Easy way to clean the front cylinder on a 44mag?

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gonoles_1980

gonoles_1980

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I have a Ruger Super Redhawk 44mag, I spend quit a bit of time with a brass brush and cleaning solution cleaning the black rings from the front of the cylinder, and then the round area where the bullet enters the barrel. Neither of these areas am I able to completely clean. I get the front of the cylinder close, but not as clean as I'd like, and the area of entry into barrel, I never get as clean as I like.

Any suggestions?
 
A Lewis lead remover (Brownells) will do the job in the forcing cone. The black on the cylinder can be removed with a stainless steel brush (softer than the cylinder steel) but will be a long time causing any problem and sometimes attempts to remove it with abrasives cause damage to the cylinder; I suggest just leaving it alone.

Jim
 
I use a toothbrush and the solvent of the moment. Ever so often I follow that with a stainless steel brush. But mostly I just wipe it good and leave it be.
 
It's not a problem and completely normal.

Any means to completely remove the carbon rings is almost assured to damage the cylinder eventually
 
After a while you'll stop worrying about it. Removing it every time it's been on the range will remove metal from the factory facing on the cylinder and round over the throat corners. It's only because it is a new gun and you saw it in perfect condition - one time. Now it is a shooter. It's kind of like falling in love with a girl. She ain't going to look that good forever. But you love her anyhow.
 
Gun Brite, made by IOSSO, and a toothbrush will be your new friend.

1st cleaning will get 90% removed. After that....life will be in the 98 to 99% club.
 
Who needs bluing on the face of their cylinder? (just kidding) To me worrying about the appearance of the cylinder face is about like polishing your car's tailpipe every time you wash your car.
 
My normal cleaning methods do very little to remove the rings, so I just leave it. I think it adds a bit of character anyway.
 
drail said:
Who needs bluing on the face of their cylinder? (just kidding) To me worrying about the appearance of the cylinder face is about like polishing your car's tailpipe every time you wash your car.
Click to expand...

You only polish the tailpipe (or the face of your revolver cylinder) when you go to sell it to some poor sucker who thinks that's important. ;)
 
I read on one of these forums that Hoppes #9 and a Scotchbrite pad will remove the black from the cylinder. Only reason I would bother is if I was going to sell the gun...
 
I did the pre-sale front-of-the-cylinder complete clean and polish once long ago. The prospective buyer asked what was wrong with the gun since as he put it "you've never shot it".

He wasn't a serious buyer and I kept the gun, but people do have their own paradigm on certain things.
 
If it really bothers you, a copper chor-boy and the cleaner of your choice will do the work. Just make sure it is 100% copper. Most of the ones you buy at the store are copper washed steel. A magnet will tell the tale.

It used to bother me and I used to clean it shiny every time... Over the years I have learned to live with it.
 
I think Drail hit the nail on the head, she's so purty and new and I'd like to keep her that way. But as long as it takes to clean, I will think of it as mascara and just use some Hoppes #9 perfume on her.
 
I get the cylinder face, forcing cone, and the recoil shield looking like they've never had a round fired from them. I quick scrub by hand with 0000 steel wool and some Hopes solvent gets them looking like new. I've used other methods also with excellent results, but the steel wool is quicker and doesn't mar the finish on SS, which I assume your referring to Stainless Steel.

But I would avoid using steel wool on any brushed surfaces that you don't want shinny, as it will polish the brushed look right out of it of your not careful.

GS ,
 
gamestalker said:
I get the cylinder face, forcing cone, and the recoil shield looking like they've never had a round fired from them. I quick scrub by hand with 0000 steel wool and some Hopes solvent gets them looking like new. I've used other methods also with excellent results, but the steel wool is quicker and doesn't mar the finish on SS, which I assume your referring to Stainless Steel.



But I would avoid using steel wool on any brushed surfaces that you don't want shinny, as it will polish the brushed look right out of it of your not careful.



GS ,
Click to expand...


Remind me to never buy a revolver from you.


Titanium revolvers come with a warning to avoid such overly zealous cleaning
 
"...so purty and new and I'd like to keep her that way..."

Easy to do. For a car, put it in a garage and take the bus. For a gun, oil it up and put it in the gun safe - do not shoot it.

Jim
 
This is a relatively new product but it works at removing carbon.
I was amazed at how quickly it removed the carbon from the face of the cylinder and around the rear or the barrel of a stainless revolver.
Smear it on, let it sit for about 10 minutes and then used a tooth brush to get rid of the carbon staining.

SEAL 1™ CLP PLUS ® LIQUID
http://www.seal1.net/Seal-1-PRODUCT-PAGE.html

We kind of discovered by accident at the shop that this product isn't just marketing hype.

Hope this helps.
 
ogree said:
This is a relatively new product but it works at removing carbon.
I was amazed at how quickly it removed the carbon from the face of the cylinder and around the rear or the barrel of a stainless revolver.
Smear it on, let it sit for about 10 minutes and then used a tooth brush to get rid of the carbon staining.

SEAL 1™ CLP PLUS ® LIQUID
http://www.seal1.net/Seal-1-PRODUCT-PAGE.html

We kind of discovered by accident at the shop that this product isn't just marketing hype.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Similar to this, on Gun Talk, the Slip 2000 Carbon Killer is supposed to be excellent at helping revolvers for your exact problem. I believe they will also send out free samples so you can test it.

http://www.slip2000.com/FAQs.php?category=Carbon Killer
 
Is this stuff similar to froglube? I have that already, I used it on my pistols, haven't tried it on the revolvers, having a tough time giving up on Hoppes 9.
 
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