I just got my S&W 686 SSR and so far it's the most fun I've ever had shooting a handgun! I love it but the factory group seems a bit thin/narrow and I think leaves room for improvement. It came with some Uncle Mike's rubber grips but I haven't tried shooting with them yet. Has anyone shot with these? If so what do you all think of them? Also what so you all think would be the best overall replacement grips for the 686 SSR? I was looking at the Pachymar grips, possibly the decelerator or presentation grips.
Looking for best 686 SSR grips
- Thread starter Thetaii
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Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
The real hot ticket for competition revolver grips are those that Jerry Miculek designed: http://www.bang-inc.com/?main_page=index&cPath=1
However, I think they are very similar to the SSR grips you have. They're designed to be narrow as that makes things a little faster in the hands, at least in Jerry's shooting style.
Ahrend's and Eagle make great grips for S&Ws, you can search to find either of their sites.
Just avoid finger-grooves and you should be fine.
However, I think they are very similar to the SSR grips you have. They're designed to be narrow as that makes things a little faster in the hands, at least in Jerry's shooting style.
Ahrend's and Eagle make great grips for S&Ws, you can search to find either of their sites.
Just avoid finger-grooves and you should be fine.
Grips are a very personal thing, so it'd be tough to make definitive recommendations beyond trying different grips out 'til you find "yours".
That said, there are a couple of guidelines: Some grips cover the backstrap, and others not. Material that covers the backstrap also increases the distance to the trigger, so if you've got big hands, you might (or might not) like them better. IME, Pachmayr's run pretty big.
As to finger grooves, it's rare that they line up with your natural finger position. The bottom groove is the worst offender, so if you like everything else about the grip, take a razor or dremel and get rid of it. Grips aren't immutable. Likewise, if you like them otherwise, but need a bit more speedloader clearance around the grip.
I started off with smooth wood (Miculek), but eventually felt they were too smooth. Right now, I'm using Uncle Mike's with the lower finger groove cut off, since everything else about the grip feels good, and their rubber compound is just hard enough to still feel grippy. The rubber on Pachmayr's feel too hard (and Pachmayr's are generally too big for me as well), while the rubber on Hogue's feels too soft.
Most revo shooters wind up with a box of grips they've tried, and you may find people at your matches who've got some they'll loan out so you can try them. In the meantime, I'd give those Uncle Mike's a try and see if you like them any better.
BTW, Uncle Mike stopped making these grips, and as far as I can tell, S&W has the remaining inventory, so hang onto them. If you like them, I'd order another set (or 2) while you can still get them.
That said, there are a couple of guidelines: Some grips cover the backstrap, and others not. Material that covers the backstrap also increases the distance to the trigger, so if you've got big hands, you might (or might not) like them better. IME, Pachmayr's run pretty big.
As to finger grooves, it's rare that they line up with your natural finger position. The bottom groove is the worst offender, so if you like everything else about the grip, take a razor or dremel and get rid of it. Grips aren't immutable. Likewise, if you like them otherwise, but need a bit more speedloader clearance around the grip.
I started off with smooth wood (Miculek), but eventually felt they were too smooth. Right now, I'm using Uncle Mike's with the lower finger groove cut off, since everything else about the grip feels good, and their rubber compound is just hard enough to still feel grippy. The rubber on Pachmayr's feel too hard (and Pachmayr's are generally too big for me as well), while the rubber on Hogue's feels too soft.
Most revo shooters wind up with a box of grips they've tried, and you may find people at your matches who've got some they'll loan out so you can try them. In the meantime, I'd give those Uncle Mike's a try and see if you like them any better.
BTW, Uncle Mike stopped making these grips, and as far as I can tell, S&W has the remaining inventory, so hang onto them. If you like them, I'd order another set (or 2) while you can still get them.
Thanks for your tips/suggestions guys! I'm planning to definitely give those Uncle Mike's a try and I also want to shoot more with the factory grips, especially in an IDPA event/with speedloaders. To be honest I think my issue with the factory grips may have had to do more with my flawed method of gripping/holding the gun. I've mostly been a rifle/shotgun shooter, with some occasional shooting of my auto pistol, so revolver handling is relatively new for me.
