip safetes. They really suck! It didnt take me long to take a file to it and it looks like this now....There are a variety of different styles of beavertail grip safeties, and some minor difference in GI grip safeties. Beavertail difference range from sweep of the beavertail (how long it is) and what frame contour they are designed to fit. Not everybody's GI grip safety will fit other guns since there are so many makers and they all are a little different. As often said - there are no drop in parts on a 1911.
Common ones you may see other than a beavertail or GI, are two from Colt, the "Ducktail" and the "Rattail".
The ducktail is like a beavertail, but sweeps down rather than up. Colt used those for several years on their XSE models. You don't see those very much anymore.
The rattail is really just a modified GI grip safety that allows the use of a "Commander" style rowel hammer. This is also not common anymore.
I have a Commander that I picked up used that came with what appears to be a Wilson "drop in" beavertail. It had very precise and sharp "points" on each corner of the beavertail, and a fairly large gap where it met up with the frame. Those gaps let the meat on my hand get in where the points would poke and scrape and were painful. I ended up taking a jeweler's file and some emery to them and rounded things off. Much better now.Just curious if you have seen "that" part installed on an unmodified 1911 frame. You might take a close look at it before you pay for it. I've found that it leaves a lot of gaps and sharp edges exposed
Wilson drop in will not fit any gun with a GI style hammer. Needs either a commander hammer or a bobbed hammer. Not going there. Already got a refund for the part. The guy who ordered it was not there but the person I talked to today knew instantly it would not fit. Well, I know who not to get advice from at this gun shop.Before trying to add a beavertail safety to a frame and slide designed for a GI safety and hammer, try changing the grips. A grip that fits your hand and allows greater control over the pistol can make a world of difference. The Wilson drop in beavertail and commander style hammer will not fit on the Tisas GI or Tanker pistols.
Wilson drop in will not fit any gun with a GI style hammer. Needs either a commander hammer or a bobbed hammer. Not going there. Already got a refund for the part. The guy who ordered it was not there but the person I talked to today knew instantly it would not fit. Well, I know who not to get advice from at this gun shop.
So the grip that fits my hand. That would be a fatter grip to widen the grip area of the gun?
Another tip, use the forum to your advantage, ask first.So I just ordered a better grip safety...
Another tip, use the forum to your advantage, ask first.
"I have this GI style Tisas, I'm thinking of ordering this beavertail grip safety. Will this work with my gun's current configuration."
Wilson drop in will not fit any gun with a GI style hammer. Needs either a commander hammer or a bobbed hammer. Not going there. Already got a refund for the part. The guy who ordered it was not there but the person I talked to today knew instantly it would not fit. Well, I know who not to get advice from at this gun shop.
So the grip that fits my hand. That would be a fatter grip to widen the grip area of the gun?
Well, the logic behind detail stripping and cleaning your 1911 is the same, whether we are talking about the slide or the frame - the purpose is to keep your firearm functioning properly.The logic difference would be the volume of powder residue that accumulates in the firing pin and extractor channel is significantly greater than what will accumulate anywhere in the frame.
My son in law was in a unit that had 1911s when in the sand box. Given the almost unlimited funds that the unit had, they choose to buy the most problematic mags I have ever worked with, namely shooting star 8 rounders. I have never had an issue with any 7 round mag be it WWII surplus or Wilson 47.My tip, either stick to 7 round mags or spend a lot of money on the 8 rounders, they are finicky unless they’re expensive. At least that’s been my experience, with The 8’s you get what you pay for.
Same here, I’ve never had an issue with any 7 round mags, no matter how old or cheap. But I’ve had problems with most 8 rounders, only exceptions being some (not all) of the Wilson Combats, and Chip McCormick’s.My son in law was in a unit that had 1911s when in the sand box. Given the almost unlimited funds that the unit had, they choose to buy the most problematic mags I have ever worked with, namely shooting star 8 rounders. I have never had an issue with any 7 round mag be it WWII surplus or Wilson 47.