9mm NT case?

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B767Capt

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Greetings I just started reloading with a new Dillon 550B. Have loaded up about 2000 rounds of 45 acp and 40sw. I decided to get the 9mm going today and got all the settings on the tool head right and started loading. Every once in a while I would get a bind when trying to seat the primer. I would then notice the new primer was bent and yellow powder everywhere. I would just pull that case out and start again. Well 10 rounds later same thing. What I began to noticed was that these cases had one thing in common. NT stamped on the bottom. I'm using Federal small pistol primers. I know 45 acp had this but what primers fit a 9mm NT case? I found nothing on this with a search.
Thanks, Bill
 
SM Pistol primers fit them.

But you have to remove the crimp from the primer pocket first.

NT ammo has crimped primers like GI ammo.

rc
 
Welcome to the High Road.

The primer pockets that are giving you trouble are probably crimped, just like military primers. The brisance, or speed, of the NT primers is much faster than lead styphnate primers, so they have to crimp them to keep them in the pockets.

The brass can be reloaded, but the crimps will have to be removed first. Just sort through your brass and put the NT cases aside and you can deal with them later.

Also, be sure to clean up the yellow residue from the crushed primers, since it can go off from friction.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Thanks guys I appreciate all that. Since my first post I went out and measured the holes on the NT brass and it was .168 and the normal brass was .171. The primer is .175. I didn't realize they did that with the NT's.
Thanks
 
Just thought of 2 more questions. I've done a lot of 45acp so far but not NT. I know that takes small primers. Is the 45acp nt primer also crimped like the 9mm? Also how do you get the hole round or "decrimped"?
 
Some of the .45 acp NT brass uses small pistol primers and some doesn't. It depends on the company, and when it was manufactured. The transition to Non-Toxic primers has been a learning curve for the companies. They first started out using large pistol primers, but couldn't keep them in the pockets. They next tried crimping them, but that wasn't entirely satisfactory, either. The next change was enlarging the flashhole to a larger diameter. This helped quite a bit.

In the process of all this, they found that it wasn't necessary to use large pistol primers at all, so some of the companies have switched to small pistol primers for the NT primers. Whether this is the final iteration or not is yet to be seen.

The Coast Guard is currently shooting Winchester NT primed .40 S&W ammunition in their Sig handguns, with what are supposed to be frangible bullets. In that brass, with that load, the primers are almost flowing out of the primer pockets. It looks like a dangerous overload when you look at only the primers, but measurement of the cases at the juncture of the case wall and web don't indicate excessive pressures. Non-Toxic primers just work differently that what we're used to dealing with.

Back to your original question on how to remove the crimp, there are several means to do that. I use the RCBS primer pocket swaging tool that mounts on a single stage press. Dillon also makes an excellent primer pocket swaging tool, which is bench mounted and dedicated to just that one purpose.

Some people use a deburring tool and remove the crimp by bevelling the mouth of the primer pocket. This works, too, but I prefer to not remove metal. That's just my preference, but I have used this method.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
Thanks Fred that's outstanding. Going to do 357 sig next. I have all the dies, just need to set that one up. I've been waiting to do that last as I would have more time on the machine when I tackle that one and be more familiar with it. I have the Dillon carbide dies. I guess I'll get that Dillon swage tool. I thought I bought everything but finding out quickly there is no end.
Bill
 
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Bill,

You're going to really like loading that 357 Sig round. There are some things to watch, so when you get ready, contact me and I'll walk you through them.

I also have the Dillon Carbide dies for 357 Sig, as well as 9x25 Dillon. I don't use a Dillon press, but I can help you with the set up of the dies. It can be a little tricky, but once you learn the nuances of the round, it's as easy as any other round to load.

Fred
 
Thanks Fred I'll take you up on that when I get ready. I have about 200 cases saved and I'm waiting on 2K to be delivered. I kind of gathered it was different from reading the forums.
Bill
 
Captain -
There is so much 9mm brass around it is hardly worth buying the expensive Dillon pocket swager just to do a few pistol cases. I would suggest that you set that NT brass aside for right now. If/when you decide to reload 223 or 308, the pocket swager will then almost be a necessity, and you can go back at that point and fix the 9mm NT.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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