Ok.. now I've got to chime back in here. Let me first say, Roccobro, I don't mean to get personal here, I have no intention of "arguing" on the internet, but I do have to comment on some of that stuff because I believe it's important to give out the proper information since the proper function of guns and the safety of their users is an important factor in 2A advancements..
Here go's
I believe proper cleaning would alleviate this potential problem. But as most guns are used out in an unfiltered the environment, (and a WHOLE BUNCH are in use in the sandbox) I think this fear is unfounded.
Well.. not really. It's too vague to simply say "cleaning". Proper removal of most abrasive compounds on small interacting parts requires more than just a rub over with some solvent or oil and a rag/patch. As far as the "peice of sand" and "use in the sandbox" are concerned.. you're just way off on that like I tried to say before. Sand off the ground is not comparable and quite frankly has nothing to do with an abrasive paste compound or even to the aforementioned 1000 grit sandpaper. You mention JB's, and that's cheating !
JB's is a very different substance than most abrasive pastes and compounds and it's formulated specifically not come out all on its own after the fact. And the abrasive in it is SO mild that it doesn't do much of anything.It's called BORE CLEANER for a reason, would an abrasive meant to actually polish metal be used in a bore ? I think not. Although that does bring me to the next thing..
It is a common practice for old school Marlin owners to take a new lever gun and fill it with toothpaste to smooth the action. Or how about the quick and dirty trigger job for S&W snubbies using a mix of JB's and CLP? Abrasives? Absolutely yes. Problem? No, as they clean their guns afterwards.
Just because the bubbas do these things, does that make them appropriate ? The people that do this kind of thing are the ones that wind up bringing their guns into gunsmiths later to fix their mistakes more often than not. Bad Ideas all around. They may slick/polish the actions slightly, but they most certainly do not effectively align uneven material surface engagements. You said it yourself when you said "quick and dirty trigger job" .. well quick and dirty is not the way any trigger work should ever be done if you want it to be of any value.
Now.. on to the pictures of the polishing you posted. Let me be clear on the fact that I would have to see the function first hard to have the clearest indication of what needed to be worked on. I have 0% experience with the particular gun, but it looks simple enough that I can get a pretty good idea. But from what i can see.. Honestly.. I don't get it.
When you say "stoned all the flat areas of the parts to eliminate edge burrs from the stampings and in the bolt where the hammer may contact in it's swing." .. I think I see what you mean. You're saying you polished the rounded edge of the hammer (basically) right ? But that wouldn't affect anything except a smooth movement of the hammer to its sear/hammer notch engagement (when the gun is cocking the hammer), which is fairly useless in any case other than if you were getting malfunction due to casting so bad it was causing misalignment. From what I can tell you haven't affected the sear engagement at all, which makes it not qualify as a trigger job at all. I could be very wrong about this, because I can't see exactly what you did, but it doesn't look like the areas you worked on would actually affect the grit of the actual pull.
Again, I mean no insult in any of this, but in the interest of bettering general knowledge.. I can't help but state that I take issue with your statements and methods as helpful. Now If I'm right I'm right, and if I'm wrong then I'm wrong. All I can really say to the original poster is.. take everything you read on the internet with a grain of salt and reasonable doubt, whether it be from Me or anybody else