How much lube?

I usually shoot some Breakfree CLP on the slide rails, seesaw the slide back and forth to let it run along the rail, then let the excess run onto a paper towel, and dab at the frame rail to remove more excess. Ater that, there are a few drops left on the red tube of the CLP can. I put one drop on each frame rail and spread it around with the red tube. Then I shoot some on the outside of the barrel and spread it all over the barrel, outside of the chamber hood and barrel lugs using a cleaning patch, which absorbs excess.

edit: usually spread a single drop inside the slide where the barrel/barrel hood will contact and a tiny bit at the tip of the trigger bar

I use BF CLP to clean my pistols. Then I lube with heavy oils (15w40), or oils mixed with grease (STP/ATF/Grease). If you want to pay extra for lubes made in moms basement, Slip 2000 EWL seems to be really good, but the Slip 2000 I borrowed was fairly thin.

Any part that has wear or slides on another part gets lube. Be sure to lube the outside of the barrel.

I lube heavy, but pay attention to keep excess lube from getting into the barrel or firing pin. If the lube attracts grit, then I clean accordingly. So far it has not been a problem.

I also detail strip the slides of my pistols often to keep the firing pins clean.

I follow the maker's instructions as precisely as possible. Where no instructions exist because of the age of the gun or for one reason or another, I apply the best common sense I can muster.

Generally the less lube the better I feel. I've seen more than one semi automatic firearm fail to function properly when oils and/or greases stiffened in very cold weather. A BAR in Northern Canada in 2000 comes to mind.

Not all lubes are created equal and such things as temperature, dirt, moisture and etc. can make choices difficult. Some guns are designed to run dryer than others, there are such things as "grease guns" and it always pays to know the difference.

That being said, 3 in 1 Oil has served me admirably for over five decades, Sheath (AKA Barricade) is great for actions in sub-freezing temperatures, and RIG Stainless Steel grease performs as advertised.

I've used 3 in 1 oil on many guns for many years. It has worked perfectly.
I use Break Free LP, not CLP, these days. It's formulated strictly for lubing and protecting.
I use cleaning solvents for cleaning.
You can use Dexron ATF or NON-detergent 30 weight motor oil. I don't care for the smell of Dexron.
I've thought about mixing ND 30W or Dexron with Lucas Oil Stabilizer and trying that, but haven't gotten around to it.
I may mix some Lucas with my Ed's Red and give it a try.
ND break in oil mixed with Lucas should be good.
Break Free LP is cheap enough to keep me from spending my time mixing up new concoctions.
For steel on aluminum, I like BF LP.
For steel on steel, I prefer Tetra Gun oil. It's the slickest gun oil I've ever seen on steel/steel parts.
A buddy of mine bought some years ago and talked me into trying it on an EAA Witness steel frame. I applied it and it appeared to disappear into the steel. I looked at him like he was the village idiot.
Then, I reassembled it and cycled it.
Then, I felt like an idiot. It was unbelievably slick.
Milky looking, and not the best smelling lube I've used, but it's a great lube.
I prefer a thin film of lube. I don't like things sopping wet with oil.
A drop or two on each frame and slide rail and a thin film wiped onto each contacting surface.

I specifically shoot polymer autoloaders

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They still have metal on metal wear surfaces.

Jaymo said:

A drop or two on each frame and slide rail and a thin film wiped onto each contacting surface.

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+1

I think this is all you need with most lubes. I use Breakfree CLP, a couple drops goes a long way.

graphite, like diamonds is 100% carbon and it is used as a dry lubricant...including a gun lubricant

Have used BreakFree CLP in all my guns for many years... IMHO it's probably one of the top lubes out there...
As Victor said "less is better than more" with regard to lubing and I agree 100%...
Regarding GREASE, I've used it occassionally on the rails but VERY SPARINGLY...
I think a good cleanup and lube after each range session is probably all that's needed!... See what works for you and your pistolas.

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On high load bearing areas such as frame rails and barrel locking lugs, just enough to maintain a visible film.

