To answer both of your questions. I use CCI #11 caps, they are easier to find. I also installed Slixshot nipples on both of my pistols. #11 caps fit them well. If you can’t find any caps, then I would recommend making your own. I have made them for over 1 1/2 years. Search on this site ‘how to make hot Percussion caps’. Next Ballistol is the only oil I use on my BP revolvers. Moose milk to clean, Ballistol to lube.
1858 Uberti in Stainless received as a gift, tips on care?
- Thread starter bornfreemotorhomer
- Start date
- Status
J-Bar
Member
Remember what a mentor told me 50 years ago: “If there is more than one way to do something, then there is not a ‘best’ way.” Don’t be afraid to experiment and find out what works best for you and your gun. Not much will go wrong if you stick with pure lead balls, real black powder, Ballistol and Mobil 1 grease, and lots of soapy water for cleaning.
.38 Special
Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2006
- Messages
- 7,357
In Sixguns, Elmer Keith noted that he had popped percussion caps when pushing them down "too hard" and that each time it had "instantly raised a healthy blister". He was called a liar too, though.
On the whole, I can think of better things to argue about.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Watching Mike's video made me remember the first time I took a Remington apart.
There were no videos back then (1975) and I did not have an assembly/disassembly book. I just figured it out as I went.
Mike is correct, it is a little bit tricky getting the hammer out because you have to lower the hammer down out of the frame to be able to unscrew the screw that attaches the hand to the hammer. Then the screw can be removed and the hand withdrawn out of the bottom of the frame. With the hand off the hammer, the hammer is lifted up out of the top of the frame. They are all slightly different. I just took my old EuroArms Remmie apart for this photo. I had to fight with the hammer spring a bit more than Mike did to get it back into its slot in the bottom of the frame.
However...........if you pay attention to what I said earlier, and remove all the shipping oils and coat everything, and I do mean everything, with Ballistol or some other Black Powder friendly oil, you do not have to take the revolver apart every time in order to clean it after shooting it.
The Ballistol down inside the guts will prevent the fouling that gets down inside, and yes some will get inside, from absorbing moisture from the air and will protect the guts of the revolver from rust.
Take it apart once a year to clean out all the yucky, oily, black gunk, and there will be plenty inside, but there will not be any rust.
The other thing I remembered watching Mike's video is why I don't shoot my Remingtons as Cap & Ball revolvers any more.
With a cartridge revolver you just run a couple of cleaning patches through the chambers. No removing the nipples, no messing about with q-tips cleaning the nooks and crannies of the chambers.
Just run a patch soaked with your favorite water based Black Powder cleaning solution through the chambers, then follow up with a little bit of Ballistol to protect the chambers from rust.
The only lubricant/preservative I use on any of the firearms I shoot with Black Powder is Ballistol.
After leaving a nice deposit inside, I wipe the outside of the firearm (shotgun, rifle, or revolver) lightly with a cloth soaked with a little Ballistol. Then I follow up with a dry cloth to wipe up the excess, but I am sure to leave a light coating in the bore, chambers, and the outside. Then I put it away. Some of my firearms sit for years without being fired again, I probably have not fired my 1858 Remingtons for close to ten years. Obviously I should take them out a little bit more often, but Ballistol preserves everything just fine. No need for anything else.
There were no videos back then (1975) and I did not have an assembly/disassembly book. I just figured it out as I went.
Mike is correct, it is a little bit tricky getting the hammer out because you have to lower the hammer down out of the frame to be able to unscrew the screw that attaches the hand to the hammer. Then the screw can be removed and the hand withdrawn out of the bottom of the frame. With the hand off the hammer, the hammer is lifted up out of the top of the frame. They are all slightly different. I just took my old EuroArms Remmie apart for this photo. I had to fight with the hammer spring a bit more than Mike did to get it back into its slot in the bottom of the frame.
However...........if you pay attention to what I said earlier, and remove all the shipping oils and coat everything, and I do mean everything, with Ballistol or some other Black Powder friendly oil, you do not have to take the revolver apart every time in order to clean it after shooting it.
The Ballistol down inside the guts will prevent the fouling that gets down inside, and yes some will get inside, from absorbing moisture from the air and will protect the guts of the revolver from rust.
Take it apart once a year to clean out all the yucky, oily, black gunk, and there will be plenty inside, but there will not be any rust.
The other thing I remembered watching Mike's video is why I don't shoot my Remingtons as Cap & Ball revolvers any more.
With a cartridge revolver you just run a couple of cleaning patches through the chambers. No removing the nipples, no messing about with q-tips cleaning the nooks and crannies of the chambers.
Just run a patch soaked with your favorite water based Black Powder cleaning solution through the chambers, then follow up with a little bit of Ballistol to protect the chambers from rust.
The only lubricant/preservative I use on any of the firearms I shoot with Black Powder is Ballistol.
After leaving a nice deposit inside, I wipe the outside of the firearm (shotgun, rifle, or revolver) lightly with a cloth soaked with a little Ballistol. Then I follow up with a dry cloth to wipe up the excess, but I am sure to leave a light coating in the bore, chambers, and the outside. Then I put it away. Some of my firearms sit for years without being fired again, I probably have not fired my 1858 Remingtons for close to ten years. Obviously I should take them out a little bit more often, but Ballistol preserves everything just fine. No need for anything else.
hawg
Member
I haven't fired my Remingtons in at least that long but one of them is aged and a little rust wouldn't hurt anything.
I mostly use 3 n1 oil for long term storage. Ballistol is good stuff I just can't get past the smell.
Malachi Leviticus Blue
Member
I use antiseize on all my nipples, never had any problems with it or a stuck nipple when using it.
- Status
Similar threads
