A few single-action questions -

I use Hoppe's and haven't had any problems.

The cylinder bar (base pin latch) pushes from side to side to remove the cylinder pin (base pin). You don't need to take it apart to get the cylinder out. If it becomes unscrewed, you'll need to put a screwdriver on one side while you tighten it from the other side with another screwdriver. I've had that happen.

I always take the cylinder out to clean my Colt SAA. Less chance of scratching something and it allows you to clean the frame and barrel easier. Leaving the cylinder in and trying to clean it would be difficult and not very effective.

The "axle" that the cylinder spins on is called the "base pin" (Colt terminology followed by Ruger and ALL the various clones/near-clones). The spring-loaded cross-pin is the "base pin latch".

That is all there is to it...spring loaded base pin latch pushes to one side, (toward loading gate side, IIRC) pull base pin forward, and with the loading gate open, cylinder comes right out.

We should have asked; what kind (mfg) did you buy? And are you going to post some photos?

My SAA needs to be at half cock to remove the cylinder. I also remove the cylinder to clean it because removing it makes for easy cleaning of the cylinder and the area inside the frame.

Yes, please tell us the what you got, and congrats!

Your USFA's case color was by Turnbull Restorations. They apply a violin lacquer protective coat. I've not had any problem with CLP.

Whoever answered the phone at Turnbull was very helpful when I called - give them a shout if you have questions.

If it's a "Colt-type action" (including the USFA) you have to half-cock it to open the loading gate.

Rugers reload with the hammer fully down (1973 forward). Opening the loading gate on these Ruger locks the action so it can't be cocked at all.

Very nice.

If it's a Colt or one of the many clones, you DO NOT have to have the gun at half-cock to open the loading gate. To remove the cylinder, however, you do need to have the hammer at half-cock. This drops the cylinder stop (also called the bolt) and allows you to remove the cylinder to the right, with the loading gate open. You must also put the hammer at half-cock to replace the cylinder.
After replacing the cylinder and base pin, always pull the hammer all the way back to full-cock before easing it forward. This allows the cylinder to rotate to the correct position so that the cylinder stop drops into it's notch, and will help you avoid drag lines around the cylinder.

What he said.

SAAs and near replicas are mystical creatures that can be shot a lot without getting turn lines. Provided you do your part with the half-cock drill.

The only downside to this is that you may be accused of keeping a safe queen when you're really not.

To remove the Colt (and clones) base pin latch, you need two screwdrivers, one regular slot type, the other a split screwdriver.

A properly timed SAA of that type will drop the bolt into the leade (that arrow shaped cut ahead of the bolt notch in the cylinder), so the cylinder is not marked by the bolt. Few are properly timed from the factory. No big deal, as the line on the cylinder is purely cosmetic and does not affect functioning. (S&W's are designed to drop the cylinder stop [as they call it] halfway to the next notch, so marks are normal and it is pointless and unnecessary to try to "correct" that "problem".)

A really well tuned Colt SAA will have the hammer stop on the backstrap just as the cylinder bolt drops in the notch and just after the trigger clicks into the full cock notch. That keeps the hammer from "fighting" the cylinder bolt and eliminates strain on the bolt, hand and ratchet. Again, lotsa luck getting a gun like that from any factory.

Jim

Base pin latches are best left alone until they work loose and need tightening.

Do Not, for any reason, just take one apart for the Halibut.

Normally they may be Lock-Tighted at the factory, or not.
But they commonly come unscrewed from shooting, along with all the other screws in the gun, at some point in the guns life.

A fitted Colt SAA screwdriver set would be a very worthwhile investment to keep your beautiful gun looking that way for a long time!

I believe the Brownell's set below includes the slotted blade bit needed for the base pin latch nut.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...?p=25458&title=COLT SINGLE ACTION SCREWDRIVER

The Grace set below doesn't.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=25554&title=COLT SCREWDRIVER SET