On my poly frame pistols I coat the entire frame steel tabs -top, bottom, and side usually using a Qtip covered in oil and then use that Qtip to coat the slide rail that where it rides on the frame metal tabs. I try to use just enough to do that and not have fripping off when I am done. If any has dripped off then I clean it up before reassembly. Then I rack the slide a couple times before putting the pistol in it's case.

Weapon Shield or M-Pro LPX have worked well for me.

sigarms228 said:

On my poly frame pistols I coat the entire frame steel tabs -top, bottom, and side usually using a Qtip covered in oil and then use that Qtip to coat the slide rail that where it rides on the frame metal tabs. I try to use just enough to do that and not have fripping off when I am done. If any has dripped off then I clean it up before reassembly. Then I rack the slide a couple times before putting the pistol in it's case.

Weapon Shield or M-Pro LPX have worked well for me.

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I suggest replacing the Q-tip with a Testors model paintbrush. Same amount of lube, less fuss and lint.

What about metal guns?Ive heard they run better "wet" versus the small amount on polymer guns.

All my sliding surfaces are wet. Polymer or steel. If the lube disappears in a week or so, then I use a thicker lube.

I'm not concerned about cold weather. Allthough I've never had problems. My CCW seems to stay around body temp, even on snowy days, for some stange reason? Hmmmm.............

If it rotates or pivots, oil it. If it slides, grease it.

Good quality oil, ditto grease and you are all set. A friend uses Mobil 1, oil and grease, and figures that even with faithful cleaning/oiling/lubing, the first container holds a lifetime supply.

Lube it once and won't until I next clean it next.
Usually just use Ballistol and wipe everything down. I might put a dot of Hoppe's lubricating oil on the slide, but it's not necessary IMO. Ballistol is nice stuff.

I know, but they have less, which means we're talking about more specific spots.

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Better rethink that one.

They have almost all the same wear points trigger mechanisms. slide to rails, etc).

What they do not have is large surface areas that require protection like a blued gun.

Glock or S&W when all else fails read the instructions applies!

There are numerous lubricants and surface treatments in the market place. Some are “Space Age” and others are old standards that have worked before Sputnik. (For the average lubrication application “Three in One” oil or if grease is required “Lubriplate”)

I probably don't shoot any more than you but I usually follow the same protocol as Hoofan_1. Dab some lube on the slide rails and rack the slide back and forth several times and then wipe off any excess. Basically if it feels dry it is too dry, if it feels wet it is good, if it is dripping down your hand it is too wet.

GreyCoupe said:

If it rotates or pivots, oil it. If it slides, grease it.

Good quality oil, ditto grease and you are all set. A friend uses Mobil 1, oil and grease, and figures that even with faithful cleaning/oiling/lubing, the first container holds a lifetime supply.

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This

too much is not better

I was at the range and got to talking with guy in lane next to me he being a nice fellow and proud of his new 1911 offer me to shoot it. I noticed it was kinda shinny but what the heck I 'll shoot it ,man I could feel the grease and oil hitting me in the face every time I squeezed the trigger I didn't say anything because the guy was nice enough to let me shoot . But that is too much and only attracts dirt and debris and puts extra wear and tear on equipment.

Guns vary in the amount and type of lube they require.

Glocks don't require a lot. I put a small amount of grease on the slide rails (something Glock doesn't say is necessary) and a drop of oil on the spots Glock recommends. Metal SIGs like to be run wet. I use a lot of grease on both the frame and slide rails and I also use a lesser amount of grease in other areas needing lube. Other guns are sort of in between these two extremes in lubrication, mostly grease on the slide and oil in the action. Some guns with tight tolerances may not function properly with grease on the rails and oil will be needed then.

You cannot beat mobil 1. It sticks to the metal a lot better than many gun lubes. Will protect from rust also when in storage.

And thicker lubes like Mobile1 won't mist and splatter when a 1911 drops it's hammer the way BF CLP deos. (Allthough a little dry fire practice takes care of flinging off excess lube anyways)