I cleaned up the foregrip so it dosen't contact the Barrel.
That was NOT the thing to do!
IF, you removed the forward pressure point in the end of the forearm.....
The model 7 has a thin walled barrel and needs the forward pressure point in the end of the forearm, the pressure point does not cause point of impact shift solely on its own, but is contingent on action screw torque and barrel temperature, that is, the point of impact will shift when the barrel heats up during shot strings, or the action screws are not torqued to the best amount.
The model 7 is quite sensitive to action screw torque, and this was probably the culprit, not the forward pressure pad.
Based on your time constraints, you might torque the action screws in this order...
Front screw first, torque to 20 INCH pounds.
Rear screw second, torque to 20 INCH pounds, EXACTLY.( this is the MAXIMUM amount of torque for the rear action screw)
Third, torque the front action screw to 30 INCH pounds.
Shoot the rifle and see how it does, you can go a MAXIMUM of to 35 INCH pounds on the front action screw, if 30 lb/in. does not do well, but simply adding torque to the front screw, may or may not remedy the problem, after all, the pressure point has been removed, so you indicate.
The Model 7 is not a rifle that will shoot tight groups with a heated barrel, so let the barrel cool back to the temperature the barrel was for the first shot, after each shot.
As for the pressure point, you may have to jam 'something' in the barrel channel, under the bottom side of the barrel, and not touching the sides of the barrel to add upward pressure to the barrel, furniture bumpers, cardboard, noggahide(synthetic leather)...something.
Contrary to popular belief, removing the pressure point does not always facilitate enhanced accuracy, after all, why would so many rifles have stocks that utilize these pressure points, it is easier to make a stock without a pressure point, so....
Pay close attention to your action screw torques, no more than 20 INCH pounds on the rear screw!