Thetaii said:
We can't comment on your grip without seeing it, but my 1st general recommendation is to grip it high. I think too many grip their revo too low. Grip it like a firearm, not your grandma's tea set. You shouldn't see backstrap material peeking out the top of your strong hand when seen from the side, or even when looking down from the top. It's not the best pic, but the first pic below shows a high grip.
Once you've got a high grip, primarily use the middle and ring finger for your strong hand grip. The pinkie and thumb don't do much for my grip, and they're just additional points of contact that would need to be applied consistently, so mine pretty much stay off the gun. Matter of fact, I keep both thumbs off the gun entirely (pic 2). Both hands grip very firmly, but my weak hand grips a bit harder than my strong.
Speaking of thumbs, I use the thumbs-forward grip many semi-auto shooters use (last pic). Hot gas from magnum-powered ammo can damage the thumb if it's too far forward, but I don't even get a dirty thumb using standard pressure SSR ammo with this grip. I'm not necessarily recommending a thumbs-forward grip (lest I get flamed
), but it does help with recoil control.Finally, experiment with trigger finger position. I've been placing my trigger finger such that the 1st joint is right over the edge of the trigger face, but I'm now experimenting with less finger - just getting the pad on the trigger face. Use what works for you. The important thing is a smooth pull straight back, and being able to do that at speed.
High grip:
Thumb off the gun. Most grip is applied with the middle & ring finger:
Thumbs-forward (and off) grip with an isosceles stance:
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Thanks for the tips MrBorland. My initial grip was a thumbs down BUT I was definitely not holding the gun with a high enough grip. I think this really became apparent due to the significant decrease in accuracy when I shot double action. Shooting single action I had very nice/tight groupings no more than 2" at a bit over 20 yards. I plan to use some of the pics/info you supplied, as well as as the other pics/info I've found online to get a shooting grip that both performs and is comfortable. Times like this makes me wish ammo wasn't so ridiculously expensive. If that wasn't the case I'd be shooting at least 2-3x's per week.
Oh and attached is a picture of the new addition to my family. I really LOVE those Safariland speed loaders! I got 3 of them from Sarariland's online store and they sent me a really nice Safariland hat and sticker.
Oh and attached is a picture of the new addition to my family. I really LOVE those Safariland speed loaders! I got 3 of them from Sarariland's online store and they sent me a really nice Safariland hat and sticker.
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rbernie
Contributing Member
I have a Pach Compact on my 686 SSR and I'm well pleased with 'em.
Those look nice rbernie. I think I'm gonna have to do as suggested and try a bunch of grips to see which fits best. I also think I need to see how my factory grip performs once I really get the hang of my revolver shooting fundamentals (Grip, stance, etc.). I'm now thinking that until that happens changing my gun grips will only make so much of a difference in my actually shooting accuracy.
You can take the advice that MrBorland is providing pretty much as gospel. I certainly would if I didn't already have the grip philosophy. The real gems are the gripping fingers (folks don't understand it) and the floating thumbs (folks don't want to believe it).
Now that I'm finally coming to grips with my M&P9, I'm seriously thinking of giving SSR a try. The local competition is pretty slim. I keep threatening to bring out my 2.5" M-66...but then I'd have to find some ammo
Now that I'm finally coming to grips with my M&P9, I'm seriously thinking of giving SSR a try. The local competition is pretty slim. I keep threatening to bring out my 2.5" M-66...but then I'd have to find some ammo
Most awesome shooting grips for your S&W come from Trausch Grips. Check them out at
http://www.trausch.com/form/accueilA.htm
Pricey and worth it!
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Very interesting! I've never seen anyone use those before, anywhere, but they sure look distinctive.
The beavertail on a revolver grip is reminiscent of some very old designs.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Bear in mind that what works running fast with light loads might not work with anything producing significant recoil. It's only gospel if it applies. I wouldn't be using any of the above pictured styles shooting full power loads in a 629MG.
