Is This Reload OK? Cannelure Issue (Pic)

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Birddog1911

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Got a really good deal on what was advertised as .308/30-06 147grn bullets. Has two cannelures. I set up my dummy/die set up round, and noticed that the brass case does not catch either of the cannelures. I'm assuming that everything will be fine, since the OAL is set right.

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No need to crimp for a bolt action rifle, just be sure you have sufficient neck tension.

Do that by measuring a sized case around the outside of the mouth...then measure the same case after the bullet is seated. It should be .002"-.003" bigger after the bullet is seated.
 
It is MY opinion that all rounds fired in semi auto rifles should be crimped...others do not agree with me on that.

A Lee factory crimp die will crimp those rounds...it will make its own crimp groove.
 
I can set the die to crimp further, I'm just wondering about it not crimping at the cannelure. For what it is worth, I tried, hard, to force the bullet further in, and met with considerable resisitance.
 
It does not have to be crimped into the cannelure...

If your die is using a taper or roll crimp it won't really help much...the Lee FCD crimps by squeezing the case mouth in a collet, it really will make its own crimp groove.
 
Appreciate the info. I may consider getting the Lee FCD; I'll test some of these to see how they do. Again, I really put pressure on the bullet, and didn't move it but .001". I think the bolt pushing the round in won't cause a problem.
 
That bullet is designed to be crimped into the lower cannelure for .30-06 and the upper cannelure for 7.62x51 (.308 Winchester). I've use it for both an M1 Garand and the M1A in the respective calibers. I use a heavy crimp from a standard seating die, but I seat and crimp in two different operations. If you're seating and crimping at the same time, then the crimp is being applied while you're still trying to seat the bullet.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I'm assuming that everything will be fine, since the OAL is set right.

You don't say how you know the OAL is set right. Did you set it by using the bullet to make sure its just off the lands or did you just pick the maximum SAAMI OAL for the cartridge?

The bullet profile on the left has different than the profile of the bullet on the right. It may or may not chamber properly. Makes sure it chambers in your rifle and doesn't engage the rifling early before you try shooting it.

For the rest of your loads set the OAL so the case mouth will then crimp in the proper cannelure as Fred indicated. That should give you mill spec length ammo.
 
I don't think he'll have any trouble chambering it in a M1. ;)

If you decide to crimp it I recommend setting the bullet deeper and crimping in the bottom cannelure.

How does the length of the new bullet compare to the length of the old one? With this change in components you are dropping your powder charge and working back up, right???
 
I don't like the factory crimp die from Lee as it deforms the bullet, the metal that the die displaces to form the crimp has to go some where and I believe that it can cause the inner lead core to be deformed. I haven't any solid proof just a theory.
 
Reloader Fred is correct on the crimping grooves. I also load this bullet in both my M1 Garand and M1A rifles, but just give my cases a kiss of crimp when seating so that I do not buckle cases behind the crimp. Both of my rifles have tight NM chambers.
 
I haven't checked it on the caliper, but if I seat to the first crimp, that will be several thousandths below the OAL listed at 3.340. And no, I don't think I would have any problem with that OAL in a Garand.

I think of it like this: There isn't a cannelure on the SMKs that I load for the Garand or M1A, and they do just fine. I just thought it a little odd that these bullets were like this.
 
You really should crimp the bullets in the cannelure, especially for the Garand. Don't worry about the COAL.
 
Was this a one time deal or do they have more available ?

Thanks.

I haven't been into reloading long enough to give an educated opinion but I don't see you having a problem.
 
That particular bullet is intended for serious work, not paper punching like the Sierra Match King bullet. As a "working bullet" they have to function in all kinds of conditions, including mud, sand, dirt, water, etc. That's why they have the cannelures, so the case mouth can be solidly crimped into the bullet. There would also be waterproofing compound applied to the case neck before seating the bullet. They're made for rough treatment and are intended to fire when the trigger is pulled. They're also intended to shoot "minute of enemy", and aren't intended to be target bullets, though I've gotten some surprisingly good groups from them with my M1A's when loaded properly.

If you'll seat to the bottom cannelure and crimp into it for your Garand, you'll be fine.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
A Lee factory crimp die will crimp those rounds...it will make its own crimp groove.
It sure will. :D
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Question: If you set the OAL too low (set the bullet too deep in order to use a cannelure), don't you risk building up additional and potentially excessive pressure?

A while back when I first started reloading 40 cal pistol, I set the bullet too deep and had some pretty high pressure rounds that were very uncomfortable to shoot.

I just finished reloading some 180gr Hornady PSPs for my '06 (REM 760 pump) that, in an effort to match published OAL, had to crimp below the cannalure using a Lee FCD.
 
This bullet is intended to be used with the cannelure, and you tailor your load to the bullet, which means you work it up as you should any load. Rifle rounds aren't as sensitive as pistol rounds, but you still work up the load for the bullet being used. The idea of the cannelure and crimping is to keep the bullet from being pushed back into the case while feeding through semi-automatic and full automatic firearms.

Measuring the OAL merely tells you whether the round will fit in your magazine and whether or not the ogive of the bullet will clear the leade of the chamber. What you're really concerned with is the volume of the case, between the web of the case and the base of the bullet. This varies with the shape of the bullet, since seating dies for rifle cartridges bear on a spot on the ogive, not the bullet nose, in most cases. There is enough variation in bullet lengths to give new reloaders fits when they start measuring the OAL and fret over a couple thousandths difference between rounds, when the variance is really in the bullet length, and not in the volume of the case.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
"I'm assuming that everything will be fine, since the OAL is set right."

You are quite safe. And the book OAL is what the load makers used to develop the listed data, it's no more a law to be blindly followed than their powder charges are. Might your difficulty seating deeper may be due to a compressed powder charge?

243's damaged bullet photo is clear evidence that some folks shouldn't use tools with moving parts. Those bullets were VASTLY over-crimped, a Lee Factory Crimp Die used correctly won't do that. Over-done conventional crimpers simply push the whole neck down inside the case so there's not a lot to choose from when crimping excessively with either type tool!
 
Hey Birddog1911, in photo, round on the left, check for pending case head separation . Looks like a shiny ring near the web area. But it might be nothing as its a little to wide. Cant see it well in the photo. Could be a die mark??
 
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Birddog1911,

The round as loaded by you is fine. No need to crimp for the M1 Garand. I load the cannelured 168gr Golden West bullets with the cannelure well above the case rim for my Garand. And, you absolutely don't want to crimp where this is not a cannelure (see 243winxb's excellent pic).

Don
 
Looks like a shiny ring near the web area. But it might be nothing as its a little to wide. Cant see it well in the photo. Could be a die mark??

Looks like a mark left by the sizer, not stretching, but a quick check on the inside for case stretching is fast, easy, and always a good idea.
 
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