conversion cylinder by Taylors and Co

The conversion cylinders are going to be Howell or Kirst, Taylor's is just an importer.

I have the Kirst gated conversion on my 3rd model Dragoon. It's one of my favorite sixguns.

I have the Howell on my Uberti Remington New Model Army.



It works well.



Slow to reload, but faster than reloading with loose black and ball.

I've always wondered about these…Do you have to get them through an FFL?

Frulk said:

I've always wondered about these…Do you have to get them through an FFL?

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No, it's a "part" not a firearm.

Mike

Here's a pair of Kirst's in 45acp-


Here's a Ruger Old Army with a Kirst cylinder and a Bisley style hammer and trigger-


Mike

Ordered from MidwayUSA and delivered to my rustic door.

45 Dragoon said:

Here's a pair of Kirst's in 45acp-
View attachment 1207238

Here's a Ruger Old Army with a Kirst cylinder and a Bisley style hammer and trigger-
View attachment 1207239

Mike

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Hot damn! Those are nice!!!

I've thought about a .45ACP version for a Uberti SAA; let me shoot rounds that don't demand TrailBoss powder.
These are a drop-in proposition, and they time up correctly?
Moon

All I can say is the Howell cylinder for my Uberti 1858 dropped in with no fitting required and timed perfectly. That's the only one I have experience with.

Frulk said:

I've always wondered about these…Do you have to get them through an FFL?

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If the conversion cylinder is actually installed in the revolver, the combination is a "firearm" and has to go through an FFL like a modern gun. But if the two components are separate, it's not a "firearm." My understanding is that that's true even if the two components are mailed to you in the same package.

halfmoonclip said:

I've thought about a .45ACP version for a Uberti SAA; let me shoot rounds that don't demand TrailBoss powder.
These are a drop-in proposition, and they time up correctly?
Moon

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I have the Cattleman II in .45 lC. Got the 045 ACP cyl. from Taylors. The only thing i had to do was to fit the base pin hole to the frame. Locked up perfectly. As far as powder, i use Greendot for .45 LC

deadeye dick said:

The only thing i had to do was to fit the base pin hole to the frame.

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Tell me a little more about this.
I use 4.6/Bullseye as a softball .45 ACP load. It's maybe 50'sec behind hardball.
Moon

AlexanderA said:

If the conversion cylinder is actually installed in the revolver, the combination is a "firearm" and has to go through an FFL like a modern gun. But if the two components are separate, it's not a "firearm." My understanding is that that's true even if the two components are mailed to you in the same package.

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I'm guessing the gang bangers don't see a future in six shot hoglegs, not that gun laws often engage reality.
Alexander, that is amazing, and thank you.
Moon

halfmoonclip said:

Tell me a little more about this.
I use 4.6/Bullseye as a softball .45 ACP load. It's maybe 50'sec behind hardball.
Moon

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7.0 Bullseye for me under a 200 GR. Berrys plated RN. or 7.6 GR Greendot. 6.4 of HP38 for 230 GR lead cowboy load. These are L/C loads
To fit the ACP cyl all you need is a fine mill bastard file. The cyl. comes with a over size base pin cylinder bushing that needs to be fitted to each individual frame. If you really want to do this i can PM you more details. I did this for the first time and it came out perfect.

halfmoonclip said:

I'm guessing the gang bangers don't see a future in six shot hoglegs, not that gun laws often engage reality.
Alexander, that is amazing, and thank you.

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Just to be clear, we're talking about a cartridge conversion cylinder in a percussion revolver. Not about going from .45 LC to .45 ACP in an SAA. The gun is going to be a "firearm" regardless. (Unless it was actually made prior to 1899.) The extra cylinder is just a part.

I have a Howell Conversion in .45 Colt for my Uberti 1858 New Army .44 and it works perfectly for shooting. The cylinder safety notches are too shallow to safely load all six cylinders and carry it. Also, actually swapping out the factory cylinder with the Howell isn't quick. But for a range toy, it is more than satisfactory.

I purchased the gun and the conversion cylinder together on the used market as a packaged set. Personally, I wouldn't buy a conversion cylinder separately for a cap 'n ball revolver. The costs associated with new conversion cylinders in no way is beneficial for a shooter other than being a cool gimmick.

The fun of cap 'n ball revolvers is using loose black powder, ball, and caps.

If I wanted to shoot cartridge ammunition, I'd shoot my cartridged guns.

And if I wanted a historically correct gun, I'd buy the factory cartridge conversion pieces like what Uberti offers.

I bought the conversion cylinder because I felt like it. I'd already owned the revolver for a bit of time;







One day I thought to myself, "Self,", (and I knew it was me because I recognized my voice and I was wearing this week's underwear), I said, "Self, lets explore black powder cartridges" since Da Boy had expressed an interest in the concept of "rapidly" reloading black powder boom. So, the cheapest way to do so was to get the conversion cylinder for either the 1858 NMA or the 1860 Army. I don't like having to take the whole barrel assembly off, so I got the one for the New Model Army, and after a little playing with it and figuring out exactly how to rotate it so the hand easily drops into place. It's slower to reload than a 1873 Single Action Army or any revolver like that, much less any modern revolver, but faster than with loose powder and ball! Of course, I am NOT going to get into a gunfight with Black Bart in Main Street at high noon with this firearm, but it sure is fun.

Miami_JBT said:

I have a Howell Conversion in .45 Colt for my Uberti 1858 New Army .44 and it works perfectly for shooting. The cylinder safety notches are too shallow to safely load all six cylinders and carry it.

