13/16” Smoothbore

[rodwha]

I mentioned in the other thread I started today that I need a Traditions Crockett rifle, and that I like the idea of drop-in barrels. What’s better than a wooden carrying case with 3 barrels, a .32 cal, a .45 cal, and a smoothbore?

Being a small game, mostly squirrel, shotgun I figure a barrel length between 24-28” would be sufficient. And I like the idea of a fiber optic front sight.

So I’ve seen that a 13/16” should be able to handle a rifled .45 cal barrel. I’m not sure just how far a smoothie can go. I figure I have 3 options here. I can make it a .410 giving me modern components to try if I want, and even a screw-in choke (I’m a head hunter), I could make it a .45-something so that I can use the felt wads and cardboard box cards for my revolvers, or I could go up to 40 gauge/0.488” and likely patch my 0.457” round balls.

So which would you choose? Would you do anything differently?

 

[WestKentucky]

I mentioned in the other thread I started today that I need a Traditions Crockett rifle, and that I like the idea of drop-in barrels. What’s better than a wooden carrying case with 3 barrels, a .32 cal, a .45 cal, and a smoothbore?

Being a small game, mostly squirrel, shotgun I figure a barrel length between 24-28” would be sufficient. And I like the idea of a fiber optic front sight.

So I’ve seen that a 13/16” should be able to handle a rifled .45 cal barrel. I’m not sure just how far a smoothie can go. I figure I have 3 options here. I can make it a .410 giving me modern components to try if I want, and even a screw-in choke (I’m a head hunter), I could make it a .45-something so that I can use the felt wads and cardboard box cards for my revolvers, or I could go up to 40 gauge/0.488” and likely patch my 0.457” round balls.

So which would you choose? Would you do anything differently?

I would choose none of the options you listed. All .45-.50 something frontstuffers are going to be pretty weak for almost all intended purposes. I would jump up to something a bit bigger like .662 (16 ga) because that’s what seems like a decent balance point between weight, recoil, and power. You can also use modern components in a 16ga, they aren’t expensive, and at 7/8 or 1oz of shot your not using a whole bunch of the most expensive part of shotgunning either. You should be able to get to 16ga without increasing barrel size, so it’s an all around win in my book. If you don’t want 16, then whatever option is largest that you will consider.

 

[rodwha]

This would be for small game, mostly squirrel I suppose. A .410 is more than plenty for that. And I like the idea of being frugal and I would start with a square load, which for a .45 cal is close to 20 grns. That seems a bit too anemic to me, but I’ve read of people using even smaller calibers (9mm) with square loads. Don’t know til you try.

I currently have a 15/16” that I want a smoothbore for. Could go .520 so I can patch my .490” balls, 28 gauge for modern components and screw-in chokes, which is what I’m leaning towards, or maybe even up to 24 gauge as that seems the upper limits. Now this barrel would be 28-32” and also maybe have a fiber optic rear sight as well. And I really like the idea of a choke as I want this mostly for turkey. Regardless I can easily load this up to standard 20 gauge loads of 62 grns and 7/8 oz, though there used to be a big following of the 28 gauge just as it is/was seeming to be able to hold its own, both for turkey as well as competition.

What’s the heaviest choke a patched ball can be shot through? Or that cards can be loaded through? Wouldn’t want to swap back n forth.

But one day I’d like to have the hobby funding where dropping $1200 on a Pedersoli side by side 20 gauge isn’t a big deal. I think I’d have to try my hand at quail and dove.

 

[Gordon]

.520 if it will take it !

 

[StrawHat]

I have a 32 caliber flintlock, I used it for small game. The 32 is a frugal caliber, little lead, little powder and it hits well. If I were to do it over again, I would have a 40 caliber, with maybe a 36-38” barrel. Switch barrel rifles sound cool but in reality you will use one barrel and the other two will be heavy to tote.

Kevin

 

[rodwha]

I have a 32 caliber flintlock, I used it for small game. The 32 is a frugal caliber, little lead, little powder and it hits well. If I were to do it over again, I would have a 40 caliber, with maybe a 36-38” barrel. Switch barrel rifles sound cool but in reality you will use one barrel and the other two will be heavy to tote.

Kevin

If an affordable slim down (read 13/16”) .36 cal existed I’d probably go that route. I like the idea of the .32 as it is frugal. I don’t need any more than that, and if I did I can find/create a conical, but I can’t see myself really needing anything like that. About the only critter the ball can’t handle well might be a coyote that won’t come in close. Not sure if you would want to eat one though (my father had dog and cat while stationed in Asian and claimed it was good so I’m actually mildly open-minded enough to try it if it’s far from the suburbs.

I’ve actually sort of felt like a 32” barrel and a small game rifle seemed a bit extreme, especially with such small powder charges. I really like the 24” Deerstalker length.

When I think of .40 cal I think of two things, the experimental Colt 1851 the military tried along side the .36 cal, and an elongated heavy bullet pushed by 60-90 grns of powder for long range work on medium game (something I’m also thinking I need a barrel for, but on the Lyman).

My idea on this Crockett box set with 2 additional barrels is to choose my activity and according barrel, and leave the rest in the truck.

As an aside I’ve also contemplated, with the Lyman, an 18” .52/28ga/24ga barrel I could tote along as a potential tracking barrel loaded with buck n ball. That barrel I’d bring along in conjunction with whatever I chose as my primary.

 

[JPIMBO]

I see your are trying to get all in one because you are frugal. I think that is the idea @rodwha with the rifle and pistol of the same caliber but with brass and reloading. I really do see your point but are you going to carry this rifle, pistol, barrels everywhere? You could have it in your car and have whatever you need whenever you need it and easy to pack. Easy to buy for, exciting to jump in car and have everything ready. Good luck and may God bless your hunting.

 

[rodwha]

I see your are trying to get all in one because you are frugal. I think that is the idea @rodwha with the rifle and pistol of the same caliber but with brass and reloading. I really do see your point but are you going to carry this rifle, pistol, barrels everywhere? You could have it in your car and have whatever you need whenever you need it and easy to pack. Easy to buy for, exciting to jump in car and have everything ready. Good luck and may God bless your hunting.

In part indeed because I am frugal, but also just because I like multi purpose things when I can. .45 cal makes sense since I have molds with wide meplats all ready anyway though. I always wanted a Marlin Camp 45 because it not only shot .45 ACP, but even shared 1911 magazines. Or a .44 Mag revolver and lever action.

My thoughts on this multi barreled rifle set is much as it was with the T/C Contender. One receiver with a few barrels can give a person all the action they may want or find. It’s lighter, takes up less space, and costs less. I guess if I wanted to really have a lightweight case I could make a canvas carry case. But I’d still make a nice wooden box similar to a presentation box with compartments. With this case I can take off after small game but decide later on to shoot hogs or axis. I like options.

Thanks for the well wishes!