I've used a lot of different grips. Pachy's and Hogue's are extremely uncomfortable for me. They're too narrow and Hogue's palm swells are irritating. Ahrends' retro targets are good but I can find none better than Herrett's Ropers.
I've used a lot of different grips. Pachy's and Hogue's are extremely uncomfortable for me. They're too narrow and Hogue's palm swells are irritating. Ahrends' retro targets are good but I can find none better than Herrett's Ropers.
The last time I saw a beaver-tail on a revolver was back in Bullseye competition...along the lines of Olympic Free Pistol grips...before that, they were popular on high end BP pistols
My concern would be that they limit how high you can grip the gun
Sam1911
Moderator Emeritus
Yup. All depends on what you're doing with the gun. Might not let you grip the gun the way you want for fast work. Might make it hard to reach the trigger correctly for the grip you're trying to use. Might maybe also make my 300 gr. 1,250 fps loads altogether too much fun.
Might be just the thing for bullseye. Hard to say without getting to use them or knowing of anyone using them.
Might be just the thing for bullseye. Hard to say without getting to use them or knowing of anyone using them.
I guess it really is relative, but you don't see many folks using a 629, with Magnum loadings, for defensive purposes. I do have a L-frame .44 Spl that I use for home defense, and I do run it in the styles used above
While the 230gr .45ACP isn't as hard recoiling as the .44 Mag, or even a .357 Mag, I don't think it is usually considered a light load
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
You do understand that self defense is not the only use for a handgun, correct?
Everything is relative. Folks in competitive circles know a lot of competitors. I know A LOT of sixgun shooters but very few banging away at plates with a .38. Bottom line is that there is more than one way to skin a cat and we all have to find what works for us, as individuals. That said, I won't tell a steel shooter that the Weaver stance is the bees knees for his sport if the steel shooters don't tell me how to shoot a .44Mag.....or .475 or .500.
Well currently I'm planning to get proficient/accurate with my factory 686 SSR grips, after which I'll see if I even feel the need to change the grips. If that does happen then I'll give the factory supplied Uncle Mike's. Lastly if those don't seem to work then I'll probably give one of the Pachmayr grips a try.
You do realize that this thread is concerning the optimal grip to use in IDPA competition, right?.You do understand that self defense is not the only use for a handgun, correct?
Everything is relative. Folks in competitive circles know a lot of competitors. I know A LOT of sixgun shooters but very few banging away at plates with a .38. Bottom line is that there is more than one way to skin a cat and we all have to find what works for us, as individuals. That said, I won't tell a steel shooter that the Weaver stance is the bees knees for his sport if the steel shooters don't tell me how to shoot a .44Mag.....or .475 or .500.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
That wasn't in the OP and I didn't read all the posts.
That said, I prefer to grip and shoot all my DA's the same way and all my SA's the same way. That way I don't have to have any sort of deliberate thought when I pick one up to make the loud noise. Something to think about if your shooting interests are more varied than some.
That said, I prefer to grip and shoot all my DA's the same way and all my SA's the same way. That way I don't have to have any sort of deliberate thought when I pick one up to make the loud noise. Something to think about if your shooting interests are more varied than some.
That would certainly explain where you original post comes from.
BTW the IDPA reference is both in the tittle and the OP...686 SSR (IDPA's designation for Stock Service Revolver; for which this model was specifically designed)..."competition" mentioned in post #2 and most obvious in the whole of post #5
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Yes, because we all know that it is impossible to buy the SSR model and NOT use it for IDPA.
I missed a tiny reference to IDPA in post #4. It was obviously the competition-oriented advice received in the other posts I was responding to. You don't have to continue to rub it in or try to make this into something it is not.
I stand by what I said. That high grip with the thumbs forward might be fine with light .38's. I'm not saying it's a bad idea in the context of fast DA shooting but it'll get somebody hurt if they do that with anything that produces heavy recoil. The OP should be aware of this but is welcome to ignore anything I posted.
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