My new WASR-10

Status
Not open for further replies.

lions

Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2008
Messages
1,204
Location
Kansas
I just picked up my new rifle yesterday. All of the horror stories about WASR-10s don't seem to be true about this one, no canted front sight or gas block, minimal mag wobble, finish is far from beautiful but better than I had heard. Only thing left is test the accuracy which I can't wait to do. I do have a few questions though: On the rear sight what does the "P" stand for? I assume it is the setting that will keep the bullet never more than X amount above or below POA. I just have to know what it is short for, its driving me nuts. Also, I want to put something on the wood to protect it, I'm thinking tung oil but does it make the wood appear much darker? I like the color it is now. Last question, bayonet won't go on, any ideas? I can't see what is obstructing it I was just wondering if there is a common problem to check that anyone knows about?

Now for pictures:
1234001.jpg
1234003.jpg
1234002.jpg
 
I bought my WASR-10 last Spring. It's a good one but they dealer had 3 with canted sights on the table with it.

Can you get a WASR-2 with the bayonet lug and WASR-10 muzzle brake?
 
I never had a problem with my WASR-10, I have about a thousand rounds through it and I had one mag it didn't get along with (until a visit to a dremmel) but other then that no problems. Maybe it is an entry level gun, but It does everything I have asked of it. As for the P I always thought it was for "point blank" but thinking about it they use a different language where it wasbuilt so I bet it isn't that simple.
 
jaholder1971 said:
Can you get a WASR-2 with the bayonet lug and WASR-10 muzzle brake?
No.

You'll have to retrofit it yourself with an un-neutered front sight block (this will contain the 22mm muzzle threads, bayo lug and all that good stuff).

Or you can just thread the barrel, if you want to use a 14mmLH muzzle device, but this won't get you a bayo lug.
 
Just to be clear, it has the bayonet lug and everything I want. I just can't get the thing on. Just looking for advice as to where to dremel or whatever needs done.
 
Nice wasr you got there.Make sure you clean it very well and be sure to look for small metal shavings .As far as your bayo thats a good one mine was a real pia to put on so it never got mounted on the rifle often.Thew "p" is your standard battle setting,its good for anything under about 100yrds.The only only thing you can do about mag wobble without altering the gun is buying bulgy waffle mags(circle 10).Good luck with her and be safe. 10-19-07018.jpg
 
P is the battle setting. Supposedly you use it if you don't know how far the enemy is. It should be combat accurate from 0-300 meters, IIRC.

This site should help a bit:
http://www.gunsnet.net/Linx310/

I put tung oil on my WASR's wood and it did not change the color very much. It's pretty smooth too and doesn't get funky from hand and cheek sweat like a glossy finish will.

Check the buttstock for the cleaning kit. It'll have the tool to adjust elevation at the front sight. It looks like a tiny steak fork.

Clean it THOROUGHLY. There's cosmoline in every nook and cranny. Lube it well, buy a case of Golden Tiger, and go to town. Mine took about 200-300 rounds before it broke in. Not a problem since then.
 
I just bought a WASR last Thursday in celebration of the SCotUS ruling. No canted front sight, no mag wobble, no jamming/missfires, no trigger slap and pretty much as accurate as I expected an AK to be. I've got 180 rounds through it thus far. Great weapon for the $$.
 
Basic water seal to protect the wood. Also, get one of those TAPCO sight adjustment tools. Any time you hear someone complain about poor groupings, it's probably because they didn't adjust their sights.
 
All of the horror stories about WASR-10s don't seem to be true about this one.

Nice purchase BTW...welcome to the club as it were.I love mine...no problems to speak of and at first I listened to the 'rumors' about the WASR-10's and chose to buy one and find out myself.

No problems,love it...
 
I have had my WASR-10 for about 5 years now, and have shot it quite a bit (no idea on round count, I really dont track that kind of thing), and love it. No issues at all, and it's plenty accurate for my needs.

Also, I want to put something on the wood to protect it, I'm thinking tung oil but does it make the wood appear much darker?
Tung oil seems to have darkened the wood on all the stocks I have personally ever put it on, but only slightly. Certainly not anything remotely extreme. The change is fairly subtle. I sanded the stock on mine, put a thin coat of Minwax stain on it that was just a little darker than the original color, then a really light coat of tung oil, and it really came out pretty darn nice, IMHO.Also redid all the metal with flat black Rustoleum high temp (1400 F) BBQ paint, and it looks better than the stock finish, and is way more durable IMHO.Hope you enjoy yours as much as I do.

Here she is:
WASR-10GPfull.jpg
 
Just curious: where did you get it? Local dealer or internet order?

I'm thinking of grabbing a cheap WASR for a fun range beater, but haven't had much luck finding one lately.
 
The new WASR-10's are much better than the old ones. The trigger slap and canted sights are seldom found anymore, and the magwell cuts have gotten MUCH cleaner, too. You will still have to smooth the lips out a bit with some 600-800 wet-dry paper just to get a smooth edge.

I actually didn't even have to sight mine in, it came out of the box dead nutz @ 50yds. Bayonet didn't fit on either of mine. Mag wobble is no big deal. Look at the top round with the cover off, and you will see the mag wobble at the critical area, top round, is minimal and a non-issue. I'll take some mag wobble for the best value on any AKM pattern rifles!

To keep the wood the same color, try a poly/stain with a satin/matte finish that is just slightly lighter than the color of the stock. Make sure you really clean the stock, I recommend lots of flushing with almost boiling water to get all the cosmo and oil to the surface, then let it dry for a day. (The boiling water is great for getting the bulk of the cosmo off the rest of the gun, too! Use some sandpaper on a block for a few minutes to take the wood back to smooth, as the water will raise the grain but will also take out most of the minor dings and lighten the major ones.

One thing to note-I was unable to get the stock out of the receiver on my second one. I actually broke 2 screw drivers trying to lever it out. So I taped off the receiver and refinished it with the stock still attached. It was actually a lot easier to hang the rifle to let the stain dry between coats! I used an Ebony stain followed by a light matte poly coat and it turned out really well.

Enjoy it!
 
chris in va said:
...and keep it locked up good when not in use. They're finding a way onto the streets quite a bit these days.
Not any more than any other stolen firearm.

The media just doesn't tell you about the regular ol' 'non-evil' guns used in crimes because those regular ol' Fudd guns don't sell the news.

Please don't perpetuate the media position.
 
So after way more research than I consider enjoyable I think I may have found out what the "P" stands for.

Privelişte

Definition: sight, outlook, view, landscape, scene.
Note: "ş" makes a "sh" sound.

I found this in the Cyrillic alphabet and the Romanian language. If anyone can correct me I would welcome it but until that time I will assume this is correct.:D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top