$150 towards .44 ammo. Factory loads or start reloading?

What should I do with the $150

  • Spend the credit on factory loads and just save the brass for now.

    Votes: 9 15.5%
  • Spend some cash and get started on handloading now. Don't waste money on factory loads.

    Votes: 44 75.9%
  • Spend your money on holsters or something else. Don't buy ammo OR reloading equipment from Cabelas.

    Votes: 5 8.6%

  • Total voters
    58
  • Poll closed .
Status
Not open for further replies.
stchman said:
Remember the Trackers are 5 shot revolvers. The Raging Bull series are 6 shot and don't cost a lot more.
I want the 5 shot on purpose. Lets me carry it concealed more easily. It's also lighter.

lawboy said:
I differ from some others in that I advise that you buy bullets, powder and primers with the 150. You can get excellent, used reloading tools on craigslist and ebay and much reduced prices over Cabelas
I very much appreciate your opinion and respect it. However, in this instance I will take Sam1911's advice and purchase the new kit. I would feel much more comfortable with that.

BCRider said:
For loading handgun stuff where you do it in bulk the first option with the auto primer add on is the way to go. Yeah, it's a little more bucks but long term will speed things up a lot.
An auto primer feeder for $80 sounds steep to me, but I also realize I'm less experienced that you likely are, so I will take your advice if this is the consensus.

Thanks so much for the info guys. I'm so excited to start reloading!!! :)
 
Mr. Peter said:

Thank you all for your insight and advice. I think I'll go with the Lee Classic Turret Kit.

Last question. Is the only difference here the Primer feeder? Is it worth the cost difference?:
Lee Classic Turret Press Kit for $189
Lee Deluxe Turret Press Reloading Kit $109

There is a significant difference between the two other than the "safety prime" system. The safety prime is an excellent priming system, but its not an $80 system. It goes for $20-$25 if you buy it separately. However, the Classic Turret Kit has the "Classic Turret Press" which is made of cast iron with steel linkage and the ability to load just about anything. The "Deluxe Turret Kit has an older design aluminum press. It is much lighter duty and not nearly as nice as the Classic Turret. Get the classic turret kit, its worth the extra $60 (if one doesn't count the $20 for the safety prime in the price difference).
 
Buy one box of factory ammo and enjoy shooting up half of it, and save the rest. Spend the rest of the money on a Lyman's 49th Reloading manual, some primers, powder, and 240 grain cast bullets. Start looking for a good deal on used reloading equipment.

Use the other half a box of factory ammo to benchmark your first few batches of reloads.
 
If all you got to spend is $150. Buy ammo I don't believe you'll get up an running for that with total reloading equipment and components.

If money is the issue get something besides a .44mag.
 
10 Advices for reloading

Welcome to your new obsession.

Now, here are my Ten Advices.

So much is a matter of personal taste. All advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".

I put together an arbitrary list that I think is illuminating. I call them my Ten Advices.

When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly. I did not use a loading bench at all. I just mounted the press on a 2 x 6 plank long enough to wedge into the drawer of an end table. Good leverage meant the table did not lift or rock. I still use the same plank, but not it is mounted in a Black & Decker folding workbench. A loading bench "bolted to the center of the earth" would be more stable, but I do not feel deprived without it.

Advice #1 I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Short on data, yes, but I found it full of knowledge and understanding of the process. Check out offereings in your local library. Dated, perhaps, but you can taste-test their writing style. Richard Lee's book "Modern Reloading" has a lot of food for thought, and does discuss the reasoning behind his opinions (unlike many manuals, and postings). Whether right or wrong, the issues merit thought, which that book initiates. It is not a simple book, though and you will find it provocative reading for many years.

Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well. As far as load data in older manuals, the powder manufacturers and bullet manufacturers may have better information and their web sites are probably more up to date. But pay attention to what the ammunition was test-fired from. (regular firearm vs a sealed-breech pressure test barrel, for example)

The reason you want more than one or two is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. You also get better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others.

Only after you know the steps can you look at the contents of a reloading kit and know what parts you will use and what parts the kits lack.

The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy.

There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started.


Load mid-range or slightly light at first so overpressures are not concerns. Just concentrate on getting the loading steps right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, seating depth, primer seating force, all that)

You will probably spill powder or drop a primer eventually, so consider what you have for floor covering when you pick your reloading room. (Note: my worktable is portable, a folding workbench with two presses mounted on a board that I simply clamp into place. One press has a large primer feed, the other a small primer feed.)



Advice #2 Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Better equipment costs more generally. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Lee makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker, though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes. Just think about what you buy.

Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A decent way to get started without too much prior experience. Eventually most reloaders wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops, but you will have gotten started, at least..

Advice #3 Learn on a single stage press or a turret press. Do not learn on a progressive press. Too many things happening at the same time are hard to keep track of.

Advice #4 Tungsten Carbide dies for your straight-walled cartridge cases. They do not require lubrication which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.

Advice #5 Find a mentor. There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technigue BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")

I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. There is nothing like a tutor, or better yet, a mentor. A longer mentoring period might have changed my reloading style, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. Then I educated myself after that.

After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.

Advice #6 Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers

Advice #7 Don't pinch your fingers in your press.

Advice #8 Read previous threads on reloading, here are a couple I recommend.
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=11&sid=1efda7af229b625361fbd5ae1f754eec
The second one is a thread started by a new recruit to reloading which the moderators thought highly enough of to make it "sticky" so it stays on the top of the list of threads.

Advice #9 When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy cheap (too cheap) it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying.

Advice #10 Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly.

good luck, and don't pinch your fingers in your press.

Lost Sheep

P.S. I usually buy factory ammo and fire it once to get the brass. If you can spend your $150 for something of good value and purchase decent reloading equipment for a better price at some other store, you might consider it. Simple economics.
 
Landric raises a good point about the two presses.

I was recently given two older loading presses. One is the Lee Deluxe and the other an older heavy cast iron Lyman model with 6 die positions in a rotating turret wheel. The Lee is fine but while it'll do what I want a more solid cast iron base would ensure that the ram will not wear at the hole in the base over time. I don't know what my Lee was like when new or how many rounds it's loaded but mine has a minor bit of slop in the ram fit.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top