does this muzzle need recrowned ?

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kyron4

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I have a Rossi single shot .44 mag rifle with what is suppose to be a recessed 90* crown but is a pitiful excuse. It's rough on the edge to say the least, looking down you can't see the lands and grooves just that rough "jagged" edge. It shoots about 3" at 50yds and I know a recrown with an 11* can't make it do any worse. I live in north central Indiana anyone know a gunsmith who will do this type of work ? Here's some pics, what do you think ? Will recrowning improve accuracy ? Any advice or suggestions ? -Thanks
 

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I would brass bolt lap it with valve grinding compound. Just to break that sharp edge.
 
Re-crowning should improve accuracy and yours looks like a stellar candidate but it comes down to whether or not it's needed in a carbine and what your intended use is. If you have a smith near you with Manson re-crowning tools then I'd say go for it. If you have to send it off then invest in a new rifle.
 
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First off - great photos! Thanks for not asking for advice with either no photos or those taken with a pawn shop cell phone.

Now, the crown. Yup, I would absolutely at least lap the rascal to smooth those exit planes but before that I'd dead honestly ask myself how I'm going to use/possibly abuse that muzzle and maybe even recess that crown a touch more to at least clean up that recessed radius a couple thou.
 
I use the rifle for deer hunting so I am not expecting a macth 1 MOA rifle , Just get less fliers and more consistant groups. If it doesn't improve aleast I ruled out the crown and have a clean cut crown. What should I expect to pay for a recrown job ? I have lapped crowns before but this looks like it needs more than lapping and I don't want to make it worse.
 
Here's the rub: if no one in your area has the right tools and you need to send it out you're at the mercy of an unknown smith. If you buy the tools yourself they can be a bit pricey. The upside is that in ten minutes time you'll have a new crown on your rifle and the ability to re-crown other firearms as well.

If you find a local smith expect between $50 and $100. For a Manson kit about $400 will get you started. A great investment for anyone who owns a few knock-around truck guns or likes saving the occasional buck (or $200) buying used. Better than a lathe and easy enough for anyone they are the best tool for the job period. http://www.mansonreamers.com/

PS, the old brass bolt trick will generally work for a glaring burr on a beat up crown but generally turns a 10" group in to a 6" group. In other words not likely to improve things for you.
 
I gave a try at it , figured if I screwed up I was already going to have a new crown cut. I used a 45* tapered carbide burr cutter (looks like a pine tree) and with cutting oil by hand I slowly turned alittle at a time until it cleaned up. I still need to lap it with some 600 Clover. So what do you think ? Do you guys think I even made a difference ? Any input ? -Thanks
 

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The difficult part is getting the crown cut evenly around the circumference. Hope it works well enough for your intended purpose.
 
Nice for a hand job. It is unquestionably better than before and doubtless more than good enough for your intended purposes. Now have a care to not beat on it with cleaning rods.

I was thinking about this last night and figured in a pinch, I had used a hand burr tool with a 3 or 4 bladed inside radius cone attachment. I'm generally loathe to offer that advice as it gets a whompin' pooh-pooh from the 'smithin loonies but when carefully applied, presents very well.
 
Nice for a hand job. It is unquestionably better than before and doubtless more than good enough for your intended purposes.
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Might want to rephrase that...all of it unless you're a psychic, can predict accuracy by staring at an image or know the OP's intended purpose. Guess that makes me a "smithin looney", nice subtle touch and complete nonsense.
 
"The difficult part is getting the crown cut evenly around the circumference. Hope it works well enough for your intended purpose."


If it doesn't work out I'll go ahead with the original plan and have a smith turn it on a lathe. I figured I could at least try and see how it shoots and if not I not out anything.
 
Understood kyron, and I can't say you won't end up with touching groups at 100 yards any more than others can claim it's guaranteed to be better than it was. On lathe turning the problem is most guys will charge to pull the barrel (not a problem for your rifle) and that the external diameter may not (and likely won't be) perfectly concentric with the bore. That's why a reamer or crown cutter indexes using the bore which ensures a perfectly even cut.
 
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Might want to rephrase that...all of it unless you're a psychic, can predict accuracy by staring at an image or know the OP's intended purpose. Guess that makes me a "smithin looney", nice subtle touch and complete nonsense.
Nope, not gonna re-phrase it. It is in arguably better than the original partially rolled over edge. Nonsense? Whatever...
 
Looks better and shoots better aren't the same thing, therefore it is arguable. See bold print for rephrase and, for the record, the OP never stated his intended purpose. What is inarguable is that your posts are based solely on assumption with a preemptive element of "anyone tells you different than me is the one blowing smoke". Name one fact in anything you've written.

I've recommended the same techniques listed from brass bolt in a drill to hand-held case chamfer tool, usually on inexpensive surplus firearms but I have never guaranteed the results nor impugned others for suggesting the right tool for the job if need be.
 
I'm certainly no moderator, however I believe if you two wish to continue this testosterone match, it would be best carried out through PM's, not being smeared all over a legitamit thread where someone was seeking information and friendly advice.

kyron4: I look forward to the range report of your DIY work. Always nice to save some money if you can accomplish the desired results on your own.
 
Not meant to be a tug-of-war, merely attempting to answer the OP's question and make a few suggestions as to a course of action. Was it usable, you could try, don't waste money on, the best method for, etc. I don't care for verbal spats either but I am loath to let poor advice or inaccuracies stand.

The OP seems to have a good course of action laid out and will judge for himself whether further steps are necessary. I too look forward to a range report, hopefully a positive one.
 
Skylerbone , you keep refering to "intended purpose", I don't quite follow. I will be useing it deer hunter at ranges under 100yds, so 6" groups at 100yds will get it done , but I would prefer to 3"-4" groups at 100yds. This is a low end rifle and I have no delusions of turning it into a 1 MOA match rifle even if I have the crown lathe turned. I understand what your saying about "doing it right" but if my hand job doesn't work I lose nothing; if it does I saved some dough, and being on a budget is a big plus. -Thanks
 
I'd rather be lucky than skilled any day of the week. The recrowning was a success ! Nice even carbon "star" around muzzle. Below are the before and after targets. Shot at 50 yards of a sandbag rest. Now only if my groups were that good off the bags :rolleyes: Thanks for all the input and feedback.
 

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WOW!!! What a difference from a relatively simple proceedure. Congrats on pulling it off 'DIY' and saving money. Nicely done!
 
recrowning

nice job, really made a difference. i cut 4 in. off of my 45 ccu rifle and i used a stove bolt head to do mine. i have not shot it yet, bit should do better, looks better anyway. bophi
 
I'd rather be lucky than skilled any day of the week. The recrowning was a success ! Nice even carbon "star" around muzzle. Below are the before and after targets. Shot at 50 yards of a sandbag rest. Now only if my groups were that good off the bags :rolleyes: Thanks for all the input and feedback.
Too cool - savin' money and time like the old timers.
 
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