Watching a YouTube comparison of an original and a Uberti 1860 Army, I noticed that the hammer screws on both models were flush with the frame. On my Uberti, the hammer screws protrude about 1/4" from the frame. In fact, my trigger finger rubs against one that is rather sharp. I have considered beveling the top of the screw to handle that situation. Why do these screws protrude so far? Did it have something to do with fitting some type of stock to the gun? Can they be replaced with flush-fitting screws?
1860 Army hammer screw
- Thread starter hmoos
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44 Dave
Member
The 4th screw goes nowhere, just to hook a shoulder stock on. Not all 1860s have the 4th screw.
44 Dave
Member
You guys left handed? The hammer, trigger, and bolt screws go in from the left.
Are you saying that the protruding screws don't hold anything inside the frame and can be removed and replaced with a flush screw? I thought it was the hammer screw, but looking at the parts diagram, I don't see it there. Is that why you called it the fourth screw? Thanks for the information.
whughett
Member
They are blind screws. Don't think you could replace with flush screw as there is no counter bore. Bevel the heads to match the hammer screw perhaps.
Crawdad1
Member
Exactly. They do not hold anything inside the frame.
As noted above, you have the MILITARY model repro.
Those two large screws are ONLY there to work with the frame cutouts & the notch in the bottom of your gripframe as attachment points for a shoulder stock.
Cheapest two options are to round off the edges (dome the heads) that bug you & cold blue them, or sell & buy a standard model.
Third option is to just live with them.
You could find a gunsmith to fit flush screws, but that'd cost money.
Denis
Those two large screws are ONLY there to work with the frame cutouts & the notch in the bottom of your gripframe as attachment points for a shoulder stock.
Cheapest two options are to round off the edges (dome the heads) that bug you & cold blue them, or sell & buy a standard model.
Third option is to just live with them.
You could find a gunsmith to fit flush screws, but that'd cost money.
Denis
BCRider
Member
The three with the counter bored heads are the action screws. The other TWO (one on each side in holes that line up) are the shoulder stock screws. And yes, I find them digging in on my hand as well.
You COULD simply remove them. They do nothing if you're not using a shoulder stock.
If the holes bother you then you could fill them in with plug screws set in place using some Loctite to glue them so they don't work their way in or out.
The snappy but more complex or expensive way is to slightly countersink the holes and install custom made counter sunk screws that have the very short head on them to fit flush. More complex if you're doing the work yourself since you need to modify the frame slightly and custom turn the screw heads and cut the slots. Or more expensive if you were to get a smith to do the work.
Personally I'd try the plug screws with thread locker. If the thread locker doesn't hold due to the oils, vibration and washing in hot water from time to time then I'd probably just remove them and live with the two holes.
You COULD simply remove them. They do nothing if you're not using a shoulder stock.
If the holes bother you then you could fill them in with plug screws set in place using some Loctite to glue them so they don't work their way in or out.
The snappy but more complex or expensive way is to slightly countersink the holes and install custom made counter sunk screws that have the very short head on them to fit flush. More complex if you're doing the work yourself since you need to modify the frame slightly and custom turn the screw heads and cut the slots. Or more expensive if you were to get a smith to do the work.
Personally I'd try the plug screws with thread locker. If the thread locker doesn't hold due to the oils, vibration and washing in hot water from time to time then I'd probably just remove them and live with the two holes.
J-Bar
Member
The screw head on the thumb side of the grip is miles from my thumb, and with my trigger finger tip on the trigger, my finger is a long way from the other screw.
How are you guys holding your revolver to make these stock screws so bothersome???
How are you guys holding your revolver to make these stock screws so bothersome???
45 Dragoon
Member
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I have removed the head down to almost flush, broke the edge smooth, polished to a high gloss, then fire blued . I then cut a screwdriver slot on the inside and installed . This plugs the hole with a decorative and flush "button". Best thing is, there's nothing to buy and you just made a conversation piece!!
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Thumb side is no problem.
In my case, I'm not a finger-tip shooter.
I shoot all my single-actions with the little finger curled under the gripframe to keep the gun from wandering during successive shots.
On my '60, the trigger falls into the end joint of my trigger finger, not on the tip or pad, and that leaves that finger resting fully against the frame on the right side, in contact with the underside of the stock screw.
It is mildly annoying, but I knew the difference & deliberately acquired the military version.
I just live with it.
Denis
In my case, I'm not a finger-tip shooter.
I shoot all my single-actions with the little finger curled under the gripframe to keep the gun from wandering during successive shots.
On my '60, the trigger falls into the end joint of my trigger finger, not on the tip or pad, and that leaves that finger resting fully against the frame on the right side, in contact with the underside of the stock screw.
It is mildly annoying, but I knew the difference & deliberately acquired the military version.
I just live with it.
Denis
The screw on the right side bothered me also. I thought about grinding it down and making it look good, but ended up just taking the one on the right side out and didnt do anything else. The empty hole doesnt bother me enough to do anything about it. Not even sure where the screw is now, and am not concerned about it.
Smokin'Joe
Member
I used a black plastic Tewaker 1/4" in diameter to make plugs that fit flush in the frame.
dickydalton
Member
Good idea, Smokin'Joe.
AlexanderA
Member
The stock studs (screws) are a feature, not a bug. IMO they make the gun more desirable.
BCRider
Member
Jbar, I also hold with my pinky down under. But the edge of the screw heads, which IS rather sharp on my gun with the screws, does tend to rub at the root area of my trigger finger when the gun fires. And I would expect it to do so for most folks.
Perhaps your gun has screws that have even slightly more rounded edges? The screws on mine aren't sharp enough to actually shave with, but they aren't far from that. So they tend to scuff the palm side skin and work it a little raw after a day of shooting.
Ephraim Kibbey
Member
I see many period pictures of enlisted cavalrymen wearing gauntlets or carrying them in there belts.
I imagine the screw heads would not bother anyone if they went to the range with a pair of gloves.
It would also solve the problem of those narrow, sharp edged triggers on some repros.
I imagine the screw heads would not bother anyone if they went to the range with a pair of gloves.
It would also solve the problem of those narrow, sharp edged triggers on some repros.
Crawdad1
Member
I just checked and my trigger finger rests right over top of the stock screw. I never noticed that before. But gripping the revolver I still can't feel that screw as its round and the edges are smooth.
On originals the stock studs have sometimes been replaced (most likely at the factory) with short-headed screws that just plug the hole and have no function.
It is common to find on later guns the frame (and often the grip strap) was milled for the stock but it was never drilled and tapped, as the stock was not a big seller and omitting these operations saved a small amount of $$.
Repros seem to be normally fitted with the studs, though few people use them.
It is common to find on later guns the frame (and often the grip strap) was milled for the stock but it was never drilled and tapped, as the stock was not a big seller and omitting these operations saved a small amount of $$.
Repros seem to be normally fitted with the studs, though few people use them.
Noz
Member
Take the screws out, chuck the threaded ends in a cordless drill, turn the heads agains a good file until you achieve a smooth oval configuration. Touch with cold blue and you are done.
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