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Just learned about the firing pin test. Says to use a pencil. I used a dowel. Here is one with a pencil someone posted:
1911 .45 ACP Tips and Tricks
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Another thing I got from reading up on 1911s, though blatantly obvious to one who gets familiar with the mechanics, is the reason you need to drop the magazine to release the locked open slide. Otherwise you are fighting the magazine spring trying to push the slide release down.
JTQ
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Yeah, that is incredibly common for somebody to claim their gun isn't working right when they can't get the slide release to drop the slide.
My first trouble shooting question is do you have an empty mag in the gun? Take the empty mag out or put a loaded mag in the gun and your slide release will now release the slide.
The gun is designed to lock the slide open on an empty mag. If you have a good mag spring and follower, and a good slide stop, it should be extremely difficult if not nearly impossible to drop the slide with an empty mag in the gun.
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trackskippy
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If you move the slide rearward a little on an empty mag, the slide stop is a lot easier to release, and with little effort. You dont have to drop the mag.
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Well I don't know if this is a trip, trick, or something else, but my finger grove insert arrived. Installed in a couple minutes. First thing I noticed is it makes he have to grip the gun slightly lower, which maybe will help with the grip safety spur bash issue I have been experiencing. Also, three of the grip screws did not come out of the bushings but brought the bushings with them, so I just screwed them back in bushing and all to mount the grip insert. Well of course it spoils the look of the gun but then it can be removed at a later date if I so desire. The other thing is it makes getting a stuck magazine hard to remove since the tang on the magazine is flush with the rubber grip part. P.S. I am a terrible photographer and my cheesy flip phone does not help.
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You should probably deal with those grip bushings. At least some Loctite on the threads of the bushings (not the screws). If not, they can become an issue if you arent careful.
They have very fine threads, and are easily damaged/stripped, if you arent careful and paying attention when dealing with them.
Im dealing with that right now with a gun Ive had for a long time and has had a couple of bad holes ever since I got it. As a matter of fact, I just ordered an oversized tap and a set of bushings to deal with it this afternoon.
They have very fine threads, and are easily damaged/stripped, if you arent careful and paying attention when dealing with them.
Im dealing with that right now with a gun Ive had for a long time and has had a couple of bad holes ever since I got it. As a matter of fact, I just ordered an oversized tap and a set of bushings to deal with it this afternoon.
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I was careful that they went in easy, given they were attached to the grips they were pretty well lined up to the holes and not likely to cross thread. But I I ever get one screwed up, it will be a gunsmith who puts the new, oversized one in, because I hear once you screw up the oversized bushings you are in deep, deep trouble. I would guess this could be the weak link of these guns. But hey, if it came down to it and the gun was a cheap beater I might just glue the trips on!
For now, not messing with them. Also for the locking stuff I hear there are several grades (at least the Permatex version of Loctite) and the wrong one, too strong, could make replacing a bushing a nightmare.
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Blue Loctite/thread locker usually works OK.
Did you back the screws out of the bushings when they came out, or just screw them back into the frame together with the grips?
Making sure you dont strip the grip screws needs attention as well. If the bushings are coming out with the screws, then they may have been cross threaded, or over-tightened. You want to deal with that too, and make sure things are good there too.
This isnt as much of a big deal if you love your grips and dont ever take them off (and you see how that goes). Ive usually run into it when I bought a used gun and was swapping the grips out, and/or the screws were loose and I found trouble trying to snug them up.
Its one of those things that is what it is, and its just something that pays to deal with before it becomes an issue. Its usually a simple, quick, one time fix if you take care of it.
Or, you wish you never took the grips off.
Did you back the screws out of the bushings when they came out, or just screw them back into the frame together with the grips?
Making sure you dont strip the grip screws needs attention as well. If the bushings are coming out with the screws, then they may have been cross threaded, or over-tightened. You want to deal with that too, and make sure things are good there too.
This isnt as much of a big deal if you love your grips and dont ever take them off (and you see how that goes
). Ive usually run into it when I bought a used gun and was swapping the grips out, and/or the screws were loose and I found trouble trying to snug them up. Its one of those things that is what it is, and its just something that pays to deal with before it becomes an issue. Its usually a simple, quick, one time fix if you take care of it.
Or, you wish you never took the grips off.
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I did not back the screws out of the bushing, figuring more chance to mess it up if I try to grip the threaded part of the bushing. The bushings went in smoothly so I am pretty sure they are good, but your point about the screws being cross threaded is good to keep in mind. Probably want to blue lock the bushings, let it cure, then try to remove the screws, but that only if I need to go back in there. For now, am good. Well, a detail strip would require removing the grips I think.Blue Loctite/thread locker usually works OK.
Did you back the screws out of the bushings when they came out, or just screw them back into the frame together with the grips?
Making sure you dont strip the grip screws needs attention as well. If the bushings are coming out with the screws, then they may have been cross threaded, or over-tightened. You want to deal with that too, and make sure things are good there too.
This isnt as much of a big deal if you love your grips and dont ever take them off (and you see how that goes
Its one of those things that is what it is, and its just something that pays to deal with before it becomes an issue. Its usually a simple, quick, one time fix if you take care of it.
Or, you wish you never took the grips off.
jar
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Fix problems early. Don't just say "Good enough".
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JTQ
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Good video. First, he used the red, which is the permanent stuff. He did say, they will "never" come out.
I have Permatex in the blue. I feel better using the blue as what if you did need to change out the bushings? That red could be a bit tough to undo.
I have never used the stuff, but apparently from the video we don't have to slop it all over the threads, just a dab at one side will do it. So, maybe I will do that next time I have occasion to remove the grips.
The new grip insert is nice in two ways. It not only adds bulk at the front for the finger grooves but also fattens the grip by about 2mm as the insert sides lay under the grips adding a bit of thickness. We'll see how she shoots.
That's the response that lead to that saying originally
Why would you need to change bushings?
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I had a bushing problem a couple of years ago and followed the Brownell's video. I used the Blue, so far so good.
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If for some reason the inside threads of the bushing are stripped. Or if one wanted thinner grips as in this video. But chances are, I would not need to change my bushings.
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The M1911 Complete Owner's Guide, Walt Kuleck, says the grip screw bushings are supposed to be staked into the frame from the inside. Searching online indicates that inside of the bushing hole is to be chamfered then a punch and staking tool used to flare the bushing threads on the inside after it is installed. This will prevent it backing out but also has potential to mess up the frame threads when the bushing is removed. If my bushings had been staked, they should not have come out. So either staking or loctite but not just screwed in. I don't plan to stake them, so loctite if I have occasion to remove the grips again. I am more comfortable with the blue loctite as the red might take heat to loosen, or a solvent.
The guy in this video says to use Guntite, the blue stuff. I assume Loctite, Permatex, Guntite are all similar.
The guy in this video says to use Guntite, the blue stuff. I assume Loctite, Permatex, Guntite are all similar.
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When I went to the range after installing the finger grips and filing the grip safety spur more to get rid of all sharp edges at the back part of it, I shot 100 round without a glove and had no mark on my hand. My hands are big, not giant, but big and I think this helped make the gun fit better by adding material at the front strap as well as slightly fattening up the sides where the finger grip material lays under the wood grips.
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