Saiga-12 function test

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Cheeseybacon

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I just bought a Saiga-12 this past Saturday at a gun show. I've wanted one of these things for a long long time, but was too chicken sh*t to convert one, and too cheap/impatient to buy/then wait for a Tromix Saiga. I finally broke down and got one and I ended up ordering all the parts for the conversion the same day. Just tonight I finally had an opportunity run some shells through it and do a basic function test and I have to say I am shocked and kinda disappointed.

Maybe this gun just requires a break-in period, but I had an absolutely terrible time with it. I ran 100 shells through it, using both the stock 5-round mag and an AGP 10-round mag and out of the two only the AGP magazine fed completely without any malfunctions... and that was just one time only, right at the end of the shooting session. I was experiencing stovepipes/failure to eject for the most part, however there were several of occasions in which my impatience/desire to rapid fire caused a malfunction because I pulled the trigger before the bolt had fully returned forward, which I assume kept the firing pin from correctly hitting the primer, if it ever made contact at all. It seemed more reliable if I watched the bolt return fully forward before pressing the trigger again. While that did work a little better, it was kinda disappointing as I was certain I'd be able to shoot faster this thing faster, especially after seeing videos of various nuts out there bump firing these things.

I'd like to hope that it was the super sh*tty ammo that I was using that was causing all of the problems. I have heard so many stories about the Saiga's legendary reliability and monotonous GLOCK-like consumption of a wide variety of ammo, so I figured I could get away with the $13 100-count box of Winchester "universal" from Wal*Mart. I guess I was wrong. I'm going to try a few boxes of something else a little bit less "bargain basement" tomorrow and see if that clears up.

So assuming that this problem continues tomorrow and ammo isn't the problem, what else could it possibly be? I cleaned this thing within an inch of it's life and generously lubricated it (not that it's supposed even to matter with an AK, I'm told) before shooting it, and I had the gas regulator on "2", which is the correct setting for light loads. I hope these problems aren't exacerbated when I convert it back to the original AK-style configuration.
 
Saigas are designed to run on fullpower loads. so if you were using light shot then its gunna MALF. hell my Winchester Model 12, the finest shotgun ever made hates that white box bulk crap. and its a PUMP!

I pulled the trigger before the bolt had fully returned forward, which I assume kept the firing pin from correctly hitting the primer, if it ever made contact at all. It seemed more reliable if I watched the bolt return fully forward before pressing the trigger again

i cant imagine what you mean by that. the hammer should not fall untill the bolt returns to battery.

do a function test

1. clear the gun. take out the mag check the chamber
2. check the chamber again.
3. pull back the lever. check the chamber, and ensure no mag in place
4. let the bolt go into battery and pointing in a safe direction. dry fire
5. retract bolt still holding trigger, let bolt back to battery ( still ensuring empty chamber). let go of trigger, listen for reset
6. if reset dry fire.

check the safety too. just because
 
That's unusual -- although the second report I've seen today about S12 problems. I got mine about 2 weeks ago and it chewed through some Remington #7.5 with no problems at all. The reputation for reliability is well deserved...so it makes me wonder what's going on with your gun.

I'll be curious to see if the ammo makes a difference. You didn't lubricate the gas tube, did you? That's a no-no on a Saiga. How did it look when you got back from the range? Did the lube attract a bunch of crap?

Jim
 
The Winchester cheap stuff has been generating a lot of bad ink lately. Do try the thing with decent ammo, betcha the probs diminish or vanish.
 
All I lubricated were the rails and bolt/bolt carrier with tetra grease, and the recoil spring assembly got a little bit of gun oil. I left the gas tube, piston and other components alone. Surprisingly, even after 100 rounds through it the innards look pretty clean, a helluva lot cleaner than my AR-15 would be after the same number of rounds, that's for damn sure.

