i really need to have this explained to me

speer is good, I like the Lyman and Sierra ones too.

mypps: this never happens with the store stuff, so i can rule out the gun.

Click to expand...

No, it's not that simple, and it's not the load's fault necessarily.

Your pistol's recoil spring is chosen by the manufacturer to work best with one generic or universal load, most like what is generally available in boxed ammo.

If you chose to reload, and you chose a lighter load you will need to adjust the spring tension in your pistol' recoil spring so that the gun will cycle with the lighter cartridge energy.

So if you are varying your loads you need to vary your pistol correspondingly IF the new load cause the pistol to be unable to function normally.

If you were to chose to load much hotter than storebought ammo you would find that the pistol will work but will probably smack you somewhat harder. It needs a stronger spring to balance the function against the higher pressure or eventually something will break in the pistol.

It's why Wolff Spring Company exists and supplies springs of different rates for same guns.

Other considerations (I only skimmed, so might duplicate some earlier comments):

1. Year when the load data was published. Older manuals have listed different charges both because of changes to the powders manufactured, and because of lawyers/marketing.

2. Components can vary a lot. Not just which bullet they tested, but which brass, which primers, or even type of primers (magnum/regular).

Then you get into the fun of which LOTS of primers and powder they were using, what testing methodology, what their criteria were for max-loads (see lawyers above), etc.

Basically, if you just want plinking ammo, start at the BOTTOM, and work your way up until the loads are accurate and cause your weapon to cycle properly. You may even want to consider how cleanly the load burns, but that's more a question for someone who uses your powder in that caliber. As a general rule, you should always start with starting loads and work up, using a similar bullet type and OAL. It seems that you are doing this.

Each manual will list the weapon used, barrel length, case mfg., primer, and so on. Take a closer look at the weapons/brass/primer/ et cetera
used in the data workups. They are probably very different, and also different from your weapon/brass/primer/ et cetera.

Combinations of factors can cause great variances in velocity/pressure. Here are a few factors:

Primer: amount of striking force on primer, strength, presence of powdered metal (Aluminum & others), brisance - a measure of the rapidity with which an explosive develops its maximum pressure
Barrel: length; tightness of bore; height of the lands; distance of bullet to lands; temperature of barrel;
Bullet: bearing surface of bullet, alloy of bullet; shape of bullet; diameter;
Brass: new/used elasticity; manufacturer, volume;
Powder: new, aged, old, batch powder was from;
Weather: ambient air temp., barometric pressure, humidity
Elevation: above sea level
Other: I am sure I have not listed all.

Now, mix and match them. Would you care to guestimate the number of possible combinations,

Bottom line - - - use the books as references, not gospels. Examine the data, select a low starting load, and work up loads slowly, watching for pressure signs. Your weapons max will probably vary from all other listed references. That’s the fun/frustration of reloading.

Good Shooting!!!!!!

Any good loading manual should have a section on pressure signs. Primers being flattened is usually mentioned as a good sign, but it isn't IMHO. Some primers are soft and flatten at low pressures; some are hard and don't flatten until you are over max.

With Bolt Rifles
The better signs I use durng a load work up are:
Leveling off or lowering of velocities with an increase in powder charge.
The bolt becomes sticky or hard to open. At this point you may see cratering of the primer, expansion of the case in the web, and shiny marks left by the extractor.

With Revolvers
Cases are hard to extract from the cylinders.

There are no reliable signs for pressure in the brass from semiauto pistols and rifles until after the max is exceeded. Excessive pressure that are moderatey over max usually show as damage to the weapon. Really excessive pressure usually give you a KB.

Good Shooting!

I've had a very similar issue working up to a 'valid' load for my HK USP 40 and my brother's HK USP 40C. Our guns take a much hotter load to function than our friend's Glock. The starting loads I've found for both Win231 and Accur #2 with a 165gr plated FMJ do not function in the HK guns while they work fine in the Glock. It is important to find what works for yours, but get there carefully.

I like Lee's Modern Reloading, but I'm as new to this as you mypps.

According to Hodgdon the charge range for a 115gr GDHP bullet using 700-X in a 9mm case is between 3.9gr and 4.2gr. A charge of 4.0gr should be a good starting point and possibly the charge you will keep using. I like to check with the powder company when developing a new load or when using a powder for the first time in a caliber. The Hodgdon Load Data Site is very large and covers most calibers. They update their data often so it's current data. The Hodgdon site covers all Hodgdon, IMR and Winchester powders.