Anybody have a very short rifled barrel?

Sergeant Sabre · May 2, 2008

Alright, help me out here, guys. I'm totally on this short-barrel kick with my Mossberg 500. I love the light, compact handiness that is provides with the 18.5" cylinder-bore and the 20" accu-choke (see range report on 20" here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=360637).

Now, I've acquired a 24" fully-rifled barrel w/ cantilever mount. I have a wicked urge to have it cut down to 20" or even 18.5" to create a very short, light, compact, and powerful deer and pig hammer. I've never been obsessed with long-range. In fact, all of the deer I've ever taken (only 6) have been within 80 yards. If I want to air it out a bit, I have a scoped Ruger Super Redhawk .454 that I can stretch to 100yds or more.

The idea here would be to have a easy-carrying, maneuverable paradox rife that would put a serious hurtin' on about anything in the woods and most of the things behind a fence with the right slug. Plus, I kinda like stuff that is a bit different.

Am I nuts to cut 4" to 6" off this barrel, to bring it down to 18-20"?

Ghost Tracker · May 2, 2008

Does Mossburg not offer a short OEM fully-rifled barrel for the 500? If not, why not get a rifled choke to work with your existing 20" accu-choke? But if you're just hacksaw happy then...saw away. 18.5" should be plenty long enough to stabilize the slug.

Here's an idea, collect several brands/loads of modern, well-performing slugs & dust off (or borrow) a chronograph. Cut the barrel off a half inch at a time and note the results for accuracy & f.p.s.

If things begin trending IN THE WRONG direction...STOP! You might find, that with your preferred slug, 21.5" is perfect. Have some fun with it & good luck.

ScottyT · May 2, 2008

Speaking of hacksaws:
Ever since reading accounts of Eastern Europeans doing so 50 years ago for concealability purposes, I really want to give my Mosin Nagant M91/30 a serious chop on both ends (think 7.62x54r pistol), but I would have to go through the hassle of getting a class 3 weapons license...

But on topic:
I am looking forward to getting a 18.5" for my Remington 870.

--I just realized that with this being my third post I might come off as a mall ninja with my "sawed-off Mosin Nagant" talk -- I am really not, I promise!

kingjoey · May 2, 2008

If you want to chop your barrel, let me know. With a rifled barrel you're really going to need to turn it on a lathe and recrown it. A hacksaw job on a rifled slug barrel is going to have crappy accuracy.

220_Swift · May 2, 2008

but I would have to go through the hassle of getting a class 3 weapons license...

All you need to do is the paperwork, and pay the $200 for the tax stamp. As long as it is legal in your state.

Am I nuts to cut 4" to 6" off this barrel, to bring it down to 18-20"?

Your not nuts. I have a friend who did the same thing to an 1100 with catilever barrel. He had a smith cut his down to 18.5". It is still plenty accurate, and much more handy in the treestand.

Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow · May 2, 2008

No, not nuts. It would still cycle, being a pump. Would make for a handy carbine, if increasing recoil a bit. Should thump you pretty good, but the game, too. I'd cut it to right at 18.25" to leave a little legal cushion without paying the tax stamp etc. I wouldn't do this to a semi-auto - could affect cycling. As mentioned, no hacksaw - have a 'smith put it in a lathe to give you a good crown.

Sergeant Sabre · May 2, 2008

I wouldn't be doing it myself. Maybe I'd take it down with a pipe-cutter, then have a gunsmith crown it properly.

Does Mossburg not offer a short OEM fully-rifled barrel for the 500?

Not sure, but don't think so. The barrel I've happened into at a good price is 24", though.

RichardB · May 7, 2008

ScottyT, Test fire a Moisin Nagant M-44 carbine before butchering one of the long rifles. The carbines are dirt cheap. You might change your mind about wanting a smaller 7.62 x 54R.

TrapperReady · May 7, 2008

Maybe I'd take it down with a pipe-cutter

I tried a pipe cutter when I bobbed a Model 12 barrel back to 24". After a handful of turns, the blade of the cutter started breaking into pieces. Barrel steel can be very, very hard.

I ended up using a hacksaw and then some grinding stone chucked in a drill to square up the end and put a functional crown on it. If the barrel I was doing had rifling, I'd probably have a professional do it, since I don't have access to a lathe.

Sergeant Sabre · May 7, 2008

Wow I didn't think of that, Trapper. Very good to know. If I have it done I will probably spend the $40 to have a local 'smith do it.

In truth, I'll probably at least try this barrel out in the woods at its current length first.

Anybody have a very short rifled barrel?

Sergeant Sabre

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