I just did the function test as Hoppy590 instructed and everything checks out, so I'm hoping and praying now that ammo is to blame. The bolt did seem to be moving pretty slowly, I swear I could watch it travel the entire motion from battery, all the way open, and then back to battery again. Being my first autoloader shotgun and first AK-based weapon however, I figured this was normal since the bolt does have a pretty long distance to travel. I'm gonna buy a few boxes tomorrow that aren't super bargain basement cheap and see how they run. I am beginning to suspect that the loads I bought were so light that they weren't providing enough energy to fully push the bolt open with the necessary authority, because the gun experienced no hangups whatsoever when I rapidly racked an entire 10-round mag through it by hand.

Also, does anyone have any suggestions for refinishing this thing? I had been entertaining thought of possibly doing it while I had it apart for the AK conversion, but there is no doubt about it I'm definitely doing it now. After just one sorry-arse trip to the range this thing has all kind paint chipping off of it from every angle.
 
Check your gas setting if you're running light loads. Mine will surely stovepipe light shot if I set the gas on "1". It's a dial on the front of the gas chamber.

1 = buckshot and magnums
2 = light loads

You can shoot 3" magnums with the gas on "2" but it goes something like this:

BOOM! "OW!"
 
I definitely checked the dial. In fact, I even tried putting it on 1, thinking that perhaps I had somehow got the numbers backwards. Shooting a round on setting 1 resulted in a complete failure to cycle the action, so I definitely knew right then and there that 2 was the correct setting.

I'll let you guys know what happens tomorrow after a couple different brands have gone through it.
 
Even my Winchester 1400 balks on that cheap bulk Winchester stuff once in a while. If I buy 1 ounce high speed, it works okay and that's what I've been hunting dove with. It's the lowest power that will cycle the thing with reliability.

Buy some high brass stuff and try it before deciding it's the gun. My Winchester never balks on high brass like waterfowl steel loads.
 
Well I went to the store tonight and bought some Federal Game-Shok, and some Winchester Super-X. Wow, big difference. Every single damn round fed with out a single problem! Yesterday I noticed my shells (when then gun did cycle correctly) seemed to dribble off the side of the gun on to the ground right in front of me. Now the empty shells were being flung with authority, 15-20 feet away. It was definitely the ammo, I am so relieved. I ran both boxes through it, rapid firing my 10-rounder several times without so much as a single hiccup. The only problem I noticed was after I was finished I was insanely store and one of my shoulder muscles was erratically twitching a little. That being said, I hope I can find a target load that reliably cycles in this thing. :p

Can't wait to convert this thing!
 
"the $13 100-count box of Winchester "universal" from Wal*Mart".
Every thing I have heard about these guns is they don't like the light powered stuff. They are made for shooting high brass hunting loads so you should be looking form modertly powered shells.
I hear they like 2.75'' slugs a lot.

On the other hand I have my winchester 1300 (pumpgun) it has eaten every thing I have ever fed it with out ever malfuncting. Most of that ammo was cheap o federal shells, winchester AA shells and reloaded winchester AA shells.
 
Hopefully I will be able to find a load that is a nice compromise between a light target load and a full power hunting load. Can anyone with one of these monstrosities recommend a reliably-cycling target load? If I can't shoot anything less than full-power hunting loads, then I can't see myself shooting this thing often. :(

A guy on another forum said that he had good luck with Winchester AA "super handicap", so I guess I'm gonna give that a try tonight. If you've guys have any other suggestions, lets here them, I'm gonna go buy a bunch of different loads tonight and try them out.
 
I just shot my newly converted Saiga-12 the other day. It is some serious fun! I'm gonna Duracoat mine. I hit it with some gunscrubber after shooting it and the factory finish ran right off the receiver!

I shot S&B buck and some wolf slugs through mine. There were a few loose rounds of winny 7.5 too.
 
I've got several thousand rounds of the Walmart cheap bulk stuff through my Saiga. No that's not a typo. I would have to guess about 4,000. It has choked on that stuff twice.

If your gun is giving you trouble, then you should contact Russian American Armory, and have them take a look at it.
 
