RRA - handguard removal?

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Rittmeister

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I've got a Rock River Arms AR - the Elite Operator 2. 16" barrel, mid-length gas, blah blah.

I'm trying to remove the forend/handguard to replace it; it's heavy as heck and I've got a Rainier Arms forend ready to go on.

I've got the gas block off, I've got the action block for my vise, etc. I've been told that the RRA factory guards are pretty tight, or may be on with loc-tite, or that they were put on by King Kong :D

Anyway, the rifle has a half-quad rail as pictured below:

d4372bda-78c9-427a-b96a-92b57900bd63_zps8e412bf6.jpg

I've broken one strap wrench trying to get it off. I know I'm turning the right way - counterclockwise when looking from the muzzle (right?). There are no set screws but I'm wondering if the gray ring between the handguard and the receiver is some kind of locking ring. It's got four slots presumably to accept some kind of spanner, but it doesn't look like it has any room to turn in either direction.

I've read a number of how-tos and seen several videos but I'd be grateful for any advice on this; I'm pretty handy but haven't done any AR work before and I don't want to hurt anything.

Thanks!
 
The YHM spanner wrench may fit it, but those don't appear to be YHM handguards. If red Locktite was used you'll likely need to heat it up first. You'll need to loosen it toward the receiver which will allow you to unscrew the hand guard from the barrel nut. I dunno, maybe it is YHM. The lock nut looks identical to what they use on all their others.
 
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Does the gas tube pass through a hole similar to how the teeth of the delta ring interlock with the gas tube on the mil-pec ARs that would prevent it from unscrewing with the gas tube in place? If so, the gas tube would have to be removed first. And commercial-spec AR manufacturers do like to use loc-tite on things like delta rings and castle nuts so I would call RRA and ask them if loc-tite was used. They might tell you to heat it up or put it in the freezer (Bushmaster customer service once told me to put my lower in the freezer to get the loc-tited castle nut off).
 
They might tell you to heat it up or put it in the freezer (Bushmaster customer service once told me to put my lower in the freezer to get the loc-tited castle nut off).
Click to expand...

I've never heard of that! Is Loc-Tite useless in Alaska? Heat yes, red Loc-Tite "releases" about 450-500F. Much hotter than boiling water but not enough to melt plumbers solder.
 
Gas tube was removed with gas block, if I didn't say that - so no problem there. I have an email in to RRA but maybe I'll go ahead and try the heat gun.
 
RRA does not LocTite their handguards in place, they lube the threads then torque to spec then adjust, as needed to allow alignment with the gas tube. Use a 2" strap wrench, it shouldn't be too difficult, perhaps a bit of penetrating oil or Kroil on the threads.
 
OK, I guess I'll ask the obvious question - what kind of strap wrench? The one I broke had a rubber strap - not sure if it had any reinforcement. I'm always willing to buy new tools; as it's something I've never used before (I borrowed the now-broken one from a buddy) what specifically should I be looking for in a strap wrench for this job?

It would be nice if it was something I could source locally - i.e. Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's or even an automotive store.
 
The ones I prefer are aluminum with a cloth strap, they can keep the rubber ones. Some RRA guards do come with Allen Head set-screws, I believe on the varmint models. My original Elite Operator has none. Try the penetrating oil and let it soak an hour before using the strap.
 
This may seem like a silly question but,,,
You did remove the gas block and gas tube right?
Removed the bolt and charging handle and closed the cover door then
Put the upper in an action block in a stout vice?

The barrel nut has position indents for a spanner type wrench.

A Strap wrench may get the handguard off the barrel nut but you will probably still need the spanner or a barrel nut wrench to get the nut off the upper receiver.
 
Onmilo said:
This may seem like a silly question but,,,
You did remove the gas block and gas tube right?
Removed the bolt and charging handle and closed the cover door then
Put the upper in an action block in a stout vice?

The barrel nut has position indents for a spanner type wrench.

A Strap wrench may get the handguard off the barrel nut but you will probably still need the spanner or a barrel nut wrench to get the nut off the upper receiver.
Click to expand...

For the second time (third?), YES, the gas block and tube were removed!

And yes, it's in a vise in an action block, the muzzle brake is removed, etc etc etc.

I need to find a proper strap wrench it seems. I've got some PB Blaster to spritz in there.

And yes, I have an armorer's wrench that should get the barrel nut off once I get the bloody handguard off first.
 
All that done, you should be able to cook the tube with a propane torch until it starts emitting wisps of smoke at the joint.
Let it cool a bit and use a fabric strap wrench to turn that puppy off.
Good Luck.

As I said, seems like silly redundant questions but I have seen several uppers that were trashed by folks with good intentions and little understanding.
 
The ring between the forearm and the receiver is a lock ring. If you don't have a spanner wrench you can loosen the ring with a punch and hammer. If memory serves me correctly you will need to turn it clockwise to loosen. Once loose the forearm should turn freely.
 
You can use a hammer and punch to loosen the lock nut but you'll bugger it up. Buy a spanner wrench. Loosen the lock nut. The handguard may loosen by hand easily (no loctite), with moderate effort (blue loctite) or require heating by torch (red loctite). Before you even think about a strap wrench you have to loosen the lock nut with the spanner wrench. You may find the strap wrench is unnecessary.
 
Are you using the upper receiver clamps for the upper and a large vise?
You will get a lot more torque if you do and less chance of damaging anything.
 
Apparently heat was the answer - though I believe there is no loc-tite on here.

I got a strap wrench but it didn't work. Kept slipping. I then heated the locking ring with a plumbing torch for maybe two minutes, and tapped the ring with a hammer and punch as suggested above. It loosened after a bit of doing this and I was able to get the handguard off.
 
I was loosening a extreamly tight oil filter one time on a C7 Cat Engine.
I have no idea who put it on or with what, but my rubber strap wrench didn't seem to be up to it, kept slipping.
Lunch was 15 minutes away and I really was hungry.
I heated the rubber strap and it quit slipping. You dont have to get it very hot, maybe 150-200 degrees and that strap will get tacky and work for you.
Hard on a strap wrench, but they are cheap.
 
Screwdriver and a hammer works on stuck oil filters; punch a hole and enjoy the convenience of leverage the driver's handle offers. I change my own and I can twist 'em off by hand.

Good on you, Ritt, not sure why it was as tough as it was. I've met a few of the gorillas that work at RRA, could have been their Friday afternoon efforts! I jest, every employee of theirs I've met has been good people.
 
Well, I bunged up the locking ring good and proper (the punch marked up the notches as I whacked on it) so if I ever re-mount this forend I'll need a new one, or I'll need to smooth and refinish this one. I thought about selling the half-quad rail but it's heavy enough I doubt anyone will want it, so I'll probably archive it. I have no plans to put it back on so most likely no harm done.

In any case, I'm grateful for the advice!
 
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