pneumagger
Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2009
- Messages
- 10
Sorry about the long post. I read the 1911 clinic and have a few questions about some specific issues I'm having.
Pistol: Factory Springfield 1911-A1 Loaded Black'n'Stainless
Barrel: Storm Lake "Drop-In" Threaded .578-28tpi (unramped)
Link Kit: Nighthawk Custom #1-5 with 2 pins.
The stock SA bushing fits the barrel very well, the hood is nearly perfect fit, and the barrel slides into the frame snug but easily and the lugs can fully engage.
All in all, it's about tight as one could expect a "drop-in" barrel to be... I'm pleased.
The radius between the lower lugs and link-pin hole is a consistent .095"
The hole-to-hole wall on the #3 pin is .093" and on the #4 it's .100" - so I'm thinking one of these should be it.
Starting with the #3, #4, then even the #5 I can feel a little vertical play when I press down on the breech and in full battery.
I was under the impression that installing a longer link will solve and vertical barrel play... just avoid riding the link too hard.
I tried the #2 and #1 link out of curiosity and found that the #2 reduced this vertical play and the #1 link eliminated it.
With the #1 link, the slide goes into full battery, does not bind when cycling, and has zero movement when I try to wiggle the barrel battery.
Is using a #1 link common?
Despite the facts that it seems to work well, what are the risks of using a #1 link?
How can I check for full/adequete lug engagement... should I worry about shearing my lugs with a short link?
If I bump up to the #3/#4 link as measurements seem to suggest at face-value... would vertical barrel play hurt anything?
I'm a rookie with 1911 technical stuff... so explanations with solutions/suggestoins would be very helpful.
One odd thing is that the #1 link wont move through the full range of motion installed on the barrel. it rotates from vertical to about 65-70deg.
It does not move the whole ~90 like most links I've seen.
Thanks guys!
Joe
Pistol: Factory Springfield 1911-A1 Loaded Black'n'Stainless
Barrel: Storm Lake "Drop-In" Threaded .578-28tpi (unramped)
Link Kit: Nighthawk Custom #1-5 with 2 pins.
The stock SA bushing fits the barrel very well, the hood is nearly perfect fit, and the barrel slides into the frame snug but easily and the lugs can fully engage.
All in all, it's about tight as one could expect a "drop-in" barrel to be... I'm pleased.
The radius between the lower lugs and link-pin hole is a consistent .095"
The hole-to-hole wall on the #3 pin is .093" and on the #4 it's .100" - so I'm thinking one of these should be it.
Starting with the #3, #4, then even the #5 I can feel a little vertical play when I press down on the breech and in full battery.
I was under the impression that installing a longer link will solve and vertical barrel play... just avoid riding the link too hard.
I tried the #2 and #1 link out of curiosity and found that the #2 reduced this vertical play and the #1 link eliminated it.
With the #1 link, the slide goes into full battery, does not bind when cycling, and has zero movement when I try to wiggle the barrel battery.
Is using a #1 link common?
Despite the facts that it seems to work well, what are the risks of using a #1 link?
How can I check for full/adequete lug engagement... should I worry about shearing my lugs with a short link?
If I bump up to the #3/#4 link as measurements seem to suggest at face-value... would vertical barrel play hurt anything?
I'm a rookie with 1911 technical stuff... so explanations with solutions/suggestoins would be very helpful.
One odd thing is that the #1 link wont move through the full range of motion installed on the barrel. it rotates from vertical to about 65-70deg.
It does not move the whole ~90 like most links I've seen.
Thanks guys!
Joe