Springer GI - how difficult to mod?

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Quoheleth

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Have a Springer GI that's a March '08 manufacture. I've put about 200 rounds through it. Really love the gun...but I think two mods would make a huge difference.

Would love to change the stock grip safety to a beavertail-style...or at least one that helps not dig into the web of my thumb. Also, if I'm in there tinkering, I might as well see about doing an ambi thumb safety - I'm a lefty, and that would be a big bonus.

I priced the work through Springfield...over $200. I haven't checked for a 'smith here in the Houston area, so I don't have a local quote. I see parts available in Brownells that, together, would be about $100. As I have more time than money, and I enjoy "tinkering," I am looking into doing the work myself.

Are these two jobs doable by a relative new 1911 owner/shooter with veeery limited gunsmith experience? I'm good at following directions...recently fixed my wash machine.

If so, any thoughts on what parts (specifically) to use? There's a plethora of parts available...almost too many choices. Oh...and if I do the beavertail, do I have to change hammers, too?

Thanks,
Q
 
First off, understand that there is no such thing as "drop-in" - that term refers only to a part likely in some cases to need less fitting than a gunsmith part, despite whatever advertising you run into.

Fitting an ambi safety is not that hard but it takes patience. You'll probably also have to relieve the right grip panel to allow free movement - again, slow is good, it's easier to take material off than to put it back on.

The BT is a little harder - SA uses a 220 radius and the rest of the world largely uses a 250 so you're going to need to do some filing on the pistol's tangs. Here's a sample link with pics.
http://www.oz.net/~jammer/Milspec/

More good DIY here ... http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmithing.html
Note that after you get the tangs to fit nicely, the real gunsmith touch is the even blending of the frame and the BTs curve. Search around on the 1911forum for some good pics.

And finally, a link for all you'd ever want to know about BTs and SA pistols.
http://www.harrisoncustom.com/TextDesc/Beavertail.htm
/Bryan
 
I too believe in working on your own pistol BUT,

Be advised that you have a lot of learning to do before you can tackle such a job. As long as you understand the dangers ..........and take steps to avoid mis-steps on the safety issues ........ you will be fine.

Replacing a hammer gets you into the SEAR & Hammer engagment surfaces and they must be PERFECT in order to keep the pistol safe.

Same thing with the [ ambi- Thumb ] Safety ....... you are fitting a part that must be PERFECT in order to remain safe.

You would fit the hammer and Sear first ........... then the ambi-safety, just incase you have to replace the Sear for some reason. The Thumb safety fits up against the Sear's foot and sometimes different Sears have slightly different dimensions.

The job is not terribly complicated .......but it does require a lot of knowledge of what needs to be done. If it were me , I would budget for a Gunsmith to check my work when I was done, especially if you plan on using this pistol for a home self defense weapon. I think most of the fun owning a 1911, is learning how the thing works and doing your own modifications ........ but don't be mis-lead by the term " drop-in" parts as the other member has warned ......just because the part "fits" inside the gun & the gun goes bang ; doesn't mean its safe !

Good Luck

JF.
 
Hmmm...the LGS I bought it from led me to believe such work was a piece of cake. Apparantly it's a bit more than that...

I might just hang in there and send it back to Springfield...that way I'm not jacking with the warranty.

Thanks, both of you...

Q
 
Follow up & new question

Maybe I should start this in a new thread, but I'll try it and see...

Called Springfield this morning. To do a ambi thumb safety and beavertail (which also necessitates a new hammer) and then refinish the Parkerized frame will be about $300 - parts & labor.

Honestly, this is more $$ than I thought (I'm not complaining; it just wasn't expected) - spending that would almost double what I have in the gun to start!

Is that price "high" or is it in-line with what I might expect elsewhere? A benefit of having Springfield do the work is that it maintains the warranty.

For that matter, anyone know of a good Houston-area gunsmith? Just to compare prices...


Q
 
That price seems reasonable .....you can spend that much on a pistol re-finish alone.

Be careful about these mods you are considering .........you don't want to throw more money into a gun that you will never recover. At least, I try not to. Doing you own work avoids those large labor bills, but it requires a lot of learning and a friendly Gunsmith that will offer you some guidence.

If this is going to be your special pistol .....one that you will never sell ....... and for some reason like the way it shoots and handles above all others ....then by all means spend what you need to make it your special gun.

I am not a fanatic when it comes to Beaver tail Grip safeties [ on a range gun ] and their fitment. If I can use a drop-in part that comes close to fitting perfectly ....... then I forget about the Pistol re-finishing step. I will choose a nice stainless beaver tail grip safety that I can file and polish ..........and try to do minimal damage to the pistol's frame tangs. I will even throw a Stainless safety on a blue gun.......... the contrast, to me, looks great !

Bottom line -- be prudent about how much money you throw into a "budget series" pistol ........... save the the big bucks for that special gun you will never sell !!


JF.
 
Right...that was my point.

Found a local guy who'll help me do the work. I buy the parts and he'll give me a break, $25/part.

The ambi would be helpful - I'm a lefty - and the beavertail would be also helpful - when I shoot factory 230FMJ, it bites my hand. My 185 SWC reloads don't, but I know full well those are mild, plinking loads.

We'll see...

Q
 
Beavertails are nice, but usually not necessary. You can dehorn your stock grip safety easily with a file and sandpaper. Just smooth the edges that touch your hand. You will be surprised how much difference it makes. Same with the hammer. You can Dremel/file/sand the tip of the spur, particularly the underside where it comes closest to the grip safety and the web of your hand, to minimize the chance of pinching. That leave you with fitting an ambi safety. Touch up with cold blue. Shoot till you have a clear idea of future improvements/mods you want to do. Save lots of money that way.
And there is nothing wrong with your gun as a base for a full custom. It is purely personal choice.
 
The frame tangs on Springfield's GI & Mil-Spec pistols are the same as Colt's Commander. A "drop-in" grip safety for a Commander will fit these pistols. Believe both Wilson's an King's make them. You may still have to dress the nose of the safety arm, but shouldn't have to grind on the tangs. Bob your existing hammer or order a factory replacement hammer for a Loaded model & should be fine. Run the safety checks when done.

Almost any safety will require fitting of the lug to the sear. A small file set (you'd use the flat one and the newer diamond models leave a fine surface). Assembling the pistol without the grip safety will give a great picture where metal needs to be removed. Ditto the checks above when done.

Funnel
 
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