Sling options for AR with non-railed float tube?

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rbernie

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Other than drilling the float tube for a sling swivel, what are the options for having a two-point sling on an AR with a smooth/non-railed float tube over a low-pro gas block?
 
Is this the kind that doesn't have the vents in it either? Besides drilling a place for a swivel, I have seen some shooters just stick to a single-point sling.
 
There are clamps that attach a small section of rail to the barrel. Then you'd just have to attach a quick disconnect or other type of sling connector.

The other option would be some sort of clamp around the free float tube but i've never seen something like that so you'd probably have to fabricate it.

Why not just drill it?
 
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I have 2 AR's with free floating handguards. I attach the front part of the sling to the handguard using a velcro strap on one.

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Para cord is used to attach the 2 point Mamba Sling on my "match" 5.56 rifle.

I used the velcro strap from this 20" (with the ACOG) when I changed it to a 16" 6.8SPC.

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Both are overwapped with para cord to keep things from getting too hot!

Drilling is probably the best option though.
 
No holes and no anti-rotation features.

I've drilled before on this kind of float tube (sling stud backed by a nylock) but the absence of anti rotation lock means that sling use can unscrew the forearm unless I locktite the tube to the barrel nut (which I hate to do)...
 
Look for "lashing" on the net. The idea is that the first end tag is run under the wrap and is secured as you wrap. You also wrap a small piece of thin string or wire under the lashing and use that to pull the second end underneath when you're done.
 
Drilling a hole in an aluminum tube sure ain't rocket science. I use the DPMS aluminum tube and simply drill a hole for the stud. Pretty simple. Harris makes a stud with a threaded back, or you can just get the proper nut from your local hardware.
 
That's what I usually do, but if I index the stud on the bottom centerline then the tube can unscrew from the barrel nut as I cinch the carry strap tight (use as a hasty sling). I can mitigate that by indexing the stud more on the weak side of the forearm or by using blue locktite on the tube threads, but that creates its own set of issues.

I was just looking for alternatives. Thanks to all for their inputs.
 
I've drilled before on this kind of float tube (sling stud backed by a nylock) but the absence of anti rotation lock means that sling use can unscrew the forearm unless I locktite the tube to the barrel nut (which I hate to do)...

I'd bet you could probably drill and tap one or more holes to create your own set screws.
 
That's what I usually do, but if I index the stud on the bottom centerline then the tube can unscrew from the barrel nut as I cinch the carry strap tight (use as a hasty sling). I can mitigate that by indexing the stud more on the weak side of the forearm or by using blue locktite on the tube threads, but that creates its own set of issues.

I was just looking for alternatives. Thanks to all for their inputs.
Does the tube that you're using have a jam nut? If so, and you can work the tube loose with sling pressure, the jam nut isn't nearly tight enough. I've found with the 2 that I have that a bit of coaxing with a small hammer on the jam nut spanner ensures that the tube isn't going anywhere without the use of a spanner and hammer once again. Just a couple taps with the hammer for about another 1/8 to 1/4 turn after tightening with the spanner alone will suffice. It won't hurt accuracy and won't damage anything. I would put a bit of anti-seize grease on the threads.
 
IF the tube body is properly secured (loctite?) to the barrel nut part of the tube, then I can't see it coming loose. I haven't experienced mine loosening up.
 
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