Neck tension holds the bullet in place in autos. More crimp won't help. The FCD die differs in your standard crimp die in the fact that it has a carbide ring (larger than the sizer) and "post sizes" (squashes your nicely loaded round) to make sure it will fit chambers. I am not a fan of them myself.
My first reloads
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243winxb
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Neck tension is what holds the bullet from moving as Walkalong said. Your expander button opens the case up to the correct inside diameter. The expander should measure about .353" or smaller for a 9mm. You can make the expander smaller by a .001"ths if you want. The wall thickness of the brass can have an effect also. But first the FLRS die must return the brass to the correct smaller diameter, some what undersided for the expander to work correctly. The FCD will not help and is not needed. Your OAL is ok except for #7 that you pushed in. Whad make/brand/type of dies are u using? When taper crimping dont over do it.
From what I've experienced the amount of squishing the FCD does depends on the brass, and whether it's a lead or jacketed bullet. When I am reloading lead into mixed cases, which is most of the time, I can usually tell what brand of brass it is when I run it though the FCD, without even looking at the headstamp.
Winchester seems to have the thickest case wall, and with a lead bullet has a very noticeable bump when it goes through the FCD. And you can see the bullet outline in the case. And if the next round is Remington brass, which seems to be the thinnest, it doesn't even touch the sizing ring when using the same bullet, and the case wall doesn't show the same bullet outline.
Winchester seems to have the thickest case wall, and with a lead bullet has a very noticeable bump when it goes through the FCD. And you can see the bullet outline in the case. And if the next round is Remington brass, which seems to be the thinnest, it doesn't even touch the sizing ring when using the same bullet, and the case wall doesn't show the same bullet outline.
Wild, you can buy Berry's 124 gr./115 gr. fmc's and load them using speer data. That's what I do. It will save you A LOT of cash for plinking.
Always wise to grab a few more manuals. You're doing the right thing listening to people and being careful. The last few measurements were better. Much better actually. The only advice I would give you is to start LONG so you're never SHORT. I noticed your first measurements were 1.115 and then it went up... you want to start at like 1.18, 1.14, 1.135, 1.13, 1.125, 1.124, 1.123, 1.122, 1.121, 1.120... your measurements should look more like that (on the 1st round). Then I'm usually something like 1.119-1.122 in the spread (as I load). Though for adjustments once you get to the thousandths you're talking a HAIR's worth of adjustments. I mean just a small little turn, so much that you think you should turn it more, but you shouldn't! You can make sure your adjustments are correct by turning the bullet as well. So you seat and then measure, it's 1.121, then you turn the bullet a half turn, stroke the press and measure; it's 1.120. This happens (sometimes) because the bullet didn't seat PERFECTLY straight. You can usually tell by spinning the bullet in your calipers and noting any tension that occurs.
But yeah man, keep the GD's for SD full strength loads (for later) and get some el cheapo Berry's. It might take a few weeks but they have free shipping and good prices.
I shoot the 115 gr. but a lot of people shoot the 124 gr.
Keep at it man!
Always wise to grab a few more manuals. You're doing the right thing listening to people and being careful. The last few measurements were better. Much better actually. The only advice I would give you is to start LONG so you're never SHORT. I noticed your first measurements were 1.115 and then it went up... you want to start at like 1.18, 1.14, 1.135, 1.13, 1.125, 1.124, 1.123, 1.122, 1.121, 1.120... your measurements should look more like that (on the 1st round). Then I'm usually something like 1.119-1.122 in the spread (as I load). Though for adjustments once you get to the thousandths you're talking a HAIR's worth of adjustments. I mean just a small little turn, so much that you think you should turn it more, but you shouldn't! You can make sure your adjustments are correct by turning the bullet as well. So you seat and then measure, it's 1.121, then you turn the bullet a half turn, stroke the press and measure; it's 1.120. This happens (sometimes) because the bullet didn't seat PERFECTLY straight. You can usually tell by spinning the bullet in your calipers and noting any tension that occurs.
But yeah man, keep the GD's for SD full strength loads (for later) and get some el cheapo Berry's. It might take a few weeks but they have free shipping and good prices.
I shoot the 115 gr. but a lot of people shoot the 124 gr.
Keep at it man!
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