Have you tried the Federal or Remington bulk packs from Walmart? I suspect those will work a bit better.
 
Stop it with these Saiga-12 threads! Every time I read one, I get the hankerin' to buy one and perform a DIY conversion.
 
jfruser said:
Stop it with these Saiga-12 threads! Every time I read one, I get the hankerin' to buy one and perform a DIY conversion.

BWAHAHAHAHAHA! Now you've done it, I will definitely be PMing you a picture of my converted Saiga-12 now. :evil:

My dad and I have a date with the milling machine this Sunday. Oh man, this is gonna be nuts! :cool:
 
I've had issues with the Winchester cheap-o shells sticking to the inside of the magazine wells, causing a failure to feed as the bolt flies over the top of the round. I mean to LIGHTLY sand and graphite my mags, but haven't got around to it yet, and since all other brands I've tried work fine...

What other sort of problems have you noticed with your AGP mags? Ever since I took the original factory feed lips off my AGP mags to use AGP's new spring-steel lips, I get constant failures to feed as the angle of the shell isn't steep enough to hit the feed ramp: the middle of the shell's just gets mashed into the center of the bottom of the feed ramp.
The first time I'd asked AGP about it, they'd brushed me off with a "try different ammo". Factory mags work just fine with those same Federal slugs! :p ... I should ask them one more time for better mag lips...
 
jfruser said:
Stop it with these Saiga-12 threads! Every time I read one, I get the hankerin' to buy one and perform a DIY conversion.

Nah...you don't want to do that. Who would want to end up with something like this:

Saiga_S12.png

Jim
 
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Nah...you don't want to do that. Who would want to end up with something like this:

Anyone got a napkin, I keep drooling on myself........

How is the recoil on the Saiga with 2.75" buck loads? I was shooting slugs out of my Mossberg 500a this weekend and it was pretty painful.....
 
Navy87Guy, what kind of rail do you have on the top of that thing? Is it side-mounted or is it a receiver cover-mounted rail?
 
Cheesybacon said:
Navy87Guy, what kind of rail do you have on the top of that thing? Is it side-mounted or is it a receiver cover-mounted rail?

That's a UTG low-rise side mount rail. It goes right onto the rail on the side of the Saiga receiver. This version has three Allen-headed screws - there is also a quick-disconnect version. I got it from JSE Surplus (www.jsesurplus.com) - $29. It's aluminum with the Picatinny rail on the top and the side. It's nice because it centers the optics right over the barrel - not off to the side like some mounts do.

NCLivingBrit said:
How is the recoil on the Saiga with 2.75" buck loads? I was shooting slugs out of my Mossberg 500a this weekend and it was pretty painful.....

It's pretty stiff. I put a new recoil pad on there to see if it will help. It's the one the Russians use for grenade launching! I just haven't had a chance to get her to the range, yet.

(I updated the pic to show the buttpad, sling and PolyChoke.)

Jim
 
Update: My Saiga-12 is well into surgery. I have removed all of the internals and with the help of my dad the removal of the trigger plate and trigger guard were quickly dispatched. I ended up with cleanly removed parts AND a remarkably useful lesson in metal manipulation. It meets Mr. milling machine today to cut out the hole fpr the pistol grip nut.

I can't believe how insanely smooth this conversion has gone, thanks to the substantial help from my dad. He's been sloooooooooowly building an AR-15 for a few months now and I've decided the least I could do is spring for a nice match trigger for him. The low cost of conversion parts for this Saiga-12 ($96.54) + insane quality free labor from my dad ($0.00) has this conversion priced way way less than the basic Tromix conversion ($395) that I was originally going to do, so I don't feel all that bad about splurging on an AR trigger for him. Suggestions?
 
I can feed all kinds of loads through the "1" setting, unless I'm firing from the hip - birdshot doesn't like to eject.

I've read, though, that you could try backing the stopper (the gas setting selector) out 1-2 full turns, that would be an easy, no-cost fix.

Good luck on the conversion, I'm starting mine next week.
 
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