10mm Glock 20

[DetroitStudent]

Hey All,

I haven't posted in a long time, but I have a new friend, the 10mm. I shot a friend's the other day, and I now I have to have one.

A few questions before I put my good money down, however. He shoots hot loads (not reloads, just double tap and buffalo bore). He added a 22 lb recoil spring, but this is an area that I have no clue about.


1.) When should you add a recoil spring of greater weight? Glocks have been fine for me out of the box, and I am afraid of tweaking something for fear that it might not work if the time ever comes that I need to use it.

2.) if I shoot hot loads out of my gun, is a new spring necessary for FUNCTION or just a fun little add on?

3.) If a new spring is necessary, What else besides the spring is necessary?



Just as an aside I am a student, I shoot about 150 rounds/month as my funds don't permit more shooting. So this gun wouldn't take a ton of abuse.

Thanks for your help

-detroitstudent

 

[conrad carter]

glocks are designed for full power ammunition. shoot it stock and enjoy yourself. many glock problems can be attributed to aftermarket changes.

 

[fchavis]

I wouldn't change anything. The glock 20 I've fired on occasion hick-upped a bit on some of the factory 10mm loads which tend to be light. The 20 was designed for a full power 10mm, and likes 'em hot. Great round, great delivery system.

 

[treeprof]

There's not much agreement on this issue among G20 users. I have 2 G20's, both sprung with 22# Wolff springs on non captive rods. I shoot full power (Doubletap 200 XTP's and 200 gr WFN Beartooths, Corbon 180 gr BCSP and occasionally my stash of original Norma 170 gr) and near-full power (Win 175 gr Silvertips) w/out any functioning problems, ever. Blazer 200 gr fmj and Georgia Arms 180 fmj are my primary practice rounds and I've shot a few thousand w/out any problems whatsoever. When I swap out for my .40 conversion bbl, 155 gr, 165 gr and 180 gr .40 S&W loads also function flawlessly with the 22# springs in. The heavier springs keep the empties flung within the neighboring county, rather than 2 counties away as with the std spring. Also seems to reduce muzzle flip. YMMV.

 

[Rexster]

An aftermarket recoil spring assembly is a great way to induce malfunctions, so guy can perform malfunction clearance drills. My G29 worked fine with stock recoil spring assemblies. The previous owner had installed an aftermarket piece of crap, that caused many malfs, and that is probably why he traded it to the gun shop. His loss, my gain, once I installed the stock set-up. I only sold it because it was too big for my hands, and had night sights that were not my cup of tea; perhaps an SF variant of the G20 or G29 will come along, or I may someday get another regular model and have a grip reduction done to it, and install Heinie Straight-8 sights.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

On my g20, I found that when I went to hot loads that the heavier spring gave me a bit more smooth recoil then the lighter one. Reliability like all glocks was 100% in either case. Just try it and see if you like it.

 

[Thunder496]

I was on the Buffalo Bore site looking for some hot 10mm factory loads, and they recommend going to a heaver recoil spring for their loads.

 

[R&J]

Congrats On An Outstanding 10 mm Combat Handgun!

I went to a stainless steel guide rod and 22 lb. captured spring on my converted G21, to offset the .45's slightly lighter slide. Otherwise, I'd have left it stock...

LWD can hook you up with a good stainless or tungsten guid rod, and quality springs of varying weights, if you want to experiment.

http://www.lonewolfdist.com/

Ask for Dan...

But, like the guys have said, the G20's good to go right out of the box!

My favorite 10 mm cartridge is the Double Tap 1600 fps, 767 ft/lbs, 135 grain Nosler!

http://www.doubletapammo.com/php/catalog/index.php

Good luck!

--Ray

 

[sqlbullet]

my 2¢

Replace the stock springs if:

You have malfunctions. To rectify, look into a Wolff Recoil Calibration Pack, and try out different springs until you have springs that give flawless function and have a transferred recoil impulse you like.

You have battering of the frame. If you notice your frame is being battered, replace your springs. If they are old (> 3000-5000 rds.) replace with the same strength (unless you want to try others). If they are new, look to a heavier spring that will require more energy to compress.

You just want to. Personally, I always buy a recoil calibration pack from Wolf when I buy any 10mm pistol, and use the strongest spring in the pack that will reliably function in my pistol. This has worked well for me.

In the end, springs are cheap, and shooting guns is fun. Buy some springs and try them out. Just make sure anything you change is carefully and thoroughly tested before you trust your life to it.

 

[Action_Can_Do]

It should be noted that doubletap and buffalo bore don't really make HOT ammo for the 10mm. They load the cartridge the way it was meant to be loaded. Any 10mm should fire it fine. The more common loadings such as a 200grn bullet moving at 1000fps are LIGHT 10mm loadings.

 

[CountGlockula]

K.I.S.S = Keep It Stock Sally!!!

 

[SDGlock23]

The G20 is a nice pistol. Normally, I just use the stock recoil spring. However, I ordered a stainless steel guide rod and an ISMI 22lb recoil spring from Lone Wolf. It does help with some of the heavier loads.

Speaking of the heavier loads, DoubleTap is good ammo, but don't expect to get advertised velocity. I've chronographed some DT loads out of both the G20 and my 5" Kimber.

All velocities were about 100 fps slower than advertised, and some had an ES of over 150fps. I've reloaded .40's faster than most DT loads, but nonetheless, DT and BuffaloBore is about as good as you're gonna get unless you're a reloader.

 

[R&J]

Reply To Action_Can_Do & SDGlock23...

It should be noted that doubletap and buffalo bore don't really make HOT ammo for the 10mm. They load the cartridge the way it was meant to be loaded.

Absolutely... Most the stuff out there is watered down. These ammos offer true 10 mm potential, which is to say, real .357 magnum performance in an autoloader!

...but nonetheless, DT and BuffaloBore is about as good as you're gonna get unless you're a reloader.

Again, right on the nose!

I think the 10 mm is the optimal autoloader cartridge for reloaders, given the wide performance band of the caliber, and the cost of decent factory ammo.

For me, I like the hot loads! Otherwise, what's the point?

--Ray

 

[tiger rag]

Ray two questions , I am considering doing the same with my G21 . How reliable is your gun and what brand barrel did you use?

 

[R&J]

Reply To tiger rag...

Ray two questions , I am considering doing the same with my G21 . How reliable is your gun and what brand barrel did you use?

1) I went to the range earlier tonight, bringing 150-rounds each, of .45 ACP CCI Blazer and 10 mm Double Tap. In both modes, the gun was 100%, not one hiccup!

2) KKM.

My Conversion Kit Consists Of:

- KKM .45 - 10 mm Conversion Barrel
- Stainless Steel Guide Captive Rod W/22 Lb. Spring
- OEM 10 mm Magazines

The last five range trips were 100% reliable in 10 mm mode.

The conversion barrel combines the outside dimensions of an OEM .45 ACP barrel and chamber, with the inside dimensions of a 10 mm barrel and firing chamber. This has the slide's breach face mating properly with the firing chamber.

But the feed ramp in the conversion barrel is a bit steeper, and I've found that square-nosed bullets are prone to fail-to-feed problems. Bulbous-nosed bullets like CCI Blazer, Winchester Silver Tip and Double Tap's 135 Grain Nosler ammo all feed fine. You'll need to experiment a bit. The rig's 100% now!

In fact, my best target today was with the 10 mm rig--grouped all nines and tens with two magazines on a B27-Q Half-Size target at 30-feet.

There's a pic of the conversion components I use in this thread:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=335284

--Ray