Revolver Jam/lockup problems, what the hell?

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Mokwepa

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I have a astra inox 38spl snubby. If i fire DA fast, it locks up. It seems like the cylinder starts another cycle and i have to manualy turn the cylinder so it locks up then continue shooting. This is my carry gun, so i need to sort it out. Any ideas. Could it be that the cylinder release button skrew is too tight, it is fairly loose though. What else might cause this.
 
I would check the pawl. It is the peice that engages the cyclinder and rotates it when the hammer is cocked. I have a smith and wesson model 29 that developed issues. It would rotate the cylinnder part way then lock up or become difficult to cycle. Replaced the pawl and after working it several times go it to work great. By working it I mean I had to assemble the gun check function. Take the gun apart take a few light file strokes. Reassemble try it disasemble file; and so on. I probably had the gun apart 6 times before I was satisfied with function.

I have been looking but I have not come up with a supplier for astra parts sorry.
 
My astra is basically new and only locks up on fast da firing, thats whats confusing, why only in da? Could recoil have something to do with it? The astra has a ring at the bottom of the main spring that allows you to adjust da trigger pull between 4 settings. Ive set the pull to the lightest, could it be that recoil is slightly cocking the hammer and starting a new cycle. Problem is i cannot set it higher cause i have one piece diy grips that were molded to my hands and i would have to break then off:( i wouldnt want to break them if im not sure that that is the problem. Could i load up some very light loads and see if the tame recoil stops the lockup from happening, to try and see if it is the main spring tension?

Thanks for the reply.
 
Go ahead and try some lighter loads. I do not think it would be caused by recoil but you never know until you try. If the gun does not lock up on SA but does on DA it makes me think pawl even more. Revolvers can develope timing issues. When the trigger engagement to the pawl is not in sync.

The other possibility is that you have set your trigger pull a little to light. There is a reason why revolvers have a heavy trigger pull besides lawyers. The act of pulling the bang switch has to cock the hammer, cycle the cylinder, line everything up and fire the gun. When you manually cock the hammer and shoot SA you are providing direct pressure to perform the same actions. I hope you don't have to waste your grips but I think it may have to happen.
 
Does the cylinder have endshake (moves forward and back)?

I had this problem on my S&W revolver. It would shoot fine for awhile and then suddenly the trigger would become very heavy and gritty.
 
I'd try it with light loads.
And I'd try it with no loads.

If it does it when empty, you have a timing issue.

I have seen old Colt SAA's that had worn firing pin bushings & end shake get to the point the primer backing out under pressure would re-cock them to the safety notch.

I suppose the same thing could happen with a very light hammer spring setting.

I would also suspect a light or weakened locking bolt spring is allowing it to bounce out of the cylinder notches due to recoil.

If it turns out you need new parts, I'm afraid you are SOL.

rc
 
Does the cylinder have endshake (moves forward and back)?
Click to expand...
None at all, its rock solid to the touch.

Are you letting the trigger reset fully?
Click to expand...

This might be a problem, im not used to fast fire(with rifles im fine, but only decided now to learn the short gun) with a revolver. Ive had this problem with my guiding rifle(cz550, .375) short stroked it at rapid fire. Going to shoot soon and ill make a concious effort to rectify obvious problems. Please keep the (problem) possiblities comming.

Thanks guys
 
Hi guys

I still need help. I fired about 100 rounds yesterday and after about 50 rounds, i started getting the odd lock up again(maybe 1 in 10).

Is it just dirt or is there a problem? How often should i be cleaning (after how many rounds) if im at the range with a couple hundred rounds.

There is no doubt that a few guys will respond with how they have fired 1000 rounds and their weapon is just as reliable as if it was spotless---be realistic please.

Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Dylan

Oh yes, this is the second range sesion since the last post. The last sesion only gave 1 lockup in 100 shots fired.
 
Does it always quit after firing a number of rounds with no problem? If so, check the barrel-cylinder gap. Most folks think it should be as tight as possible but if it is too small (.002" say), the cylinder will expand from heat after some number of rapid fire rounds and bind on the barrel.

Jim
 
What tends to happen is, ill do a series of single action and double sction drills. Only during the double action drills does it get the odd lockup.

It doesnt happen often, maybe 1 or 2 in 20-30shots (often enough though.

Basically ill be firing DA and on the 3/4 shot of a full cylinder, she locks up. If i wigle the cylinder, i hear a click and she comes free, then shes fine for the next 20 odd shots.

All that i can think of is that the cylinder release slide (inside) recoils forward and sticks, blocking the hammer at the back from cocking. I have pollished and lubed this part but it still hapens after a number of shots.

It might be the pin, but then there wouldnt be that click noise when i wigle the cylinder.

Im realy stumped on this.

After howmany shots should i be cleaning/lubing?
 
If the ammo that you're shooting seems to be leaving flakes of unburned powder, it may be that you're accumulating enough under the extractor star to cause binding. Wiggling the cylinder would crush the flakes, freeing the revolver. :D
 
YEY, problem solved. It seems like it was just a dirty firing pin. I would never of thought. I fired about 100 rounds and not a single hicup. Ill do some more shooting soon just to make sure that the problem is solved. Im sure it is though.

Thanks to everyone that helped me solve this problem, your help is greatly appreciated.
 
Glad to hear you found problem. I have never had a revolver lockup (jam) on any of my new revolvers. I recently bought a Pre-10 M&P 2 1/2" , a beautiful nickeled piece. At the range it locked up after about 100 rounds. I usually do an LTI on my guns but I had just ran a patch through this gun and lubed it. After the range session I disassembled the gun, cleaned it and then LTI'd the weapon after reassembly. I found an almost non-existant barrel to cylinder gap (<.02") which greatly surprised me. This small a gap lends to problems with accumulation of powder residue and heat expansion of cylinder and barrel. A certain amount of "slop" is always a factor in reliability in weapon (big reason AK-47 is so reliable.). I would not carry this piece for CCW.

(It is actually my "barbecue gun" so it doesn't really matter!)
 
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