686 SSR rough indexing

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Update. Installed 0.002 shim. End play went away. With 2 shims it's hard to close.

So, with one shim there is virtually no play. But gap looks too small. From what I read people like it 0.006-0.008. Mine is .005 tight on a left side.

This makes me thing. If gap is uneven - barrel might not be installed straight, or cylinder. Is it even possible??

This way looks correct way of doing it, but it won't fix fact that it's not parallel to cylinder face.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDEuNohwEns

This video shows everything correct, and I even have those files. Just not sure it's a right way of doing it :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HySO2lrO7UA
 
Tread lightly here.

First of all, you don't know for certain that the problem's with the face of the forcing cone. Could be the cylinder face or the yoke itself. Secondly, assuming it is the forcing cone face, you may have the tools to perform the second procedure, but it's meant to only open the cylinder gap, not to even up an uneven forcing cone face.

Before proceeding, I'd make darn sure I understood what the underlying problem is. Honestly, your best bet is to take it to a gunsmith for an evaluation. If you ultimately end up sending it to S&W, you may very well end up paying them for their repair once they see you started your own unsuccessful one.
 
Howdy

You absolutely should not have to take the side plate off for routine cleaning. In fact, if you don't know the correct way to remove the side plate I caution you from even attempting to remove it. I hope you did not pry it off.
 
Too late, I took plate off before. Didn't pry it, didn't damage bolts either.

So.. I did take fine diamond file to forcing cone, Just made it so 0.005 gauge goes through. Also, installed 0.002 shim and there is almost no cylinder end shake now.

Result - today I shot 100+ rounds, first 18 were jacketed, rest - lead. First time I enjoyed shooting gun, double action worked like it should.

And first time chronoing my loads I saw consistent numbers, within 30fps.

Happy for now.
 
Good deal man. Glad you got it figured out, but sorry a factory new gun gave you such trouble.

I'll be noting this one in my head for future possible problems.
 
At the end it's all making sense. Me shooting lead, gun being tight, etc. No blaim on factory.

OTOH - it's a lesson for me. I wanted nice revolver but wanted it to be factory. Here you go. Nice but not perfect.

I had CZ75 before. Gun was throwing brass in a face, stove-pipes every 100 rounds, etc. Sold it. Finally got convinced that it still might be OK, but ordered CZ from their custom shop. Night and day. Using for IDPA and can't be happier about everything.

Thinking back - if I had to do it again I might just get pretty nice 686, maybe even slightly used and take it to the good smith to work on it. Problem is - I have no idea who is "good" and can get it done in 2 month, not 2 years.

Also, I'm not sure what I need revolver for :) There is so many things about them. Shooting lead - different cone angle, reamed cylinder, etc. Hunting - longer barrel preferrable (6), maybe big bore. Home defence - 2-3 inches preferrable, but more rounds.

I know I like S&W but need to figure out what I want. I know I can have many, but trying to stay away from it :)
 
A 4" service-sized .357mag revolver is tough to beat as an all-arounder, so your 686SSR was a good choice, IMO. But it's a rare factory gun that can't be improved by a good 'smith. Since you shoot IDPA, ask around. Every community, it seems, has a guy who's really good at tuning a particular platform. They may not technically be a gunsmith and often don't advertise, but they do good work, nonetheless, and you'll only find them by asking around your local match community.

Speaking of IDPA, since you already shoot it and know the rules, why not give it a whirl with your 686SSR? That's what it was designed for, after all (though I prefer a standard 686 myself ;)). Just shoot plated bullets instead of lead.
 
I thought about doing it but now I need to get a rig, speed loaders, etc. and if I do it I'd like to make a commitment and use it for a year at least. I kind of like my bottom feeder for that. We have just a couple revolver guys, need to ask if they use somebody or DIY. I know one guy shoots Dan Wesson.

I want to use this 686 for hunting, woods gun.
 
The standard 686 is a great gun. I have a 3" 686+ Talo edition with an unfluted cylinder. I added Nill grip and carry it on the trail in a Diamond D hip holster. Fantastic setup.

If you want to truly get into a great competition revolver, check out the Performance Center Competitor. The barrel weights can be swapped out to customize the barrel to the weight you like. It's the most accurate revolver I own and has the nicest trigger by far. Since you now own the SSR and have her running properly, maybe the 629 competitor would be interesting to you.

Not that you're really looking for another one. I just like the 686 and all it's variants.
 
I'm conservative, like "original" forms. SSR is already "modern-tactical" to me. Not to the point where I don't like it, but..

627 looks very good. 5", 8 rounds, shaped just right. As all around I like it a lot. But I can't use it for competition, and can't use speedloaders. 627 with 2.5" looks perfect for home defence.

Revolvers with rails look like nonsense to me, but it's just my opinion :)
 
Though you couldn't use it in IDPA, a 5" 627 is an excellent choice for USPSA or ICORE. Just load a bucket of gamer short/long colt loads into moonclips and roll.

If you're conservative, like "original", and want a good SSR gun, I'd look into a good used M15, M19 (k-frame) or M586 (L-frame). The thing about later 686's is that it's relatively to install a fiber optic front sight, which is standard on my match revos. Whatever you consider, be sure CompIII or JetLoader speedloaders are available for it.
 
I have an SSR and was poking around on youtube for fun and saw them talking about it and other performance center guns etc.

The standard revolvers have .004-.010" gap specs. All the performance center guns are speced at .004".

You might be at .004 and ??? with an unsquare forcing cone. I hear S&W cust service is good and quick turn times. Might be worth a call.
 
As I mentioned above - I just took diamond file and made couple of passes. It was enough to open it up.

I have probably 500+ lead magnum loads down the barrel now and nothing but pleasure. Works great now. Not much leading as I had with 38spl either. I would say NO leading. So it's either bullets (THR member sent me) or 357mag load I use... Gun is clean, barrel is clean. I guess I found that "magic spot" for lead. Accurate, too.. 1250fps 158gr lead bullet.

Also, with full rubber grip and magnum load I'm pretty comfortable shooting it. I don't even mind shooting it this way ONLY, but don't think people will understand if I show up for the steel match with full house loads :) When my buddy was shooting it - I can see a fireball..
 
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