1911 .45, what is the best?

[Sean Smith]

There are the "sub-class" guns which I'd stay away from if your interested in reliability. Lllama, Rock River (or island, whatever)

Uh, there is a HUGE difference between Rock Island Armory and Rock River Arms. RIA sells cheap third world slag. Rock River Arms sells very high quality $1,000+ custom guns made in the USA. Try having some facts next time.

Then there are the big three (think cars) colt, SA and Kimber. However, the Colts and Kimbers are NOT real 1911's. They've both got stupid extra crap in them.

Techinically, none of them are 1911s, because none of them are military contract guns made before the 1911A1 was adopted. The Colt is the closest to correct of the three, even with the firing pin block safety (the technical term for "stupid extra crap")

I, personally, would have really liked to have been able to buy a Colt, however, I refuse to pay the $1,000 for the series 70 rei-issue that should cost less to make. They're nice (shot one yesterday) but the series 80 stuff makes for a fishy trigger pull and pisses me off.

You sound confused. The going rate for those guns is more like $850. And they don't have Series 80 stuff, that's why they are called Series 70. And you realize that it is really easy to remove the Series 80 parts... right?

 

[Doc]

Rich:

yep, your comments are correct.

PM me and I will continue my diatribe offline

Doc

PS: I could really use the help; ask Skunkabilly

 

[Tamara]

Hrmmm...

I've had several 1911's that were spotty in the reliability department (mostly troubles feeding JHP's or crappy factory magazines):

Colt Series 70 Commander, old Springfield "pre-milspec milspec", 'nother "pre-loaded" Springfield, an Auto-Ordinance, and an early Colt 1991A1.


Then there are the ones that have been champs from the day I got 'em:

A racegun built from parts (Essex frame, Colt slide), ParaOrd P-12.45, Springfield V-10, Kimber Custom Classic Stainless LE, Springfield Professional, an old "Clackamas, OR" Kimber Custom Classic, a Colt Series 80 Enhanced in .38 Super, Springfield Stainless Loaded, and a Les Baer Concept III.

 

[Mr. Black]

There are the "sub-class" guns which I'd stay away from if your interested in reliability. Lllama, Rock River (or island, whatever)
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Uh, there is a HUGE difference between Rock Island Armory and Rock River Arms. RIA sells cheap third world slag. Rock River Arms sells very high quality $1,000+ custom guns made in the USA. Try having some facts next time.

Well duh. I couldn't remember if it was Rock Island or River that was the cheap phillipino guns. I didn't want to get it wrong. Sorry if you got confused when I was talking about $300 crud.

Techinically, none of them are 1911s, because none of them are military contract guns made before the 1911A1 was adopted. The Colt is the closest to correct of the three, even with the firing pin block safety (the technical term for "stupid extra crap")

Okay, let's be nitpicky. But I don't see how the colt is the closest, when it has extra parts from the original. Sure, a mil-spec has a different ejection port, and a flared frame; but it hasn't got functions that existed on neither the original, nor the A1 with the exception of some Swartz (like Kimber) safeties in the 30's.

You sound confused. The going rate for those guns is more like $850. And they don't have Series 80 stuff, that's why they are called Series 70. And you realize that it is really easy to remove the Series 80 parts... right?

I refuse to pay $850 ($1000 list, I believe) for a gun that costs Colt less to make than the guns that they sell for little over $500. It was a series 80 I shot the day before. While they are, overall, a nice gun; the trigger pull is still fishy. Feels more like a BHP than a 1911.

And why would I want to remove parts that are there for my safety? Why would I buy a weapon that I must remove parts off of? I sure know that removing safeties on a gun doesn't open one up to any more liability.

Why, on the internet do people; instead of nicely asking for clearification, automatically assume you're an idiot and feel the need to tell you "how it is?"

 

[Pumpkinheaver]

I've got a Kimber that I bought new in '98 that has NEVER jammed using factory defensive ammo. The only time it has balked was when I first got it and tried some light target loads in it, I bought a lighter mainspring from wolfe and have never had a problem since. I highly recomend Kimber.

 

[Sean Smith]

And why would I want to remove parts that are there for my safety?

Why would you care about removing parts that you don't want the company to put there in the first place?