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I have Howell 5-shot conversion cylinders for both my Uberti and Euroarms (Armi San Paolo) 1858 Remingtons. The chamber walls are thicker, meaning that this design of cylinder has more reserve strength. And the safety notches are on the side of the cylinder, rather than on the back as on the percussion cylinders. So it's the bolt, and not the hammer, that locks the cylinder in the intermediate safe position. Therefore loading all 5 chambers in this type of cylinder is just as safe as loading 5 in a 6-shot cylinder.

docwharden1881 said:

Have anyone used one on a Uberti reproduction of Whitneyville Dragoon? I have a dragoon but it is cap-n-ball and not converted to .45LC/.45 Schofield.

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I have one on an uberti carbine and one on a pietta. Bith work fine. Not much if a load in a 45 acp case but still fun.

Miami_JBT said:

I have a Howell Conversion in .45 Colt for my Uberti 1858 New Army .44 and it works perfectly for shooting. The cylinder safety notches are too shallow to safely load all six cylinders and carry it. Also, actually swapping out the factory cylinder with the Howell isn't quick. But for a range toy, it is more than satisfactory.

I purchased the gun and the conversion cylinder together on the used market as a packaged set. Personally, I wouldn't buy a conversion cylinder separately for a cap 'n ball revolver. The costs associated with new conversion cylinders in no way is beneficial for a shooter other than being a cool gimmick.

The fun of cap 'n ball revolvers is using loose black powder, ball, and caps.

If I wanted to shoot cartridge ammunition, I'd shoot my cartridged guns.

And if I wanted a historically correct gun, I'd buy the factory cartridge conversion pieces like what Uberti offers.

New Army Conversion, Army & Navy Conversion, Open-Tops | Uberti USA Replica Rifles and Revolvers

www.uberti-usa.com

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You mean YOUR revolver is a "cool gimmick" and not much of a shooter.
That's a pretty "broad brush" you have there sir. Mine don't seem to conform to anything you describe . . .

Mike

Miami_JBT said:

The costs associated with new conversion cylinders in no way is beneficial for a shooter other than being a cool gimmick.

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Can't agree with that either. For me it's the difference between a regular shooter and an occasional, every couple years sort of thing. In fact, I don't even remember the last time I shot cap `n ball. I'll take the "gimmick" every time!

CraigC said:

Can't agree with that either. For me it's the difference between a regular shooter and an occasional, every couple years sort of thing. In fact, I don't even remember the last time I shot cap `n ball. I'll take the "gimmick" every time!

View attachment 1207989

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Oh look, a factory conversion. Not an aftermarket Krist or Howell conversion. If you actually read the entirety of my post. I said those are worth it.

I said:

"The fun of cap 'n ball revolvers is using loose black powder, ball, and caps.

If I wanted to shoot cartridge ammunition, I'd shoot my cartridged guns.

And if I wanted a historically correct gun, I'd buy the factory cartridge conversion pieces like what Uberti offers."

Meaning that a BP gun factory converted to shoot metallic cartridged ammunition is worthwhile. The aftermarket swappable cylinders ain't that great of a deal considering costs.

A set up like this isn't cost effective if purchased separately.



Again, I have a Uberti 1858 and a Howell Conversion for it. I purchased it together used. I specifically purchased it together used, because it was cheaper than buying a new conversion cylinder alone for my Piettas.



Here is the average price for a Pietta 1858 cap 'n ball.



Here’s the average price for the Howell conversion cylinder for said Pietta.



That's over $600 once you factor in tax and shipping. A factory conversion to shoot nothing but metallic cartridges is the same price range and has far less issues.

You get a loading gate, don't need to take the cylinder out to reload it, and you get an ejector rod.



The Howell Conversion doesn't do any of that.

Also, as I said the safety notches on my Howell cylinder are cut too shallow to safely allow six to be loaded and actually carried.



Again, my stance is that buying a cap 'n ball revolver, then buying an aftermarket swappable conversion cylinder is not worth it. It is only economically sound when you can buy them together.

I paid less than $400 for my Uberti and Howell combo. But that was because I found someone selling it for a loss.

Miami_JBT said:

Oh look, a factory conversion. Not an aftermarket Krist or Howell conversion. If you actually read the entirety of my post. I said those are worth it.

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Nope. It began life as a full flute percussion 1860. Surely, it would've been a lot cheaper to buy a factory conversion but two things. They don't make them in .45ACP and I didn't do it to save money.

I don't care for the drop-in cylinders and will agree that it is usually beneficial to just buy the factory conversion, if that's what you want. Especially if you want to load a pseudo-authentic .44Colt and not fool with heeled bullets. However, some folks already own a percussion gun and just want the option. Others may want what they cannot buy.

deadeye dick said:

To fit the ACP cyl all you need is a fine mill bastard file. The cyl. comes with a over size base pin cylinder bushing that needs to be fitted to each individual frame. If you really want to do this i can PM you more details. I did this for the first time and it came out perfect.

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I'm taking that all you need to do is shorten the base pin cylinder bushing, to achieve a proper fit in the frame. That makes sense as not to tough a job.

I'm not after a cap and ball conversion; did sell away a Ruger Old Army, which was a ball to shoot. It was also fiddly to load and shoot; dedicate a couple three hours for a range run.

The ability to fire ACPs in a .45 Colt Taylor Smokewagon makes a certain amount of sense...though I'll have to really think about how much I'm apt to shoot it.
Thanks, deadeye.
Moon