Is it worth a trigger job?

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coyotewillie

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I've got a S&W 442 which has a CT laser grip installed. I like the gun, but the trigger stinks! Has anyone had a trigger job done on theirs? Was it worth it? I know what the general purpose of this type pistol is, but still....it needs to be a somewhat lighter pull here! thanks. Greg
 
I had the action gone through on the 642 that I carried for 15+ years.

One the J-frame action, you're never going to get a really light trigger stroke...the geometry is just not there. What you want is a very smooth trigger stroke...so there is not only no grit of high points, but no roughness at all. On the J-frame is is really important that the tune the action and not just clean up the trigger...otherwise you cold just as well get the Apex Tactical J-frame kit.

An action tune would include aligning and removing any drag in the cylinder also...not just cleaning engagement surfaces and the rebound slide. While you have it in the shop, have them bevel the edges of the cylinder release also
 
My M442 has responded well to a lot of dry and live firing. The action is much smoother now, and it seems lighter. I think reducing friction from drag due to roughness lightens up the pull, since you don't need to overcome the friction anymore, just the spring tension.

rat
 
I have a 442 and a 642. Dry firing will help some, but if you search youtube for "smith and wesson trigger job" you'll find a video which will show you how to make a great improvement in your trigger. I'm no gunsmith, but in under an hour I reduced the pull of my 642 from 14 1/2 to 11 1/2 pounds and made it smooth as silk. I did not even have to buy new springs--just clipped 1 1/2 coils from the main and trigger return springs. All the tools required are a screwdriver and a small polishing stone. One word of advice--don't separate the hand from the trigger--it's a bear to get back in. Check it out.
 
I did not even have to buy new springs--just clipped 1 1/2 coils from the main and trigger return springs.

And of course, if you do any spring swapping or chopping, you need to run the gun with a bunch with cheap ammo and if that works fine, follow it up with your pricier SD ammo to verify ignition reliability before trusting it. Some guns with reduced power springs continue to function 100% with given ammo; others, not so much.

As 38riverrat suggests, try dry and live firing the gun first. After a couple thousand cycles on my 642 (perhaps get some snap caps to reduce wear on the FP), it smoothed up quite a bit. Not as smooth as most of my K Frames, but good enough that I don't feel an action job of any sort is justified.
 
I got some snap caps and have been dry firing every day. It helps to "learn" the trigger. I also pull with my first finger joint instead of the tip of my finger. I think this is helping me control and makes the pull easier on the trigger. I am getting steadier and steadier, gonna get some range time soon and see if this is doing it.
 
IMO, the J-frame is a patient mans gun. Like everything else J-frame related, time and practice will yield wonderful results. The only way to become proficient with it is to shoot and dry fire it every chance you get. In doing so you'll not only learn how to control the trigger but you'll also smooth the action out. I've had trigger jobs done by very capable hands on j-frames in the past but IMO, nothing beats the feel of a naturally worn j-frame trigger.
 
You may want to put some lube on the innards. I know the new j frames aren't very smooth, but they no longer put any oil on the inside either. I would not waste my money on an action job - just lube it and dry fire the stink out of it.
 
To get it smooth you need to lightly stone the surfaces in the frame where the rebound slide rides and the sides of the rebound slide itself. Not polished, just free of high spots and burrs. Lightly polishing the tip of the DA sear on the hammer and the radius on the trigger that the DA sear rides on will help also. If you don't know exactly how this is done there are plenty of books and videos that will show you. All you want to do is knock the high spots off. It doesn't take much. Springs can be lightened a little bit but if this is to be a CCW gun I would leave the stock springs in. Going to lighter springs usually causes more problems than it solves. Smoothing an action by dry firing works but it takes a very long time. Dry firing will develop the muscles in your gun hand to where the action "feels" lighter when actually it just easier because your hand has been strengthened. Practice as much as you can and you will be amazed at what is possible with a J frame.
 
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Just dry fire it a lot with snap caps and hit the range on a regular basis. You may just surprise yourself with the 442 and how much easier every other gun is to shoot afterwards for that matter.

-Jake
 
Far from an expert here but dry firing has helped my 642 get much smoother AND helped with trigger control. Others above have had the same experience. I think mine is smoother than a stock LCR. Still, I have contemplated sending it in to a top hand for an action job but I don't expect anything will make it approach butter. I guess that's why you have a fun gun and a carry gun.
I'll add something found in print. One reason you want to carry a double action revolver is for the perceived safety when god forbid you end up in court. I have read that if you have had a trigger or action job, an opposing attorney will likely spin that you're a gun zealot. Adding that thought to the mix has led me to keeping mine absolutely stock, with the exception of a little orange on white paint on the sight.
 
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